Water in Riser

[dozerII]

Okay another question, what is the secret to changing the shutters without pulling the motor? The rivets are in a position that even if I can get them out I can't put new ones in.

 

[dozerII]

Bump

 

[Alumarine]

Okay another question, what is the secret to changing the shutters without pulling the motor? The rivets are in a position that even if I can get them out I can't put new ones in.

Here's how I changed them on my glastron. I might have had better access.

I ground the rivets off of only ONE of the mounting brackets and left the other intact. Then used machine screws to attach the bracket with the new shutter if that makes sense.

 

[dozerII]

Thanks Marc, that is what I will do, I really don't want to pull the motor. Looks like your set up is identical to mine.

 

[dozerII]

A little update on the motor and a question for all you real Mercruiser Guru's. We took the boat out today for it's first test run. I did the final adjustments, carb, timing idle. It ran extremely well, tons of power, and smooth, but it had a bad rattle that sounded like a rod or real bad detonation at about 1800 rpm. We ran around the lake for an hour and a half with no issues. No signs of water leaking from the welded crack in the block and the oil stayed clear. When we got back to the launch and loaded the boat, we pulled the drain plugs in case we get another spring freeze. and found a bunch of oil leaking down the port side of the block from behind the exhaust/intake manifold. When we got back home I pulled the manifold and found the source, between the head and the block. We then pulled the head and found the gasket was blown out on the port side of 3 and possibly 2. but we have bad damage to the pistons in 2 & 3. My question is would this damage be from water ingestion from the previous cracked manifold and riser?

 

[dozerII]

bump :bump:

 

[Scott Danforth]

that looks like detonation damage.

 

[Bondo]

that looks like detonation damage.

Ayuh,..... No doubt 'bout it,..... That was the rattlin' ya heard at 1800 rpms,... the motor eatin' itself,....

 

[dozerII]

Thanks Scott and Bondo, just trying to wrap my head around this, when I got the boat out to the lake I finished the tune up in the water, adjusted timing and carb. Timing was at 12 BTDC, I adjusted it to 4 BTDC then we took her for a spin. The damage to the two center pistons had to be there from the PO, so once this started is it something that will just continue to eat itself? As it stands the motor is scrap and we will need to find a replacement as I don't want to put money in a block that has been cracked and welded.

 

[Bondo]

Thanks Scott and Bondo, just trying to wrap my head around this, when I got the boat out to the lake I finished the tune up in the water, adjusted timing and carb. Timing was at 12 BTDC, I adjusted it to 4 BTDC then we took her for a spin. The damage to the two center pistons had to be there from the PO, so once this started is it something that will just continue to eat itself? As it stands the motor is scrap and we will need to find a replacement as I don't want to put money in a block that has been cracked and welded.

Ayuh,.... The damage to the pistons, started just before the head gasket Started to fail,.... They went together,...

Donno how much, happened when, but, yes, it would continue, 'n hasten as it goes,...
Advanced timin', 'n a Lean condition are the 2 leadin' causes,....
With ethanol, Lean get's #1 in my book,...

A Long block crate motor is the quickest way to the water,....
A rotten boat, with a solid motor is always a possibility, though ya might find that motor shaky,...
You'd wanta diagnose/ test/ survey the motor,...

 

[dozerII]

Ayuh,.... The damage to the pistons, started just before the head gasket Started to fail,.... They went together,...

Donno how much, happened when, but, yes, it would continue, 'n hasten as it goes,...
Advanced timin', 'n a Lean condition are the 2 leadin' causes,....
With ethanol, Lean get's #1 in my book,...

A Long block crate motor is the quickest way to the water,....
A rotten boat, with a solid motor is always a possibility, though ya might find that motor shaky,...
You'd wanta diagnose/ test/ survey the motor,...

Thanks Bondo, We only use #1 premium but I don't know what the PO used. Yep we are looking for a crate motor for her, there aren't any decent donor possibilities up here. Hard to believe how well she ran like that.

 

[dozerII]

Okay I have some more questions for you guys, thanks in advance. When we had the boat out for the test run, once I had the tune up all done I put the boat in reverse and it died. I another thread I had that I can't seem to find I got advice on the shift cable adjustment, (it is New) to get the drive to go all the way into reverse I had to move the slotted bolt almost all the way up. The next time I put it in reverse I just got in gear and didn't give it any throttle and it stayed running, but as soon as I would give it throttle it would die. I ended up disconnecting the ground wire on the shift interrupt for the test run and we had no problems with even getting it out of gear. What are you suggestions on this problem?

Next I have a new 3.0 engine coming from Michigan Motorz, it is coming with a 12.75 fly wheel , new coupler and the intake exhaust adapter plate and Delco EST ignition. I started reading the online instructions on the ignition and it says there are modifications that have to be done to the Shift Interrupt wiring for it to work, all they did was confuse me, I hate wiring. Can any one explain in simple terms?

Thanks again

 

[fishrdan]

as soon as I would give it throttle it would die.

modifications that have to be done to the Shift Interrupt wiring for it to work

If the shift interrupt switch is killing the engine (not carb or other issue), it sounds like the adjustment is "too far into reverse". I would go through the shift interrupt adjustments again.

Points ignition use ground for the shift interrupt switch and the EST uses +12V for the shift interrupt switch.
#1- Remove the ground wire from the shift interrupt switch.
#2- Where you removed the ground wire from, attach a wire that goes to the EST ignition coil's +12V (purple) wire.

The EST needs a full 12V (12.6V) and not the 9V that points ignition uses, so you will need to remove the resistance wire in the wire harness or just jumper around it the resistance wire.

 

[dozerII]

If the shift interrupt switch is killing the engine (not carb or other issue), it sounds like the adjustment is "too far into reverse". I would go through the shift interrupt adjustments again.

Points ignition use ground for the shift interrupt switch and the EST uses +12V for the shift interrupt switch.
#1- Remove the ground wire from the shift interrupt switch.
#2- Where you removed the ground wire from, attach a wire that goes to the EST ignition coil's +12V (purple) wire.

The EST needs a full 12V (12.6V) and not the 9V that points ignition uses, so you will need to remove the resistance wire in the wire harness or just jumper around it the resistance wire.

Thanks fishrdan

 

[Alumarine]

Thanks Marc, that is what I will do, I really don't want to pull the motor. Looks like your set up is identical to mine.

Ok, now it's my turn.
I want to check the flapper on my Sylvan and was wondering if you removed the fuel tank to get at yours?
There was a lot more room on the Glastron.

 

[dozerII]

Ok, now it's my turn.
I want to check the flapper on my Sylvan and was wondering if you removed the fuel tank to get at yours?
There was a lot more room on the Glastron.

No I didn't I used it to kinda lay on to work on the shutters.

 

[Alumarine]

No I didn't I used it to kinda lay on to work on the shutters.

Ok thanks, I'll give that a try,