What do these 2 rubber hoses go to?

[Alumarine]

It's possible that if it had points there might be a window on top of the grey pulley to access them. But maybe not.

 

[hogluvr]

Yeah there’s nothing like that. I’ll try kicking her tonight when it gets dark (the motor)

 

[hogluvr]

No luck, no spark

 

[Alumarine]

No luck, no spark

Did you take the top cover off the grey pulley (if possible) to see if there's points under it?

 

[Alumarine]

It also could be the neutral safety switch or the stop button that's causing trouble.

 

[hogluvr]

You were right, there was a rubber cover on top of the pulley that exposes the points and condenser through a little window in the pulley itself. Points look nice and clean, I can’t find anything in the manual I downloaded as far as a setting though. I disconnected the stop button and still no luck, I don’t see any kind of a switch off the transmission shifter that would indicate a neutral safety switch.

 

[Alumarine]

Gap should be .012" - .016"
How did you check for spark? If you used some sort of spark tester that probably won't work. You have to make sure the plug is well grounded and check for spark across the electrodes in a dark place.

If you have a multimeter you can test the condensor. This test isn't definitive but if you don't get a reading it probably means the condensor is shot.

How To Check a Condenser on a Points Ignition

I get asked this all the time. I have a condenser tester but I do it daily. This will work for you. This is for an analog meter but a digital works--you will see the voltage spike. Hope this helps 1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or...

www.forabodiesonly.com

 

[km1125]

And when you're checking for spark then BOTH plugs need to be "in-circuit" or you need to simulate them being in-circuit.

Current/Voltage comes out one side of the coil and needs to get back to the other side of the coil to create a spark. How that works when the engine is working correctly is that the current/voltage goes to one sparkplug, jumps the gap, then goes through the cylinder head to the OTHER spark plug, jumps that gap, then back to the coil. If you remove both spark plug wires and try to individually test for spark on each, it WILL FAIL even with a good ignition system. If you leave the one spark plug in the head with the wire connected to it, then you can check the other wire "to ground" and it should work OK if everything is operating correctly.

 

[hogluvr]

Did some messing around today, think the condenser is bad. And they are obsolete so good luck finding one

 

[Alumarine]

Did some messing around today, think the condenser is bad. And they are obsolete so good luck finding one

The spec for that condenser .24μF (microfarad)
If you can find one close to that and get it to fit, it should work.

 

[hogluvr]

I ordered a capacitance meter to make sure this thing is dead, and found a .24 microfarad condenser on Rock Auto, hopefully this will cure things. And checked the gap on the points, it was too toght so I’ll adjust when i put it back together. Thanks for your help, I will post an update

 

[flashback]

be sure your valve timing is correct as well. it's easy to check and unfortunately easy to screw it up if someone has replaced the belt and not timed it proper.

 

[hogluvr]

I’ll have to check that as well since I had to take the belt off and remove the pulley to get to the consdenser, thanks for bringing that to my attention!

 

[hogluvr]

Well my bad, condenser is good! Just got the capacitance meter and it is right there at 24-25 micro farad. I guess the next thing to check would be the coil?

 

[hogluvr]

So I’m trying to make sure this thing is in time. The grainy pdf manual that is hard to read says when the marks line up on the flywheel and the pulley the points should barely start to open. First, it’s hard to watch them line up when one of the supports for the pull start is in the way. Second, the flywheel has 2 marks, one marked F and the other marked T? From the best I can tell the points start to open up when the dot on the pulley is lining up with the T mark on the flywheel, does this sound right? If so how do I know when to check the gap on the points? Nothing in the manual and the cam that the points actual ride on is on the underside of the pulley, I only have access to the points for a shirt time thru the window in the pulley. This thing is complicated and simple at the same time!

 

[hogluvr]

It’s alive! It’s alive! Decided to set the points to the correct setting and try again, had to be coaxed for a bit but she’s finally running! Couldn’t run her very long because I don’t have a set of muffs, but sounds great! Thanks again for all your help and patience!

 

[Alumarine]

Glad you got it going.
Muffs might be hard to find for that, which is why I use a tub or barrel.
Chances are the carb will need to be dismantled and cleaned.

 

[hogluvr]

Yeah I noticed the intakes look way different from what I’m used to seeing, and I obviously haven’t seen a lot! Might have to look into a barrel, would like to here her run for a while before I take her out

 

[tphoyt]

I use a big trash can that I installed a ball valve in the bottom of to make draining a breeze.
It only takes a few seconds to burn up a dry impeller. Hope your okay.
When the last time it was changed? Now may be a good time.

 

[hogluvr]

I do remember reading that they should be replaced if they have been stored for a while. Should I go OEM or would aftermarket be ok? I only ran the motor maybe 10-15 seconds at a time at most, hope that didn’t screw anything up!