Volvo Penta 3.0 4 cylinder engine won't start

[Dash48]

Okay guys this boat engine issue is getting the best of me I normally don't have this much difficulty finding a problem that I haven't been able to resolve. I got the engine at top dead center, put in the new distributor exactly how it was suggested the rotor is pointing down to the number one cylinder on the distributor cap. I put the plug wires on it just the way I was showing videos including watching several on YouTube. I even showed an image of having power to the distributor cap but no power is getting to the spark plugs. I've done this three four times sticking in the distributor with the same results, it's not starting, it's not firing, it's not getting any electricity to the plugs why!!!

 

[ESGWheel]

The dist. and rotor location and the firing order all look good from the pictures so thank you for posting them. I am unsure what that picture ending in 306 file name is showing. What is that?

Ok so to the problem. You say you are not getting spark to the plugs, but you do not say how you know that or what you checked. In post #31 you validated getting +12V to the coil, so that seems good.

Since you have a remote starter push button can you please do this:
Unplug the coil high tension wire from the distributor and hold the end a few millimeters away from a good ground, like the engine block. With the key on, use the remote starter to crank the engine. You should see sparks rapidly and strong.

• If good strong sparks, plug the high-tension wire back into the distributor and again try to start the engine using the remote starter. Do not play with the throttle, have it at idle, and use some starter fluid spray while it cranking to give it a kick.
• If no spark, its possible the coil is bad. So do this: unplug the connection to the coil and with the key in the run position (not start) check again for +12V.
  • If +12V then bad coil is suspect since new distributor
  • If no +12V, try to figure out why. And given the situation I would even suggest jumping in +12V from the battery to see if can get this puppy to run.

 

[Dash48]

Thanks for your reply yes I've already taken the spark plug off and try to put it near the engine no spark. I also put a extra spark plug in it and held at near the block no spark. My suspect is the coil also it's electronic coil I will try your method to see if I can diagnose that issue will give you an update tomorrow hopefully

 

[Dash48]

Disregard

 

[Dash48]

Sorry about that the 306 image is the test light that I put into the high tension plug wire from the coil showing that it's hot which goes into the main post of the distributor cap as far as the test that I did I put each spark plug wire from each cylinder to the engine block no spark I also hooked up a timing light to each spark plug wire turn the engine over with the key on and the timing light did not light up I also put a test light on each spark plug wire with no light phone it tells me there's no spark going to the spark plugs I do have 12 volts going to distributor cap. I think our terminology or maybe mine is getting a little confusing I'm going to upload two images of a electronic modular which I guess replace the distributor coil positive and negative when I am talking about the distributor cap or the distributor I get 12 volts to the plug wires from the modular that go into the distributor cap and I get a hot to the main high tension coil wire to the distributor cap however after trying to get spark from the modular to the high tension plug wire using a spark plug to the engine block I did not get any spark whatsoever also just using the spark plug high tension wire also did not generate any spark when turning the key which concludes what your suggestion and thoughts are with also my personal conclusion Daddy seems like it could be the electronic modular I'm going to go ahead and order one from Amazon tonight if you see the images you can identify the part number hopefully we'll see what happens tomorrow thanks for all your help

 

[Dash48]

Sorry about that the 306 image is the test light that I put into the high tension plug wire from the coil showing that it's hot which goes into the main post of the distributor cap as far as the test that I did I put each spark plug wire from each cylinder to the engine block no spark I also hooked up a timing light to each spark plug wire turn the engine over with the key on and the timing light did not light up I also put a test light on each spark plug wire with no light phone it tells me there's no spark going to the spark plugs I do have 12 volts going to distributor cap. I think our terminology or maybe mine is getting a little confusing I'm going to upload two images of a electronic modular which I guess replace the distributor coil positive and negative when I am talking about the distributor cap or the distributor I get 12 volts to the plug wires from the modular that go into the distributor cap and I get a hot to the main high tension coil wire to the distributor cap however after trying to get spark from the modular to the high tension plug wire using a spark plug to the engine block I did not get any spark whatsoever also just using the spark plug high tension wire also did not generate any spark when turning the key which concludes what your suggestion and thoughts are with also my personal conclusion Daddy seems like it could be the electronic modular I'm going to go ahead and order one from Amazon tonight if you see the images you can identify the part number hopefully we'll see what happens tomorrow thanks for all your help

