VP 4.3 winterization simplification .... sorta

[harringtondav]

My new VP O/M states to run the engine on 50:1 premix for 15 min before winter layover.
Last fall I took one look at engine access and guessed on the gas in the fuel tank and premixed a rich dose in a gas can and poured into the fuel tank. I saw and smelled 2 stroke oil, so I figured good enough.
This year I'm doing it per Hoyle. Manual shows a O/B tank hose going into the filter housing. Easier in the picture than actually doing it. After disassembling a good part of the aft interior to gain access (previous post), I was able to slit the fuel hose to get it off the filter housing barb and remove the fitting.
Pic 1 shows the fitting and my Merc O/B tank hose motor coupler which I had to cut off.
Pic 2 shows my solution. I'm not in the mood to continue cutting hoses off. Since both hoses spun freely on their barbs I'll loosen the hose clamp, back out the 3/8 pipe fitting at the elbow letting it turn in the hose. Switch hoses and run 2 stoke from the O/B tank. I can access the filter housing fitting w/o disassembling the boat.
If I can find the corresponding O/B male motor gas coupler fitting next year I'll adapt it to the 3/8 pipe and simplify further.

 

[Stinnett21]

This is similar to what I do. I use two OMC quick disconnects. One stays on the fogging tank line, just to close it off. Another I carry loose to plug the boats fuel line once removed. I have to remove the panel beside the starboard side of the engine for access. Is it a PITA? Yes, such is the life of an I/O (Merc MPI) owner. As I get older I'm seriously considering not fogging.

 

[harringtondav]

As I get older I'm seriously considering not fogging.

MPI and high pressure direct injection fogging does more than fog the engine's innards. It also lubes up the injectors and high pressure fuel pump to avoid corrosion.
If premix into the fuel filter housing gets old I'll go back to running the fuel tank low and add enough rich premix directly to the tank. I have a no-CAT engine, so a little extra 2 stroke oil shouldn't hurt much. First spring fill up and it will be good.

 

[QBhoy]

MPI and high pressure direct injection fogging does more than fog the engine's innards. It also lubes up the injectors and high pressure fuel pump to avoid corrosion.
If premix into the fuel filter housing gets old I'll go back to running the fuel tank low and add enough rich premix directly to the tank. I have a no-CAT engine, so a little extra 2 stroke oil shouldn't hurt much. First spring fill up and it will be good.

I do exactly what you used to do with my mpi. I run the tank as low as I dare…then ad a bit of pre mixed fuel from a can, into the tank. Get evidence of the run through by smell and sometimes sight…then pull her out.
I’ll stick to this method for sure. Not only does it get the oil through the engine and it’s injection gear…the tcw3 also acts as a good additive to the fuel in the tank..

 

[muc]

MPI and high pressure direct injection fogging does more than fog the engine's innards. It also lubes up the injectors and high pressure fuel pump to avoid corrosion.

OH YA ---- so true.

The procedure you described is how most quality shops do it since the low permeation fuel lines came out. They are almost impossible to get off without cutting them.

 

[tpenfield]

@harringtondav . . .

Just be careful about the annual disconnecting and reconnecting, as you may encounter a fuel leak at the fittings, which could end badly.

Is there a spare fuel fitting on the fuel tank? If so, you could hook up an anti-siphon valve and a shut-off valve, and use it to drain (pump out) the fuel from your tank. Then as you did before, add enough of a fogging cocktail to winterize the engine.

I just don't like the idea of disconnecting the fuel line to the engine, because it increases the chances of a leak down the road.

 

[Stinnett21]

@harringtondav . . .

Just be careful about the annual disconnecting and reconnecting, as you may encounter a fuel leak at the fittings, which could end badly.

Is there a spare fuel fitting on the fuel tank? If so, you could hook up an anti-siphon valve and a shut-off valve, and use it to drain (pump out) the fuel from your tank. Then as you did before, add enough of a fogging cocktail to winterize the engine.

I just don't like the idea of disconnecting the fuel line to the engine, because it increases the chances of a leak down the road.

Yes I've wondered about this also. I tighten the hose clamp well and check for leaks frequently. I have enough slack to be able to cut off some hose if needed. But I admit your (and QBhoy's) method sounds appealing.

 

[harringtondav]

@harringtondav . . .

Just be careful about the annual disconnecting and reconnecting, as you may encounter a fuel leak at the fittings, which could end badly.

Is there a spare fuel fitting on the fuel tank? If so, you could hook up an anti-siphon valve and a shut-off valve, and use it to drain (pump out) the fuel from your tank. Then as you did before, add enough of a fogging cocktail to winterize the engine.

I just don't like the idea of disconnecting the fuel line to the engine, because it increases the chances of a leak down the road.

Thanks Ted. I didn't see an extra tank tap.
I'm aware of the hazard and have assembled the main supply fittings with PTFE tape and tightened just short of splitting the female thread.
I'll install the main elbow with the Teflon tape tomorrow and tighten it to, or over the torque I used to remove it. The 2 stroke barb will be temporary and minimal hazard. The 3/8" main supply barb assy is leak proof at negative fuel draw pressure. Getting this assembly fully tightened into the main elbow is the critical joint, as well as getting the hose clamp snugged.
Repeated disassembly of a brass pipe joint can wear it. I open the sun deck/engine lid every time I start the engine to close the battery disconnect. So I'll be able to see if the joint needs tightening or a new nipple.

 

[harringtondav]

Is there a spare fuel fitting on the fuel tank? If so, you could hook up an anti-siphon valve and a shut-off valve, and use it to drain (pump out) the fuel from your tank.

I don't easily disregard advice from a sage expert. ...especially one who's previously put me in my place.
Below is my accessible tank. No spare bungs. I've been pondering a way to tap into an existing hose for a siphon port accessible in the engine bay. I can't think of one that wouldn't involve more hose joints and leak risk than what I've come up with.
Next year I'll have a Shurflow electric extractor pump on a collection bucket. I believe this is gas safe. I'll see if I can thread a hose through the large filler hose to the bottom of the tank. The filler cap is a long way from the tank. It's approx mid ship starboard, just outside the driver's seat. ....iffy at best.