Water leak through shift cable

[donnyskz1]

I have a 2001 mercruiser 4.3 serial number is unknown due to engine being changed and the number that is stamped on the flame arrestor cover is faded out to where it cannot be read. The serial number for the outdrive is OL783082. The transom serial number is OL886317. I keep having water drip through the shift cable onto the valve cover. I have tried everything I can think of to try and stop the leak. I have pulled the outdrive and replaced the large oring, the water jacket oring and the 3 orings on the U joint shaft. I have replaced the upper shift shaft bushings and seals where the upper shift shaft goes through the bell housing. I have used quicksilver for all the replacement parts except for the shift cable. The shift cable is Sierra. The shift cable was replaced about a year ago with a new bellow. I cannot seem to find anything wrong inside of the bell housing. I also cannot find anything anything lodged or broken in the exhaust tube or bellow area. I do not know if I were to change all of the bellows if that would help. I have noticed some cracking on the inside of the u joint bellow so it will probably be time to change then soon. When I do replace the bellows I will be using OE bellows from mercruiser. Is it possible there could be a crack in the bell housing causing water to get into the area where the shift cable is in the bell housing.

Any ideas or suggestion on why I am still having water come through the shift cable or where the water can be coming from? Any way I can figure out what the serial number of the engine is supposed to be based to the serial number of the outdrive?

 

[achris]

A few things spring to mind.

1.Were the threads on the drive end of the shift cable sealed (with thread sealer) when the cable was installed? (Water could be leaking in through the threads.)

2. Have you checked the cable outer for damage that would allow water in?

3. Have you checked the cable slide cavity in the drive to make sure the water isn't coming through there somehow?

4. Serial number. Have you looked for a serial number plate near the stater motor?

Chris........

 

[donnyskz1]

I can not answer the question about the dealer on the drive end of the cable as I had the cable replaced by a local service center but not at mercruiser. I would hope that they installed the cable correctly and used the correct sealer. Is it possible for the water to come through the drive end of the cable when the boat is only running on the muffs in the driveway at the house. I have looked at the cable outer sheild and have found no damage. I have not checked the slide cavity.

Should I consider replacing the cable again and using an OE cable. The only way I know to check for water coming through the cable jacket is after everything is put back together and running the engine. Is there another way to check before everything is put back together..

When I pulled the old engine I searched everywhere on the block for a mercruiser tag and could not find one anywhere. I am guessing that the engine was changed before I got the boat and the previous owner opted not to say anything or they did not know it was changed.

 

[Bt Doctur]

unless there is a corroded hole in the housing the most likely suspect is a dislodged water inlet O ring

 

[donnyskz1]

When I install the oring on for the water inlet and the large oring for the shaft I always use adhesive on the orings and let them sit for about 30 minutes before I slide the outdrive back in place. Everytime I pull the outdrive to try and look for the leak I install the new orings that are in the package with a new gasket.

Would it be possible that water is still coming through the upper shift shaft seals. I did notice that the date code on the seal package showed the seals were made in 2002. When I asked about that at the dealer they told me that even though the seals were made in 2002 that they should still be in good shape.

 

[Rick Stephens]

That o-ring is stable sitting in a package. Sunlight is about the only thing that will make it decay. I agree with Bt Doc that the first thought is the o-ring isn't sealing. That's the only place where water comes through under pressure enough to force it up the shift cable housing around the core. Worth the 15 minutes to take a look at it anyway.

Rick

 

[donnyskz1]

Is there a special way to install the seals. I read that the springs are to face up toward the bellows. Should the seals be installed from the bottom of the hole and pushed up inn the bell housing or from the top of the hole down and press into the housing. Or does it matter which way. I put the seals in from the top of the bell housing and tapped them down lightly using a socket.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Those seals are designed where both face the same way and keep water out, so the spring/lip side faces down,

All newer replacement bushings use a much larger seal since the old style that could be installed from the top was too small to last. Old version looks like the bottom one, new style the top one (pictures are strangely not to scale). While you are doing this job, recommend you update to the new style. Sounds like you got the seals in the wrong direction, so need to come out anyway.

 

[donnyskz1]

The bushing set I installed is what is in the bottom picture. I did install the seals the way it looks in the picture. Basically the open side of the bushing with the spring is facing up. I will pull the outdrive again to look at the seals or remove and replace the seals again. I also coated the seals with grease before I installed them in the hole. Should I put the top brass bushing in first and then push the seals in from the bottom?

 

[Rick Stephens]

Spring faces down.

 

[donnyskz1]

Do you think I can take the use the same ones again and flip them over to where the springs face down or should I install a new set of seals. I just put these seals in last week. I do have another set of new seals I can install. I like to buy small parts like this 2 sets at a time in case I mess up the first set I can start over and not have to wait until i can make back to the dealer to buy the part again.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Do you think I can take the use the same ones again and flip them over to where the springs face down or should I install a new set of seals. I just put these seals in last week. I do have another set of new seals I can install. I like to buy small parts like this 2 sets at a time in case I mess up the first set I can start over and not have to wait until i can make back to the dealer to buy the part again.

If they come out clean, no problemo.

 

[donnyskz1]

I installed 2 new seals with the springs facing down. I was finally about to start the boat today. After a few minutes of the engine running saw water dripping through the cable again. I also installed all new orings and outdrive gasket since it all comes with the kit. Now I am at a complete loss on how the water is still coming through the cable.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I installed 2 new seals with the springs facing down. I was finally about to start the boat today. After a few minutes of the engine running saw water dripping through the cable again. I also installed all new orings and outdrive gasket since it all comes with the kit. Now I am at a complete loss on how the water is still coming through the cable.

On muffs or floating?

 

[donnyskz1]

On muffs

 

[Rick Stephens]

If there isn't a crack. And the water passage o-ring is in place and the surrounding aluminum isn't corroded away, then your impeller is shot allowing the hose to put full pressure on the o-ring and forcing past it. Normally a good impeller will keep water from the hose from going past it. Literally the only place on muffs the shift cable can get water from is the water passage. A bad o-ring position, a bad seat or a crack in the housing, or a bad impeller is allowing full hose pressure past the pump.