 

[ESGWheel]

Dash, i think a new coil is a good idea. And agree that our terminology may be different. I have learned it is best not to post past my bedtime, so I will put another post up tomorrow with pictures and where to test +12V and spark as it does seem we are talking different things.

 

[Lou C]

I would:
Get a VP wiring diagram verify that you have voltage you should have…
Don’t buy parts from Amazon many counterfeit parts and just plain junk….
Find a local dealer who can get OEM parts, or good aftermarket ignition like CDI electronics.

 

[ESGWheel]

Dash,
I am seeking some help in another post on how to troubleshoot this type of ignition system, so bear with me while i read up on them and get advice from folks who know way more than me.

 

[Dash48]

Well the electronic modular came in yesterday and I hooked up the high tension plug wire and snapped on harness wires to the bottom which goes to the distributor cap base, and the high tension plug wire which goes to the center of the distributor cap once again no spark to the spark plugs. I am totally lost I'm going to upload an image that I have a question about in identifying part and also the back part of my alternator to make sure everything is wired correctly. The Orange wire is my positive, the black ground wire is at to the lower right corner of the alternator, and the two purple wires are to the electronic carburetor choke and the other solid purple wire is to voltage meter. I'm almost tempted to explore the wiring harness itself my gauges are working on the instrument panel and I have 12 volts to the electronic modular and to the distributor cap that's where it ends could my timing be an issue with the way I got my distributor I can turn it 180° out if that might make it function

 

[Dash48]

Well the electronic modular came in yesterday and I hooked up the high tension plug wire and snapped on harness wires to the bottom which goes to the distributor cap base, and the high tension plug wire which goes to the center of the distributor cap once again no spark to the spark plugs. I am totally lost I'm going to upload an image that I have a question about in identifying part and also the back part of my alternator to make sure everything is wired correctly. The Orange wire is my positive, the black ground wire is at to the lower right corner of the alternator, and the two purple wires are to the electronic carburetor choke and the other solid purple wire is to voltage meter. I'm almost tempted to explore the wiring harness itself my gauges are working on the instrument panel and I have 12 volts to the electronic modular and to the distributor cap that's where it ends could my timing be an issue with the way I got my distributor I can turn it 180° out if that might make it function... The second picture had bare wires that I came across and I taped them all together thinking they were all ground wires on the left side of this wiring harness

 

[ESGWheel]

I have attached a troubleshooting guide for these ignition systems that AllDodge posted. I put it in a pdf format so you can print it out. I have not digested it yet as I have been busy with work and maybe for the next few days, so please take a look and see if it will help.

Also, I am thinking we can get on the phone together to talk live (if you desire) but may not be for a couple of days. If you would like to that send me a PM with your time zone and info.

 

[Dash48]

I've got some great news ESG I went back out and put the old electronic modular back on and I cleaned up the connections and also did a 12 volt test from the modular to the distributor cap harness wires and then I looked at my plug wires and noticed they weren't on correctly for some reason I might have swapped him a couple times wondering what the heck was going on my very first picture when I got the boat of the distributor cap plug wires look different than the way they do now and the boat was running before so I was a little confused how come the plug wires are having to be different now maybe the boat wasn't top dead center when I got it even though it ran fairly well. The good news is I had it running tonight about 5 seconds it backfired a few times I switched a couple of plug wires 1243 and I had it running for about 5 seconds but it got too dark we'll start again tomorrow

 

[ESGWheel]

AWESOME!!!!