VP 5.7 Gi-F Riser &Manifold Gaskets / Spark Plug Questions

MalibuMike

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I'm about to put my new exhaust manifolds and risers on and noticed that the Sierra gaskets for the riser are very different than the OEM Volvos. The Sierras are thick and look like they can deal with imperfections. The OEM Volvos are a thin meta gasket with a small rubber bump separating the water passages from the exhaust. The Sierras might work better for surfaces with imperfections, but I've got new surfaces. I've researched all the archives and can't tell which ones to go with when dealing with new surfaces.
Also, the spark plugs that were in the boat are a Champion 7103's. I can't find any reference if these are even the right ones to use. VP part numbers for the spark plug usually take me to sites that sell them for $9 a piece! Napa is giving me these as options. The motor is from 1997.
 

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alldodge

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Unable to say anything about the gasket but everyone is going to iridium plugs because they say they last longer. Merc uses AC 41-993 (was 41-932)

I would use AC MR43LTS and not bother with high priced plugs but that's just me

What's your serial number?
 

MalibuMike

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Unable to say anything about the gasket but everyone is going to iridium plugs because they say they last longer. Merc uses AC 41-993 (was 41-932)

I would use AC MR43LTS and not bother with high priced plugs but that's just me

What's your serial number?
 

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Lou C

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I'm about to put my new exhaust manifolds and risers on and noticed that the Sierra gaskets for the riser are very different than the OEM Volvos. The Sierras are thick and look like they can deal with imperfections. The OEM Volvos are a thin meta gasket with a small rubber bump separating the water passages from the exhaust. The Sierras might work better for surfaces with imperfections, but I've got new surfaces. I've researched all the archives and can't tell which ones to go with when dealing with new surfaces.
Also, the spark plugs that were in the boat are a Champion 7103's. I can't find any reference if these are even the right ones to use. VP part numbers for the spark plug usually take me to sites that sell them for $9 a piece! Napa is giving me these as options. The motor is from 1997.
There are no VP spark plugs, they just sell Champ or whichever they spec and then double the price. What makes the difference is the cyl head design. If you have a Vortec engine the plugs have a longer reach than if you have the pre-Vortec. Vortec has 8 bolts holding down the intake manifold pre-Vortec has 12 bolts. Do not use the longer reach plugs in a pre-Vortec. I have always used the AC/Delco marine plugs. I think the LTS plugs are extended reach.
 

QBhoy

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Don’t think there is any call for iridium plugs in this engine, if it’s the one I’m thinking of.
 

Lou C

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As far as the elbow gaskets it sounds like Sierra improved them, they used to be lousy. The ones I got in my Barr kit were thick composition gaskets that I coated with Permatex Aviation and no leaks. So the Sierra ones may be fine, maybe post up a comparison pic .
 

Lou C

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Here's what the ones I used look like.
 

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MalibuMike

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The thin metal one is the Oem volvo ones that just came off the risers. About the thickness if two or three playing cards. The Sierras are much thicker and a compressible material, maybe two or three credit cards in thickness. Still not sure which one is the right one to use.
 

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alldodge

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My guess is the OEM use to be thicker and where compressed
 

Lou C

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The Sierra gaskets look similar to the Barr ones I used, maybe a little thicker, it may be that they might seal better with imperfect sealing surfaces but the Volvo gaskets might hold up to heat better but may need near perfect sealing surfaces to seal. I know that when you install the Volvo ones the instructions say to use a copper based spray or brush on high temp sealer and they have specific toque specs.
 

MalibuMike

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Learned a few things today! The goal was to install exhaust manifolds, risers, heat exchanges, impeller, tensioner pulley, and thermostat.
I finally feltl like a real mechanic since this was the first time using a torque wrench. I was in the minor leagues but it all changed when I got that torque wrench!
-I learned that my spark plugs are the "long reach" type that are used in motors with Vortec style intake manifolds. The key identifier is that the bolts holding the intake down are straight up and down and not at an angle.
- The cut off bolts used to slide on the exhaust manifolds help a ton. I wish I had cut them bit longer since there was only about 1/8 inch sticking out for me to grab and remove.
- It is best to install the brass 90 degree hose couplers exhaust manifold first before putting them on. The power steering reservoir is in the way otherwise. Same with the plugs at the stern.
- Heat exchanger wasn't too bad but on the first go around I didnt line up some pin in the rear bracket hole and that threw everything off.
- I used the Sierra gaskets. They slip around a bit when lowering the riser so I can see how an adhesive would have helped keep them in place.
- One riser bolt is a tad bit longer than the rest to accommodate one bracket holding some electronics and another bracket with the oil filter.
- One store tried to sell me a $75 impeller remover! It pulled right out with plyers. They also gave me the wrong size one even after I brought mine in and let them look at the number and match it. Best to pull it out first before trying to match it. The heigh was off by a lot.
- The Sierra exhaust manifolds have a blue plastic drain plug that screws in underneath. Any reason to have these if I will never be "winterizing" my boat. Better to throw a brass plug in there? Just wondering if they become brittle.

Here is one concern if you have an answer.
I put two new exhaust manifolds on from Sierra. The boat came with a new Barr riser so I order a used one online from a place in Texas that must dismantle hurricane boats or something like that. The thing looked new but is missing the exhaust temperature port. The guy who sold it to me said that just having one hooked up is ok. Now I understand that the one without the port could overheat and I wouldnt know it. I do have a IR gun and can keep an eye on it but not too worried since everything in the cooling system has been done. The question is if the computer can function without it being hooked up or if I should just attach the sensor to the wire and tuck it away?
 

alldodge

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The exhaust temp sensors and just switches and they are tied together and go to one pin on the ECM. If either get to hot the circuit is closed. Could tuck the wire in. Its a nice idea to have it, but in most cases if one side was getting hot the other side would also

With the gaskets your using on the elbows your manifolds would not be filled with antifreeze and need to be drained during winteriztion
 

MalibuMike

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Unable to say anything about the gasket but everyone is going to iridium plugs because they say they last longer. Merc uses AC 41-993 (was 41-932)

I would use AC MR43LTS and not bother with high priced plugs but that's just me

What's your serial number?
Ended up with AC MR43LTS. Thank you.
 

alldodge

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Agree they would, but your motor calls for .060
The LTS was used before the iridium came out and they came pre-gapped at .045 and can be re-gapped. The iridium came gapped at.060 and should never be regapped because of breaking the iridium coating

Your motor and spark system is setup for the higher gap. Many of the motors has the gap spec on the motor. It will run with .045 its just designed for the higher gap
 

MalibuMike

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Agree they would, but your motor calls for .060
The LTS was used before the iridium came out and they came pre-gapped at .045 and can be re-gapped. The iridium came gapped at.060 and should never be regapped because of breaking the iridium coating

Your motor and spark system is setup for the higher gap. Many of the motors has the gap spec on the motor. It will run with .045 its just designed for the higher gap
If I can get a refund, would you advise to swap out to the iridiums? Would it run poorly with .045?
 
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