VP 4.3 GL conversion to Holley Sniper 2 efi

[Mi_fiveo]

Can’t find much info on this but I’d like to know more if anyone has experience with it? All I can figure so far is the low pressure fuel pump would need to be replaced with something high pressure to use the Holley sniper 2. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

Several have installed then on OSO and for the most part they will self program but need O2 sensors. Yes you will need a HP pump

 

[Scott06]

Can’t find much info on this but I’d like to know more if anyone has experience with it? All I can figure so far is the low pressure fuel pump would need to be replaced with something high pressure to use the Holley sniper 2. Anyone have any thoughts?

I think there was a guy on here doing sniper to his Mercruiser 3.7 or may have been Marine engine forum. You can type sniper in the search and get all the threads where guys have done it...

I think the issue the guy may have hit was coolant temp. You want to verify this in case I am talking crap, I think the sniper doesn't go into learn or regulate the AFR mode until it gets to 170 or 180 degrees ( I guess out of warm up fuel mapping).

 

[Scott Danforth]

What are the benefits you are trying to get by spending $2k on a sniper system? (Sniper, plus hp pump, plus regulator, plus fuel return)

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I just dislike carbs. Been having issues with the engine dying on acceleration and then hard to restart. Replaced the fuel pump, ignition control module and coil. Still have to pull and inspect the fuel pickup and anti syphon valve. I have the carb pulled off to rebuild it and I put some mineral spirits in the fuel port to try and loosen up any deposits. While doing this I noticed the spirits are leaking out of the gasket around the accelerator pump. I don’t have the new carb kit in yet so I haven’t began to tear it apart. Could this have something to do with the engine suddenly dying and then not wanting to restart? On cold start it fires up reliably after two pumps of the handle and idles fine. I’m gonna get it running reliably one way or another!

 

[alldodge]

If carb is leaking fuel then carb needs rebuilt. While the leaking carb is not the issue with not starting or hard starts, the most probable cause is the float needs reset, the fuel bowl valve needs replaced. Most likely its flooding, but inspection would need to be done

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Thank you for the insight. Every time I think I have it fixed it works for awhile and then suddenly boom it dies and won’t restart. Hoping this carb rebuild is the answer. I don’t think it’s ever been rebuilt since 2002 because the paint was all intact around the carb and when I removed it the nuts flaked off. Engine only has 500 some hours on it.

 

[Scott06]

I just dislike carbs. Been having issues with the engine dying on acceleration and then hard to restart. Replaced the fuel pump, ignition control module and coil. Still have to pull and inspect the fuel pickup and anti syphon valve. I have the carb pulled off to rebuild it and I put some mineral spirits in the fuel port to try and loosen up any deposits. While doing this I noticed the spirits are leaking out of the gasket around the accelerator pump. I don’t have the new carb kit in yet so I haven’t began to tear it apart. Could this have something to do with the engine suddenly dying and then not wanting to restart? On cold start it fires up reliably after two pumps of the handle and idles fine. I’m gonna get it running reliably one way or another!

based on your symptoms yes start with carb rebuild. would also get a new float. Last summer i did the holley 2 bbl on my buddies 4.3 VP. Starts and runs perfect now. I found an oem VP kit for less than $100. I got the float at mikes carb, they also have good how to vids.

The idea to replace $100 worth carb kit and float with fuel injection doesnt make sense. Once you learn how to clean and set up a carb you will enjoy the fact that it is pretty reliable and can be fixed with some carb cleaner and a screw driver… most issues rebuilding carbs are not getting them fully clean. I started using a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner does a great job getting the carb clean.

my last boat I cleaned and rebuilt the carb twice in 25 years. When I got my new boat and repowered it I bought a carbed engine so I could fix it with basic tools vs waiting on parts or the marina .

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Thanks I’ll probably dig into it soon. The boat is in storage until April so I can’t test it out after the rebuild right away. I did get the real VP carb kit as all of the Holley ones didn’t match up with my carb number 75006-1. I’ll inspect the float for any damage, not sure what else to look for except clear passages or debris blocking something. I only run ethanol free fuel.

 

[alldodge]

When rebuilding try to find some fishing line thru the passages. If that won't go, look for safety wire, it comes in small gauges

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Thanks for the tip, I have some to try that and make sure the passages are clean. I’ve seen two different recommendations on the size of the power valve, either 2.5 or 4.5 for the 4.3 GL-A engine. Not sure which is correct and what comes with the kit I ordered. One picture of the kit has two power valves and a different picture of the kit only shows one. I’ll have to see what I get in the mail on Monday and what size I pull out of my carb when I break it down.

 

[Scott Danforth]

A Holley carb can be gone thru for as little as $10 in gaskets, or the whole $40 kit (VP charges 2.5x ). I buy gaskets in bulk

(Hint, look up your carb list number to get the correct kit cheap). The kit for your 500CFM Holley 2300 is $38

Agree on passing a fishing line thru the passages

and I put some mineral spirits in the fuel port to try and loosen up any deposits. While doing this I noticed the spirits are leaking out of the gasket around the accelerator pump.

The mineral spirits didn't help the accelerator diaphragm

 

[Scott Danforth]

Thanks for the tip, I have some to try that and make sure the passages are clean. I’ve seen two different recommendations on the size of the power valve, either 2.5 or 4.5 for the 4.3 GL-A engine.

Power valve requirement varies from motor to motor. I would run a 45 on the 4.3

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Appreciate the help, will try that out. I’ll post up results when I’m able to test it out.

 

[Scott06]

A Holley carb can be gone thru for as little as $10 in gaskets, or the whole $40 kit (VP charges 2.5x ). I buy gaskets in bulk

(Hint, look up your carb list number to get the correct kit cheap). The kit for your 500CFM Holley 2300 is $38

Agree on passing a fishing line thru the passages


The mineral spirits didn't help the accelerator diaphragm

I ended up with the VP kit for same reason as op, couldn’t find a kit that matched the carb number. Mikes could only give me a probably should work about their kit. the VP kit was only $25 more than mikes kit so worth it if not one can guarantee fit.

i think I got if from Leaders RPM in michigan.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I searched on Holley for a marine kit for 75006-1 with no results. I bought the VP 21533400 after showing it cross referenced with my engine, 4.3 GL-A. We’ll see how it matches up with the parts in the carb I have and go from there.

 

[alldodge]

In most cases but not all, a great place to get carb kits is Mikes Carbs. If something is wrong he fixes it, and is also a great source of info

 

[Scott06]

I searched on Holley for a marine kit for 75006-1 with no results. I bought the VP 21533400 after showing it cross referenced with my engine, 4.3 GL-A. We’ll see how it matches up with the parts in the carb I have and go from there.

That is the same one I got worked perfectly. Not sure if the kit is same as Holley but doesn’t list volvo carbs to keep yiu from buying non VP parts …

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have the benefit of having a pile of gaskets, jets, air bleeds, PV's for Holley 2300/4150/4160 carbs. The Holley 2300 and 4150 carbs are like Mr potato head. I no longer buy kits

 

[Scott Danforth]

Look for R75006 not just 75006