Water in my lenses

[l008com]

Ok so 2 or 3 years ago, I bought new lights (2 brake lights, 2 amber markers) and a full wiring harness and I fully re-did my trailer. Including soldering all connections, greasing them, and heat shrinking. AND I did full ground wires, no grounding to body. I wanted to never have problems with the trailer wiring again.

And it works great. The lights work every time, they're super bright, theres no problems at all! . . . except one.

One of the brake lights has water in it. It still works perfectly, so I'm not sure if it's in a different compartment from the electronics or what. But the water has not worked its way out after a whole month. What should I do about this? I can't return it, I don't even remember where I bought them from. I could drill a tiny hole in them but would that just let even more water in next time I launch? Sometimes that trailer is under water for a while (10 minutes, maybe more on occasion).

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Some times the cheaper "waterproof" lights aint so waterproof. Make sure they are immersion rated and a major brand name, like Optronics.

 

[dingbat]

Make sure they are immersion rated..,,

IPX-7 or higher

 

[Scott Danforth]

Here is how most lights draw in water.

you are backing up to the ramp. the brake lights are on. the housing is getting warm. you dunk the trailer in cold water. the change in pressure internally from the drastic temperature plunge to the light housing will draw in water thru seals, etc. that normally will not leak.

on sealing gear boxes and actuators for immersion, we have to run a micro-bore tube thru a gland somewhere internal to the vessel with a vent.

 

[cyclops222]

I use only old light bulb units. Never a popped bulb or rusted socket.
I sealed everything with RTV silicone. No possible leaks or connections. Trailer is a 1980 for the little boat.

 

[Mad Dog 2]

I would drill a 1/4” hole at the lowest point you can see water behind the lens. (Keep the drill from going into far and best if the hole faces aft.) This will prevent water from freezing and splitting the lens.
If it’s fresh water you probably will not have any problems. This is a common solution for headlights the fog up or fill up with water.

 

[l008com]

I drilled a tiny hole, much smaller than 1/4". The water is slowly dripping out. This should work, it should all drip out eventually. And the hole is so small, and on the bottom, so it should be very hard for new water to get in through that hole next time the trailer is underwater.

That said, I still don't know how the water got in there in the first place. The level hasn't changed with months of sitting, or with the trailer being underwater again for 20 minutes. Who knows I guess.

 

[dingbat]

And the hole is so small, and on the bottom, so it should be very hard for new water to get in through that hole next time the trailer is underwater.

Unless hermetically sealed, the inside of the lamp assembly is at atmospheric pressure.

Submerging the housing below the water line increases pressure on the inside of the housing. With outside pressure exceeding that of the inside, you end up with the Manneken Pis….,,,in you housing.

 

[airshot]

Up until I went with LED lights, my old trailer lights were open on the bottom, when backed into water it trapped the air inside so no water would enter. Don't remember the brand but they were old. Square housing with an open bottom, worked great for many years, but over those years things corroded so moved on to the LED lights. As long as the upper part of the housing is sealed up tight, can't see where drilling a hole in the bottom would cause a problem at all. For water to enter, there must be a place for air to leak out..

 

[dingbat]

Up until I went with LED lights, my old trailer lights were open on the bottom, when backed into water it trapped the air inside so no water would enter. Don't remember the brand but they were old. Square housing with an open bottom, worked great for many years, but over those years things corroded so moved on to the LED lights.

I too played the game with "Diving bell" lights before LED came out.
Later versions even came out with the bulbs sealed in a seperated, plastic housing that fit inside the outer housing, Replaced the entire module when the bulb burned out.

I believe the lights I had where Peterson and or Blazer. If I got lucky, they lasted a season before the inside turned green with saltwater corrosion.

The hermetically sealed, (welded) IPX 7 rated lamps are the way to go.
Changed out the side and running lights with epoxy encapsulated LED as well. Very small and practicly indestructable.

As long as the upper part of the housing is sealed up tight, can't see where drilling a hole in the bottom would cause a problem at all. For water to enter, there must be a place for air to leak out..

Agree, but how did the water get in if there isn't already a hole?

 

[airshot]

I too played the game with "Diving bell" lights before LED came out.
Later versions even came out with the bulbs sealed in a seperated, plastic housing that fit inside the outer housing, Replaced the entire module when the bulb burned out.

I believe the lights I had where Peterson and or Blazer. If I got lucky, they lasted a season before the inside turned green with saltwater corrosion.

The hermetically sealed, (welded) IPX 7 rated lamps are the way to go.
Changed out the side and running lights with epoxy encapsulated LED as well. Very small and practicly indestructable.


Agree, but how did the water get in if there isn't already a hole?

Salt water changes everything....my results have always been in fresh water.
I did move to sealed LED years ago, no issues, no burned out bulbs and far brighter. As far as the posters lights, there probably is a small hole some where, typically where the wire comes in...those little seals fail quickly..