What is this bolt and should I be worried?

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 14, 2010
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Was replacing the gas filter on my 2003 3.0 sterndrive last night and managed to drop the gaskets under the motor. Reaching around in the dark with my hand I pulled out a bolt of some sort. I'm the 2nd owner of this boat. I've had work done it by multiple different mechanics.

The boat essentially sat for 6 years with minimal use. I've become interested in engine repair (on my car initially) and have taken getting this boat back into tip top shape as a personal project. Last fall I got it running. It really only has 3 issues that I have to address: rusted pulleys that shred belts, shifting issues (hopefully just a cable adjustment), and a leak coming in around the bellows (going to do gimble/bellows repair in a couple of weeks).

Anyway- anyone have any idea what this is? Says 8.8 on the cap. Is it some miscellaneous dropped bolt or is it off the engine?

Thanks!
 

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cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 14, 2010
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Thanks! Is it broken? Should there be threads at the tip?
 

cchamp

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Jun 14, 2010
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Yep...oh damn. Going to be a beast. Any tips on how to remove the threaded portion so I can replace with a new bolt? Looks like I've got about 1mm of visible thread.

Also- where can I get a replacement bolt? SAEJ1171
 

ltklein

Cadet
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Sep 7, 2009
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Some added info - a starter bolt would require threads...does this look like it snapped off at the tip? If so, it either is left behind after the repair was made or ther remains is still in the hole.

The 8.8 is the metric indication of the strength of the bolt. If you need a replacement, you'll be looking for a metric bolt, not a standard. Don't confuse this with a Grade 8 bolt which is a standard (not metric) bolt with higher strength.

Here's a site with the type of info you need to select proper replacements:
 

ltklein

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Sep 7, 2009
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This just comes to mind and I refer to the greater knowledge of others....

My 3.0 is all standard fasteners. Should this bolt even be part of this motor?

Perhaps it snapped because it was the wrong replacement?

Someone set me straight on this...
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Someone set me straight on this...

first, does your starter have both fasteners in it - look
if yes, then you are good to go

if no, pull the starter (you may need to pull the motor)

if the rest of the bolt is stuck in the motor, you will have to either drill out with a left handed drill, or you may be able to weld a nut onto the remainder of the bolt to remove. This would be easier with the motor out of the boat.
 

scoflaw

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Jun 2, 2010
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962
Starter bolts are specific to the application and usually have a knurled shank for a tight fit. Get the right ones.

Probably going to be no joke getting that pc. out, but you risk breaking the block running with 1 bolt
 

cchamp

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Jun 14, 2010
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So...bolt goes in from the bottom up. I can view the threads of the top of the bolt from the top looking down. If I'm coming in from the top would I need a left handed drill bit or would a standard drill bit work? Is my logic completely off here? Will have to check to make sure 2nd bolt is in place, although I do believe it is.

This appears to be the replacement bolt:

https://www.amazon.com/BRAND-MERCURY-MERCRUISER-BOLT-10-805343/dp/B003903W6W#customerReviews
 

scoflaw

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Great news for you, that you can work from above. Depends on how rusty the exposed threads are. You'll probably need to chase it with a tap after you get it out. I'd drill and pick seeing he had a metric bolt jammed in there. It's not going to spin out easily
 

cchamp

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Jun 14, 2010
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Its got about 2mm exposed on top. I thing my first plan is going to be to try to notch it with a dremmel to remove with a flat head screwdriver.

Completely lucky I dropped the gas filter assembly and found it...would have had no idea. Say some prayers for me here. This may end up being a complete PITA.
 

JerryIrons

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May 27, 2010
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I just assume anytime I work on the boat it will end up being a PITA! Then on the rare occasions things work out just fine I get to be happily surprised!
 

nola mike

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shifting issues (hopefully just a cable adjustment), and a leak coming in around the bellows (going to do gimble/bellows repair in a couple of weeks).

Unrelated to question 1, but spoiler alert: you're going to need to replace the lower shift cable while you're in there doing the bellows, likely what's causing your shift issues. Also, is this AROUND the bellows (through the transom--potentially very bad) or through a ripped bellows (still could have a lot of collateral damage, but different animal)?
 

cchamp

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Jun 14, 2010
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To be honest I'm not sure. I only had it on the water for one weekend and the water started coming in on the last day, late at night. I could see a pencil thick stream of water entering the boat but couldn't identify its source definitively. Engine was hot and I couldn't get close. Based on the size/shape of the water coming in I assumed it was the shift cable bellow.

This weekend I pulled the boat into the garage to begin fixing all of its issues. First I'm doing the rusted pulleys (sanding/painting), replacing alternator, replacing both belts. Then I was going to attack the leak. Boat has been essentially ignored for nearly a decade so I'm assuming I just need to do all the common maintenance that one would do over that time. Impeller etc.

Engine is clean and it only has around 100 hours on it. I think its worth the work.

What should I look for in terms of collateral damage for each scenario?
 
Last edited:

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I use a tub of oxalic acid and simply throw parts in it for a week, then rinse, neutralize, dry and spray.
 

cchamp

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Jun 14, 2010
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If I could get the pulleys off, I'd do the same thing. HAHA.
 

sogood

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May 11, 2016
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As to collateral damage caused by a water leak, the transom would be high on the list. If you have water coming into the boat, then possibly it was seeping in for a while before finally making its way inside, enough to be noticed. Although a sudden failure of the bellows might just be the cause. Either way I'd be looking at the transom, doing the usual "drill" test to check it's worthiness. I'm posting the progress on my transom and stringer replacement in the " A snowball effect" thread in the restorations forum, and it shows how bad things can get beneath the fibreglass. If you intend keeping this boat, it would be well worth looking into.

Also, as mentioned, shift cable issues, due to corrosion, is another side effect of water ingress. Best of luck with it.
 

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 14, 2010
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Thanks for the info. Given the suddeness of the onset here (fine all weekend, then leak begins) I'm hoping the transom is unlikely. I'll definitely check out your post. I take it the shift cable is a tough repair?

Random question re: the starter. Looking around I did not see a brace/bracket for it. Should this model have one? Is that the issue? If so, where does it go?
 
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