Water in the oil...

[Bravo]

I've got a '69 Wellcraft that I scored super cheap the other day. It's powered by a 160 L6 Mercruiser. I figured it might be worth a try to see if it ran, and it does, but I'm getting a lot of water in the oil. I did find 2 cracks in the manifold, but I can't seem to see anything wrong with the block itself... I kinda hoped it might be just a lot of condensation from sitting up several years, but this is too much water. I let the oil drain overnight, removed the filter and gave it a few spins over (ignition disabled) to see if it would puke any more chocolate milk out, but I heard instead some water dripping in the oil pan, then running out the drain hole. I pulled off the manifold to check the block under it further, and found nothing. So, then I pulled off the head to check the cylinders for cracks and see what ever else I could find. Nothing out of the ordinary... I'm kinda stumped here. Is there anything else I can to do to find an answer? There might have been a internal leak from the head gasket, but I don't see anything telling me that. Any ideas from the MerCruiser Gurus?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Water in the oil...

Fill the block up and see if it holds water.a head gasket shouldnt let that much water get by.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Water in the oil...

Is there anything else I can to do to find an answer?

Ayuh,... Pull the motor,.. Turn it upside-down,+ pull the Pan,...
You'll be lookin' at the Crack from that point of view....
It'll be on the side opposite the cam...

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

I'm gonna try both of these tests to see what I can find. Well, if it is cracked then a good drive and decent trailer is worth the $100 I paid for it all. Ill keep you posted.

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

I've now got the block full of water. I really hope it stays at the current level, and it might, BUT, I also have to take into consideration the water surface tension. I'd use acetone, but that would get a bit pricey. It wasn't until the oil was out of the motor and I kicked it over 2 or 3 times that I heard water dripping into the oil pan, then running out the drain hole. (see previous posts) That would have taken compression to force it through a tiny crack if there is one. I'm sitting here playing everything through my mind as it happened, and I also remembered something.... When i spun it over those last few times, it had a hard time turning the engine over. At the time, I chalked it up to a crusty old starter as the battery used was less than 6 months old and used in my suburban. It has plenty of CCA as well, (Enough to start a 454) and was/is fully charged. I'm wondering if it may have been due to a semi hydro lock, if there is such a thing. Hell, maybe I'm just too hopeful. I think I'll still pull the rest of the motor out cause I wanna drop the oil pan to clean as much goo outta the block as I can. Gives me an excuse to look for more internal cracks that I don't wanna find. The head already got soaked in the best degreaser around (oven cleaner) and pressure washed after buffing off all the old gasket residue. I shot it with compressed air and some W/D 40 in all the right places. Tomorrow brings out a stiff magnifier glass and a wicked spot light to look for cracks in the combustion chamber and anywhere else for that matter. Keep your fingers crossed that its simple. BTW, what would be a decent price to pay for a new or good used manifold?

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

Well, so far the water level has not dropped...

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Water in the oil...

The most reliable way to check a block for cracks is to use compressed air.

The block should pressure up to 15 PSI or so and hold it...

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

So how do I do that? It makes sense though.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Water in the oil...

You'll need a compressor, some "home-depot" plumbing fittings, and a simple 0-15psi gage etc....

You cover all the cooling system connections on the block and pump in some compressed air. The head, water (circulating) pump and t-stat housing must still be on the engine and the exhaust/intake(I-6) manifold must be removed or isolated.

There's more detailed instructions in the "Adults-Only" sticky message above in the main forum.

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

Well Bond-O, you were right. Dangit. It was exactly where you said it was. I put the thing on an engine stand, flipped it over and pulled the pan. I took a little brake clean, sprayed the suspect area down and saw some rust trails. We all know what that means. Sure enough I found a crack. Sigh. Now my question is this. Are the engine blocks the same in a auto/truck? I thought about getting one from a salvage yard and swapping all my internals into it. Will that work?

 

[Dakota47]

Re: Water in the oil...

Truck motor will work.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Water in the oil...

just make sure it has the casting for the front mount

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

In other words, something from about the same year? Ill be sure to look.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Water in the oil...

No, a block that has that same casting to accept the front mount.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Water in the oil...

Well Bond-O, you were right. Dangit.

Ayuh,.... Sorry to hear that,... Being Right, Ain't always a Good thing I guess....

The block casting you need has a little iron boss on the foreward starboard corner with a couple of drillings in it for the front motor mount...
Many automotive/ truck blocks do Not have that boss,... Be careful,+ observent...

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

Ill be sure to take a pic before I go scouting around. Thanks for your help and knowledge.

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

BTW, don't strangle me for asking, but is it possible to weld a block if its preheated and done slowly? I know cast iron is a booger to weld anyway, but it can be done. Just don't know about an engine block. I'm only wondering in case I can't find a proper block at a salvage yard. I've always understood what "winterizing" means, and have never had to do this before, LOL!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Water in the oil...

BTW, don't strangle me for asking, but is it possible to weld a block if its preheated and done slowly? I know cast iron is a booger to weld anyway, but it can be done. Just don't know about an engine block. I'm only wondering in case I can't find a proper block at a salvage yard. I've always understood what "winterizing" means, and have never had to do this before, LOL!

Blocks are welded all the time but you have to bring the block up to a very high temp and it must be held there. Most of us don't have the facilities to do that!


I wouldn't do it anyway on an I-6. Wrecking yards have them everywhere.


When I had my previous boat and was thinking about replacing the 150 Mercruiser (230 cu-in 6) I went down the road to a pickup wrecking yard and found no less than (13) 230/250/292 complete engines!

I think only 4 or 5 of them had the correct block mount points to match my 230 CU-IN engine though.

GM made a "zillion" of them. You should have NO PROBLEM finding a complete engine. Just get one that doesn't have the "integral " head. You'll be able to use your head anyway (pun intended!)


These guys have a LOT of info on inline engines!! http://www.inliners.org/


Cheers,


Rick

 

[Bravo]

Re: Water in the oil...

just thought I'd throw up a couple of pics of the carnage. This is exactly where Bond-O said it was. Looking down into the engine from the oil pan side. Look for the rust trails and the crack is where the trails stop. I'm only thinking of welding as a very last resort.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Water in the oil...

Ayuh,... Have Fun, but it don't work,... Ya need a block, minimum...