What is the best way to fix leaky rivets?

[crazy charlie]

THEY KEY IS TO ISOLATE AND TRY TO KEEP THE TWO FROM MAKING SOLID CONTACT.EXAMPLE...YOU ARE INSTALLING A CLEAT .TRY TO USE A NYLON/MARLON CLEAT AND PUT SILICONE RUBBER INTO THE HOLE BEING USED.THE HARDWARE OF CHOICE WILL BE STAINLESS ,SO A NYLON OR RUBBER WASHER BETWEEN THE STAINLESS WASHER AND THE ALUMINUM WILL ISOLATE THE METALS.ANYWHERE YOU CAN KEEP THE 2 DISSIMILAR METALS FROM MAKING CONTACT YOU SHOULD.

 

[GA_Boater]

Don't have to yell. We can hear you.

My 50 year old tin boat has factory installed hardware using SS for everything and not a single isolation washer. And no corrosion or or signs of electrolysis around any SS. Putting silicone in a hole before using SS is no guarantee because the bolt has to be perfectly centered and when tightening things move so the chance of SS touching AL is there. On the practical side, using SS in an aluminum boat is acceptable without going to extreme measures. Let's face it, even using AL hardware doesn't eliminate corrosion/electrolysis unless the exact metal formulation is used and there are many grades of AL.

We may have to agree to disagree.

 

[crazy charlie]

Sorry ,not yelling,too lazy to go back and take off caps..Lol What I have stated is fact ,not opinion.I have also stated from experience,not opinion.This post was about replacing leaky rivets,not about your hardware.If you want to challenge the laws of physics/chemistry facts then I am glad you are doing it with your boat and not mine.Charlie

 

[Chris1956]

Well, now that we are off-topic...Chrome-plated brass hardware is acceptable for fresh water usage, and looks to be less-reactive than SS for aluminum boats

 

[Redfred1]

My question is why do they use stainless steel bolts to mount the lower unit on outboards?

 

[crazy charlie]

Time for your own post Red.