What is the value of this motor?

[Scott Danforth]

put a bolt in the back of the head and use the lift lug in the front.

 

[Luposian]

Ok, a church friend of ours showed me where the 2nd lifting lug was. Totally did not see it. Weird.

Now, are any of the bolts I’m seeing, in the pics I posted, the ones I need to remove? Or are they somewhere else I’m not seeing?

 

[Scott Danforth]

see post #19

 

[Luposian]

I see two bolts (one in each picture). Are those the ones I undo? Are there only two bolts holding the engine to the transom or whatever? I’m having difficulty figuring out what I’m looking at/for.

 

[achris]

Nope.... Down here...



One on each side... Like this on the port side...



Chris.....

 

[achris]

Requires a 3/4" socket on a couple of long extensions... But yes, drive off first... Then....

Disconnect battery cable
Disconnect fuel line
Disconnect throttle cable
Disconnect main harness plug
Disconnect water hose from transom
Loosen exhaust tube hose clamps
Remove front mount lag bolts
Remove rear mount bolts
Lift engine

 

[Luposian]

Ok, NOW I get it! I was so close, if it were a snake, it would've bitten me! :-D The rear mounting (A-frame type thing; I think of it as the rear... it's the end NOT facing the stern drive) is not bolted down at all to the wood stringer block whatever. So all I need to do is uncouple everything tied directly to the engine and then undo those last two bolts and the engine should come free? Yay! Now, just gotta wait for it to stop snowing and for all the snow to melt and for it to not rain nor snow for a couple days (and preferrably be nice and sunny!). I got the engine hoist ($249 @ O'Reilly Auto), so now just need to remove the stern drive (I unbolted the two shock absorber type things on the sides), so only the 6 (3 per side) vertical bolts to remove (they weren't hard to loosen, thankfully) and then I just pull the unit out and stick it in my workshop...

 

[achris]

Drive MUST be in forward gear to remove it ..

Front mount is just the 2 lag bolts holding it to the floor/hull...

 

[Luposian]

If it isn’t, how will I know? The drive won’t come loose? How do I put it into forward gear if it isn’t already? Can it be done manually? I see the throttle control, the instrument panel with steering wheel, some weird up/up/in/out button panel, and a bunch of old gauges for RPM and MPH and such. All the engine wiring is cut and I’ve started decoupling the engine (hoses and what not).

 

[Luposian]

The prop only turns to the left (counter-clockwise) and will not turn to the right. Does that indicate it being in “forward” gear?

 

[Luposian]

According to a video I watched, clockwise is forward. So, question is, how do I get it into forward?

 

[TyeeMan]

If your throttle control cable and shift cables are all intact, push your throttle control towards the dash/steering wheel. That's forward.
If the drive is not in forward you will damage the the thing on the drive that connects with the shift cable. Sorry, drawing a blank, can't think of the name of the part.

If no cables are connected to the throttle control you can still shift into forward at the engine.

Watch Chris's video on removing an Alpha drive.

 

[Luposian]

Here’s a pic of my throttle (I assume). What are the different parts on it? There’s a button thing in the lower left corner. There’s a rocker switch on the thumb area and there’s another push button on the top. Do I need to push in the top button thing (a type of clutch?) to push the throttle lever forward or...? What do you use for throttle (speed)? This boat and boat controls are totally new to me.

 

[fishrdan]

The throttle is in reverse, straight up is neutral, forward is, well..... forward.

That's a newer remote control, so at least that's something good on the boat. It operates both the gear selection, and throttle. 1/4 to 1/3 forward drops it into forward gear, then the remaining travel is for throttle. Same for reverse, in the other direction

 

[Luposian]

But do I need to push the button on to

 

[Luposian]

Aw, poop deck! Hit something by accident again and no way to edit/delete my post. Bah!

But I was asking, do I need to push the button on top, to engage gear shifting? Or is that only to get past neutral? I think the rocker switch in the thumb area is for tilt/trim? Still don’t know what that button in the lower left corner is, tho.

 

[fishrdan]

I haven't used that remote control, but suspect you have to press the "thumb button" to get past neutral, going into forward of reverse. (My GenII Mercruiser remote control has a similar interlock.)

Rocker switch down the handle is for drive trim. Big button on the handle's pivot point is to get the remote control into throttle only, to warm up the engine without the drive engaged into gear.

Button on lower left corner, probably dead-mans switch. Supposed to have a lanyard connected to the switch and driver, so if you fall overboard, the engine dies (instead of the boat circling back to run you over - multiple times... )

 

[Luposian]

Thank you so much for your informative response. Indeed, I pushed the lever forward and it stopped at the neutral position and would go no further. I pushed the top button, which “unlocked” the lever, so I could continue pushing it forward.

Now, for an observation:

When the throttle is in reverse, the prop makes a mild but noticeable “ratcheting” (clicking) noise going in the counter-clockwise direction. And it will not budge in the clockwise direction.

In neutral, the prop spins freely in both directions with no noise at all.

In forward, the prop makes the same “ratcheting” (clicking) noise going in the clockwise direction, and will not budge, going in the counter-clockwise direction.

Is this the way a properly functioning Mercruiser stern drive should operate?

Also, I assume this is a paired stern drive (designed to go with the Mercruiser 120 in the boat). What is it’s rated RPM (how fast is it rated to spin at top speed)? I’ll need that info for when(ever) I get an electric motor for it.

 

[achris]

That drive function is correct..
Don't spin the drive more than 6000rpm...

 

[Scott Danforth]

Stay under 5500 with an early drive