Water Pump

58 EvinRude

Cadet
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
7
Ok here It is...Me and My father need to put a new water pump on a 58' Evinrude 7.5hp 7524 Fleetwin and I cant afford to take to marina And I kept hearing it isnt hard to change but we arent fimiliar with small boat motors and I Cant seem to find nothing on the internet along the lines of instructions or directions to replace What Should I Do.
 

jbo_c

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
41
Re: Water Pump

It's cake. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago and even changed out my whole lower unit too. Never even seen anybody work on one before.

Search for "duckworks Max pump". You should pull up articles on a website called Duckworks by a guy named Max Wawrziniak. He writes exclusively about old outboards just for people like me and you. There's at least one article there if not two.

He's even got a book out that is basically a collection of these articles called "Cheap Outboards". It's already saved me the cost of ten books. I highly recommend it for anyone with an older outboard.

Jbo
 

58 EvinRude

Cadet
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
7
Re: Water Pump

I went to his web site didnt find nothing At All Maybe i was lookin wrong little more help would be nice Thanks, "If Anyone Knows How to Change With just a Few Overall instrutions not with details and you can Post would be Wonderful if Possiable...?!?
 

MrGED05

Seaman
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
50
Re: Water Pump

Sir,
Though I'm not familiar with your particular engine, its age and style are common. These general guidelines might help you. Remove the foot of the outboard. The foot is the bottom unit that houses the propeller and transmission. Inside, on the driveshaft you'll find a round seal around the driveshaft leading into a housing at the top and inside the foot itself. That housing is the water pump. Open up the housing, inside you'll find a "fan" of flexible plastic/rubber contained in an eccentric hollow. The fan is called the impeller. Impellers are "consumable" parts, they need to be replaced every couple of years. The impeller is keyed to the drive with a woodruff key fitting into two slots, one slot in the impeller and one in the drive. Carefully pry off and out, the old, non-functional impeller. SAVE the key, they're a bit harder to find. Clean the driveshaft with solvent and a wire brush to make installing the new impeller easier. Flush away the solvent with soapy water, and rinse, you don't want it to settle into degradeable seals or gaskets. Check that all intake and exhause passages of the coolant flow are clear of obstructions. Pieces or even whole vanes can find their way into the passages and block them.
Since so many are replaced each year, your local auto parts store that has a "marine" catalogue is likely to carry the part. Take your old impeller with you and make sure that the new part has the same internal diameter, that the key fits it, that the length and heights of the vanes match.
If there is a gasket, replace, don't re-use it. Sheet gasket material will work if carefully traced and cut from the original. I put a VERY thin coat of "Forma-Gasket" marine (blue) sealer on both surfaces, that hasn't yet caused me a problem. Insert the key, the new impeller and button the unit back up again. Pay special attention that the driveshaft, the water passages and the bolts are correctly aligned. Bumping, slightly rotating, the flywheel may help with that. The vanes on the impeller will need to be compressed to fit into the hollow housing, don't force them as they'll easily tear. I compress mine with carpet thread, it can be readily snipped and removed after installation.
 

freddyray21

Commander
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
2,460
Re: Water Pump

okay here is goes. You have to first disconnect the shift linkage. In order to do that you need to pull the powerhead. (not so fast it's not hard) you will find about 7-8 slotted screws underneath the power head. Take them out and the power head lifts right off. If you have your motor on a stand you can just turn the powerhead sideways and let it sit there. Otherwise unhook the fuel line and you can sit in on a bench. The shift linkage unhooks using a 3/8 socket. There will be two nuts to undo. There is also a carbon seal, washer and spring assembly on the drive shaft. Take it off, but look at what order it came off in as it has to go back on. You really should replace the seal while you are there. The foot unbolts. I think there are four 7/16 bolts and the entire thing will drop out. MrGED05 pretty much as the rest of it.
 

Ro-Tator

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
45
Re: Water Pump

I agree with the last two posts. Having replaced the impeller several times on my '58, i can say that the instructions above are awesome.

Good luck with the motor. it's a beauty
 

jbo_c

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
41
Re: Water Pump

Here's a link(if it works). Start there.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index7.htm

You won't get any simpler for these motors. Get the book mentioned above. I never touched a motor of ANY kind before. Using just this book, I've rebuilt the carb, changed the lower unit, replace the impeller, and refurbished the entire ignition system on my 1963 40hp.

Jbo
 

wbeaton

Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
2,332
Re: Water Pump

That's a good article, but its not for your motor. Use the same procedure as outlined for the 5.5 hp at the following website.

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...ower Unit and Replace Impeller Water Pump.htm

Yes, you have to take off the powerhead to disconnect the shift linkage, but its not hard at all. There is also a cork washer and o-ring on top of the driveshaft. They are part of the lower gearcase seal. You need to replace them too.
 
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