Warning buzzer issues 1995 E90TLEO

[wvmedic]

I was attempting to test the warning buzzer for my 1995 E90TLEO Evinrude on a 1995 Crestliner Sportfish 1750.

The buzzer under the dash on the 170 sounds for a few seconds when I turn the ignition to on.
But I am getting no warning buzzer when I ground either temp sensor. I am getting voltage to the tan wire at both temp sensors and to the VRO circuit. I haven't tested under the dash as of yet. Any ideas as to what the issue might be, not sure if this is a common issue or not.

The FSM doesn't show a diode inline that I can see that might have malfunctioned. I'm also not sure if the buzzer under the dash is the one that should sound or if there is a separate buzzer in the control.

I've searched the forum without success for an answer, only a couple posts with said issue and no answer as to what it was.

I know I ask a bunch of questions and I do appreciate you fine folks helping out with you're knowledge.

Jeff

 

[racerone]

Tell in detail exactly how you are testing the buzzer.

 

[wvmedic]

Tell in detail exactly how you are testing the buzzer.

I'm grounding them to the block by placing a screwdriver in the female socket and touching a bolt on the head. Not the pigtail from the sensors, but the main harness wire at both sensors as well as the line running from the VRO.

Jeff

 

[Crosbyman]

this sudden buzz at key on... is it a new problem that came up or just a new to you investment (boat) ???

my own tach beeps at key on to confirm it's operation and LEDs . Test wire continuity from your " grounding point" to the buzzer

not saying your testing is bad but buzzing at key ON may be ok.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

If the horn itself is functioning correctly (key switch test) and doesn't sound when you ground the wire going to the harness than perhaps you had a wire break in the harness.

Time to get out your tester.

 

[wvmedic]

If the horn itself is functioning correctly (key switch test) and doesn't sound when you ground the wire going to the harness than perhaps you had a wire break in the harness.

Time to get out your tester.

Understood, but. When testing volts by meter, I have power coming from the main harness at all check points at 10 + volts. Is that normal and if I'm getting power, would that mean that the wiring is intact?
I'm unsure and is why I am asking.

Thank you, Jeff

 

[wvmedic]

this sudden buzz at key on... is it a new problem that came up or just a new to you investment (boat) ???

my own tach beeps at key on to confirm it's operation and LEDs . Test wire continuity from your " grounding point" to the buzzer

not saying your testing is bad but buzzing at key ON may be ok.

My apologies, it is a new to me boat and am just going through things and making sure everything works as it should. The boat and motor have been very well taken care of and appears that has been properly maintained. Though I am uncertain if the original owner was aware of testing the warning system for function periodically.


Jeff

 

[Crosbyman]

to work your alarm needs power so battery on one wire would be mandatory ! 10.+ volts (measure it accurately) is likely good enough to buzz but normally battery power common to accessories and all should be equal to what you can read on clean battery posts ... if it is that low the battery needs a charge and should reach 13.5v or so full charge.

That said the warning alarm gets triggered by a ground signal from the VRO or heat sensor(s) on the power head . If you manually ground the wire the alarm should sound off ...if not it is defective although we know it does beep or buzz at key on. .

if it sounds ok proceed to follow the same wire back to the heat sensors or VRO and apply a good ground like you did up front ... if no alarm comes on the wire is likely open along the way.

if you have some form of connector linking front and back sections of the wiring clean all contacts to ensure continuity of the expected ground signal to trigger the alarm

 

[wvmedic]

to work your alarm needs power so battery on one wire would be mandatory ! 10.+ volts (measure it accurately) is likely good enough to buzz but normally battery power common to accessories and all should be equal to what you can read on clean battery posts ... if it is that low the battery needs a charge and should reach 13.5v or so full charge.

That said the warning alarm gets triggered by a ground signal from the VRO or heat sensor(s) on the power head . If you manually ground the wire the alarm should sound off ...if not it is defective although we know it does beep or buzz at key on. .

if it sounds ok proceed to follow the same wire back to the heat sensors or VRO and apply a good ground like you did up front ... if no alarm comes on the wire is likely open along the way.

if you have some form of connector linking front and back sections of the wiring clean all contacts to ensure continuity of the expected ground signal to trigger the alarm

I do need to test the battery, I should have done that yesterday. I absolutly will test it. The wire that had power was the tan wire, positive lead from the volt meter to it black lead to ground where I was trying to ground the tan wire is showing around 10.4 volts.

No connection plugs between the temp sensors other that the control red plug at the motor that I have seen. Hopefully I will get to check it tomorrow.

Thank you, Jeff

 

[Crosbyman]

tan usually carries a ground signal from the sensors not battery..see if you can find a manual

The temp sensors do not have a battery source so they would not put batt. on the tan wire
it is possible you are seeing voltage looped around in the buzzer and back out presented on the tan which waits for a ground.

Disconnect the battery to the alarm and retest the tan to see if the battery voltage is gone..

if it disappears as I suspect.....
Do an end to end ohm test on the TAN wire to make certain it could carry any grounds generated by the VRO or temp sensors on the PH .

if open the alarm would never sound to alert you be it VRO or overheated sensors

 

[racerone]

Well----12 volts is on the tan wire to the overheat sensor.----When sensor sees too much heat the 12 volts goes to ground.----Horn then sounds.

 

[Crosbyman]

Well----12 volts is on the tan wire to the overheat sensor.----When sensor sees too much heat the 12 volts goes to ground.----Horn then sounds.

The temp sensors do not have a battery source so they would not put batt. on the tan wire
it is possible you are seeing voltage looped around in the buzzer and back out presented on the tan which waits for a ground.

 

[wvmedic]

The temp sensors do not have a battery source so they would not put batt. on the tan wire
it is possible you are seeing voltage looped around in the buzzer and back out presented on the tan which waits for a ground.

Here is the schematic from my FSM. I'll try to trace the wires later today.

Thank you to everyone's input, Jeff.

 

[Crosbyman]

But I am getting no warning buzzer when I ground either temp sensor. I am getting voltage to the tan wire at both temp sensors and to the VRO circuit.

reading back.... I would say your buzzer is defective because it's looped battery supply on th TAN wire was measured at the VRO and heat sensors.

IF you manually ground that TAN at the buzzer end and it does not sound
it will not work be any better getting grounds from the sensors or vro.

If the acc. battery source is good (clean all contacts in case of a resistive connection giving you battery but few milliamps to drive the buzzer) then the buzzer is defective. remove it and bench test it to confirm .

you can always hook in anextra piezo buzzer in the mean time.

 

[wvmedic]

But I am getting no warning buzzer when I ground either temp sensor. I am getting voltage to the tan wire at both temp sensors and to the VRO circuit.

reading back.... I would say your buzzer is defective because it's looped battery supply on th TAN wire was measured at the VRO and heat sensors.

IF you manually ground that TAN at the buzzer end and it does not sound
it will not work be any better getting grounds from the sensors or vro.

If the acc. battery source is good (clean all contacts in case of a resistive connection giving you battery but few milliamps to drive the buzzer) then the buzzer is defective. remove it and bench test it to confirm .

you can always hook in anextra piezo buzzer in the mean time.

I will absolutely check that, I appreciate the information.

Jeff