I've already found a new set of points which I've replaced its setting the points that I. Having an issue with
Set them by timing. You can set them by gap (.020 INCHES, not metric) but that does not guarantee the timing is correct. There will be timing marks on the flywheel somewhere, and there are two marks on the front of the magneto plate. You set them so that as you slowly rotate the engine, the points open either at first approaching mark, or between the two marks. If you are "tricky" with an ohmeter on low ohms setting you can probe in through the inspection hole, or even temporarily "rig" a wire to the points and run it out through a removed condenser mounting screw. If you have difficulty with the ohmeter, temporarily remove the coil grounds and put a small bit of tape on the wire end.
Set the flywheel on gently and rotate--always in correct running direction, CW to check. If I use a flywheel I take a scribe and straightedge and "more visibly mark" the timing marks so I can see them at the outside of the wheel.
Make sure plug wires are good. If any question on condensers, replace them. You CAN NOT check condensers with an ohmeter, contrary to "internet wisdom". If the coils epoxy is cracked open replace them. Make CERTAIN coil cores are not rubbing on flywheel.
I cheat. I use a factory timing tool and "mag timer" device, so it goes quicker. But on 40hp or the smaller 2 1/2 hp I must use the flywheels
this here is a pretty good read
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