What is normal engine operating temperature

[Fun Times]

I meant NO offense to any one here on Iboats as all have been great over there years.

No problem mr300z87, I do know you didn't mean anything negative, I just wanted to clear the air some to avoid discouragement to any of the members from participating is all as I see trying to help out here as more of a team effort due to the high number of topics this forum receives.

I have a Bravo 1 drive, external belt driven water pump so no water pocket issue.

:redface: at one point I knew you had a Bravo drive...... Then I started thinking of other possibilities and the water pocket cover came to mind when I recalled you having 5.7l that seemed in my mind more common to have an Alpha vs the Bravo drive.:doh: Sorry if there was any confusion to anyone following along.

 

[mr300z87]

All good FT. So we went on this morning and I ran her harder than I ever had 4500 RPM almost 50 MPH I think, for as long as I could, to be honest it was really scary . Gauge read about 170, we slowed down because of some wakes and took a reading with the gun, 163 degrees at the thermostat housing and exhaust elbows were about 90ish (don't remember the exact temp) We then ran back to the no wake zone 1.5 miles at 3500 rpms with the same reading as above. Once at no wake speed the temp dropped back at around 140 degrees. BTW the ambient temp was 82 with low humidity and 75 degree water temps also the dog house was off. looks like my gauge is close to accurate -5 degrees or so off. So I am thinking I am OK. One thing though the exhaust manifolds were a little hotter than I thought they would be,190 degrees after our high speed run but they cooled down some at no wake speed. Never felt the old ones. LOL

My boat is sort of an anomaly, The original owner ordered the boat late in 1988 as an 1989 model and he insisted on wanting a Bravo drive which were brand new at the time. Merc only offerd the 5.7L with a 2:1 ratio Bravo 2 drive. So some how my Invader V210 20 ft cuddy was originally equipped with a 5.7L B2 combination. To make this work a couple inches were cut off the bottom skeg. Believe it or not I have original purchase documentation which was given to me by the 2nd owner of 17 years who I bought it from.

The B2 has some issues going in to forward (which I posted her a few yrs ago) and it really did not belong on my 21 ft. So I acquired a B1 drive and installed it and have been ever since.

Look forward to hearing your input. Have a great night

 

[Fun Times]

Well your testing is now complete with seemly good temperature numbers reported this time out....So the engine receives a passing grade.

Nothing to far out of the norm to see 163 with your designed thermostat after a good run then for it to drop back down to the 140 range specially with 75* water temps is good. I read another topic today that with the older designed T/housing they mentioned theirs gets to as high as 160 as well.

The Dry Joint exhaust manifolds do tend to run hotter down next to the engine vs some of the non dry joints. I've seen them in the 190* range as well lately so you're good there as well.
Well being an late 1988 model year on a cubby, at 50 MPH you have a little small block sleeper there under your throttle hand.

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Enjoy this years boating season.

 

[mr300z87]

Thanks for all your input FT. My wife and I are headed out for some rest and relaxation today. Looks to be another beautiful day here at the Jersey shore. Probably won't see anywhere near 50 mph today, just some normal cruising speeds. Hope all have a great day.

 

[mr300z87]

Interesting observation today,we went out to our close to home tie up spot in Silver Bay all was good normal operating temps as above but when we left a couple hours later we were pulling away and I noticed my just above idle temp was slightly higher than the way out. I also noticed that my volt gauge was lower than normal because I left the bilge blower on. As soon as I turned the blower off the volt gauge went up to normal and the temp gauge went back to its normal temp. This got me to thinking the highest temps I have seen have been coming when it is almost dark with my running lights on and dash lit up. Next time out I am going observer the gauge and turn light off when close to the dock. BTW V gauge never showed less than 12 V. Next trip to the boat I will bring my volt meter to take some readings and then clean some connections going to the dash. Back to the grind tomorrow then the following week vacation in Ocean City NJ with out the boat though :grumpy::grumpy:. Enjoy whats left of the weekend.

 

[mr300z87]

Hi all, not sure if I should post here or start a new thread with my question, but it is kind of related. Just pulled cover off the boat today and with spring like days coming our way I am starting to plan my pre season maintenance. One of the thing I want to do this year is replace the thermostat. So my question is 140 or 160 degree? My engine has a 140 per the original set up. Now as stated in my thread I am running newer dry joint exhaust but still the older style cooling system 2 thermostat housing. I originally planned to just by another 140 but my research showed that the newer dry joint engines with the newer style housing all run 160s. So which to buy? I look forward to hearing all your thoughts.

I have been working to hard the last 6 months I am sooooooo looking forward to get out on the water soon and with my daughter not playing soccer this spring it leaves me more time for boating.

Have a great night.

Mike

 

[Bondo]

So my question is 140 or 160 degree?

Ayuh,.... I believe it's a 140? in the brine, 'n the 160? in freshwater,....

 

[mr300z87]

Thanks for the reply, I'll stick with the 140 like is in there. We boat in salty Barnegat Bay. Getting anxious!!! :lol::lol: