Water in cylinders

jdudgeon

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Sep 4, 2005
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Gentlemen,<br /><br />How does water get into the cylinder from the exhaust manifold? <br /><br />I have a '71 Mercruiser 140hp, 181ci. Last weekend, I overheated the motor to about 230F. I replaced the impeller this weekend, and tried to start the motor in the yard. It wouldn't fire at all, but cranked normally. I took out the plugs and did a compression test (150-180 psi on all cylinders), and noticed some water vapor spitting out the plug hole. Not much water, about 3 tablespoons or so (mostly on rear cylinder). <br /><br />After consulting this list, I removed the intake/exhaust manifold to look for cracks, gasket damage, etc., but found none. I did notice that the exhaust valve is lower than the water running through the manifold, separated only by a little rise between the manifold and exhaust port. When the manifold is full of water, what prevents it from filling the exhaust port and then the cylinder? <br /><br />I see that most here recommend replacing the manifold after overheating. Why would I do that? I don't see any obvious damage to the manifold or the exhaust riser, but can't understand what keeps the manifold cooling water out of the cylinders. Can someone explain why this would happen? My service manual doesn't cover this topic well. <br /><br />I did change the oil when I did the impeller, and didn't notice any water in it, but after an afternoon of cranking the motor in my yard, the dipstick shows a little water froth. Other than the flapper in the exhaust riser, is there any other moving parts on the exhaust side? Are there baffles between the exhaust port and water reservoir in the manifold? I don't see anything in there that looks like a baffle, but the boat is 35 years old, and it may have rusted away completely.<br /><br />Any advice you can offer would help me a lot.
 

Don S

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Aug 31, 2004
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62,321
Re: Water in cylinders

OLD manifolds corrode away over time. From rust.<br />That manifold has had raw water running around it since 71. Could also be the elbow/riser at the back of the manifold. The surfaces of the manifold and riser connection corrode away allowing water in.
 

TilliamWe

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Dec 21, 2004
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Re: Water in cylinders

It gets in exactly the way you have seen. The manifold fails internally (you can't see this), the cooling water goes into the exhaust runners, then when you turn the engine off, the water runs in through those open exhaust valves you mentioned.
 

jdudgeon

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Sep 4, 2005
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Re: Water in cylinders

Okay, based on your replies, and the motor's age, I will get a new manifold. Most of the vendors of manifolds say you should replace the exhaust riser with same manufacturer, at the same time. Is this justified? Other than flapper corrsion and rattling, what else goes wrong with the riser?<br /><br />Thanks again for your help
 

Haut Medoc

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Jun 29, 2004
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10,645
Re: Water in cylinders

The mating surfaces between the riser/manifold deteriorate, so sometimes even though you have a new riser, the manifold mating surface is bad & vice versa.....JK
 

Scaaty

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May 31, 2004
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Re: Water in cylinders

1971? Original motor? Went to 230F? Repower and start fresh..........everything need replacing.
 

f_inscreenname

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Aug 23, 2001
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2,591
Re: Water in cylinders

The riser is under the same principal as the manifold. A exhaust tube is surrounded by water to keep it cool. A outer tube to hold the water in. Like said before, the mating surfaces get screwed up (a good RTV could fix that in a pinch) but the main reason is failure of the inner exhaust tube due to corrosion or freeze cracks. The same exhaust and water goes through risers as does the manifolds. If one has failed the other will soon enough.
 

jdudgeon

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Re: Water in cylinders

Update on my manifold/riser/water problem,<br /><br />Despite the apocalyptic warning from Robby Gloom, I ordered a new manifold and riser, and gasket set. The riser and manifold are pretty rusty, and there is some rust flakes in the rear exhaust port wall. <br /><br />I have high hopes this gets me back to running condition. As I reported before, the compression on all cylinders is between 150-180 psi dry, and we have already done the impeller, water pump, and cleaned out the lower unit. I will do a seafoam treatment before we bolt everything back up.<br /><br />Should I backflush the lower unit to blast out any rust/sediment when I have the riser off? Any warnings or advice on how best to do this?<br /><br />Will keep posted of any success or failure.
 

Haut Medoc

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Jun 29, 2004
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10,645
Re: Water in cylinders

Running a hose down the "Y" pipe can't hurt....JK
 

rbezdon

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Jun 20, 2004
Messages
689
Re: Water in cylinders

change the engine oil too before you even try to run it. Any water in the oil is a bad thing. Change it sooner than later if possible and make sure you get all the water out. Remember, oil floats so the water is on the bottom of the crancase. Go the extra mile to get it out befor eputting the new. Sooner it is out the better
 

jdudgeon

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Sep 4, 2005
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Re: Water in cylinders

Update to the water in cylinder problem:<br /><br />We finally got all the parts together this past weekend, and installed the new manifold. We ended up replacing the manifold, riser, and bellow, and cleaning out the rust in the #4 exhaust port and the exhaust tube below the bellow. The water shutter in the exhaust was nonexistent, with only the stainless pivot bar remaining. We tried to get a new shutter, but couldn't find one in stock anywhere in town (Long Beach, CA). Apparently, the 3" oval MC shutter is a very limited supply manufacturer-only part. <br /><br />One Old Salt engine mechanic said that a new shutter probably wouldn't last more that a few trips out anyway, with raw salt water running through the cooling system, so we put it together without the shutter. The exhaust ports are at the bottom of the stern and angled sideways and down, and the Old Salt said backflushing was more of a problem with straight piped exhausts than our configuration. We thought that some kind of flapper for the exhaust output at the stern would be a better choice, being external and inspectable and all, but I haven't seen one for a 1" exhaust port on a Mercruiser stern. Any advice here?<br /><br />Anyway, we changed the oil, added some Marvel Mystery to break up the water/crud from the install and took it down to the marine stadium. It started and idled much better than before, and ran real well. It is noticeably quieter than before (not sure why, unless the manifold was cracked badly enough to send vibration and exhaust noise out into the engine compartment ??), and the water temp never got above 140F, even after several hot laps and heat soak at idle. We are very pleased with the results, although a bit anxious about the water shutter not being there (it would be a big job to replace at this point, with all the parts gasket-sealed and torqued up.)<br /><br />One new question about the shift linkage came up, though. We are having some trouble dialing in the linkage for predictable and positive shifts into forward and reverse gears. We can set either one for smooth and solid shifting, but then the other takes far to much travel to engage, if it engages at all. The manual is absolutely no help here, since it presumes that you are installing all new linkage, and the linkage from the transon to shift pawl in the lower unit has been preset. I know you there are several possible adjustment combinations, and we've tried most, but it doesn't seem to get both set. The neutral kill switch actuates fine, but we just can't get both gears set up simultaneously. If anyone has any advice to offer about this, or knows a procedure to set the shifter, I'd sure like to find out more.<br /><br />We very much appreciate all the good advice on our topic, and the general smarts that can be gleaned from other posts. Saved us a bunch of $$, I'm sure...<br /><br />JD
 
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