Volvo Penta 3.0 4 cylinder engine won't start

[Dash48]

Okay only problem is I already pulled out the distributor after I removed the distributor cap and the rotor I pulled the number one spark plug spun the motor until the Piston was all the way up to the top use my finger and also use the screwdriver once I had it to where it was close to top dead center and the timing marks were close to each other on the harmonic balancer I noticed the rotor was not facing the number one so I pulled the distributor out and relocated it so the rotor was facing the number one stuck the distributor back down put the cap back on spun the motor no different results. The new distributor will come in on Monday this week and I am traveling out of town so I will get back on this project Monday afternoon hopefully I really do appreciate all your information I do have a multimeter and I will test the ohms thanks again for your help I'll send you the info on the distributor that I purchased I hope it's the right one Amazon said it was and we know how that goes LOL

 

[ESGWheel]

Well, the dist. is out so it’s doing it the TDC way. However, there are two times the No. 1 Piston is at TDC for a complete cycle since this is a 4-stroke engine. You need to take off the valve cover to ensure the no. 1 cylinder valves are closed. Another method is the finger in the spark plug hole and feeling for air pressure pushing out your finger during the upstroke on the compression (or firing) stroke. You must be turning the engine in the proper direction (same as if was running). Here is video I found on doing this on a Merc 3.0 link.

 

[ESGWheel]

You may already understand there are 2 x TDC but only one that matters for the distributor placement. But your post made me think otherwise. Thus, just in case, please see this link. It’s the Compression Stroke being at TDC for No. 1 Cylinder that you are trying to achieve.

 

[Dash48]

Well, the dist. is out so it’s doing it the TDC way. However, there are two times the No. 1 Piston is at TDC for a complete cycle since this is a 4-stroke engine. You need to take off the valve cover to ensure the no. 1 cylinder valves are closed. Another method is the finger in the spark plug hole and feeling for air pressure pushing out your finger during the upstroke on the compression (or firing) stroke. You must be turning the engine in the proper direction (same as if was running). Here is video I found on doing this on a Merc 3.0 link.

Good morning everyone I'm still waiting on my distributor from Amazon hopefully it will come in today not sure if it came from China or where but I'll match it up and then go from there thanks for all your input I will get back with you guys as soon as possible on the final results. Cross my fingers cross my eyes cross my legs cross my toes if it's possible LOL

 

[ESGWheel]

Thanks for the update. I know you will get this going. Some things to note as a recap:

1. Test the coil as described in post #20
2. Ensure you are at the firing stroke TDC using the finger method and then aligning the timing mark to 0. See post #22. And be sure you are turning over the engine in the proper direction (I do not know if that is CW or CCW when looking aft at the front of the engine, so hopefully you do know).
3. See video link in Post 22 for placement of the distributor housing and the rotor. While this is for a MC 3.0 I think it is the same. What may frustrate you is the Oil Pump. You will have to use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to the proper orientation. It will take a few tries but it will work. Watch the video a couple times to familiar yourself with the process.
4. Once it is running you will have to time it.

Also, if you get a chance, please post a link for the Amazon distributor you bought or a model no. so I can research it. And Good Luck!

 

[Dash48]

Thanks for the update. I know you will get this going. Some things to note as a recap:

1. Test the coil as described in post #20
2. Ensure you are at the firing stroke TDC using the finger method and then aligning the timing mark to 0. See post #22. And be sure you are turning over the engine in the proper direction (I do not know if that is CW or CCW when looking aft at the front of the engine, so hopefully you do know).
3. See video link in Post 22 for placement of the distributor housing and the rotor. While this is for a MC 3.0 I think it is the same. What may frustrate you is the Oil Pump. You will have to use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to the proper orientation. It will take a few tries but it will work. Watch the video a couple times to familiar yourself with the process.
4. Once it is running you will have to time it.

Also, if you get a chance, please post a link for the Amazon distributor you bought or a model no. so I can research it. And Good Luck!

Thank you so much for all your information yes I have stuck a few distributors in my time and I have used a big screwdriver to align the oil pump shaft towards the number one cylinder Amazon has delayed my delivery it won't be until the 29th of September it's been already two weeks I think it's coming from China. I'm hoping this is the issue I will definitely troubleshoot your method that you described earlier later tonight I had a birthday on Friday so just recuperating but need to get back out of my projects. Is there a way to inspect the electronics under the rotor I might go ahead and remove that to see if there's any possible soldering issue haven't really worked on distributors before but I'm 68 and I've done 50 years worth of mechanical work over the years thanks for the info

 

[Dash48]

Quick question on number 20 of this feed when you say remove the plug wires from the coil are you referring to the distributor cap because the coil module only has the main lead plug that goes to the distributor cap I'm just guessing that you're referring to the distributor cap plug wires to do a ohms test thanks for your help

 

[ESGWheel]

Since I am not familiar with your distributor and coil set up I am assuming your coil looks like the picture below, so strip it of its wires (+ and – and High-Tension Lead) and test as indicted. If your coil uses a connector plug for the + and – same idea just need to figure out which is which.

 

[Dash48]

This is what my coil looks like

 

[Dash48]

Okay another update: I ran an ohms test from the coil to the distributor cap after disconnecting the positive negatives using my multimeter and I got a 1.5 ohms I got my motor at top dead center on the compression stroke timing marks are lined up waiting on my new distributor to come in they say Sunday the 29th. In the meantime I pulled a distributor broke it down to do a little bit of inspection and self-diagnosed and this is what I found see photos. I am hoping that this is the issue so a replacement should be the solution any comments would be appreciated

 

[Dash48]

Okay here's the latest update I got the brand new distributor got my number one cylinder top dead center stuck the distributor in put the spark plugs back in put the plug wires back on turned over the motor and nothing happened. No backfire no acting like it wanted to start there's some electrical issues somewhere even though the distributor was probably needed I'm still not getting spark to the spark plugs does anyone think it might be the coil? I'm getting 12 volts to the coil

 

[Scott Danforth]

its never the coil (only about 2 out of a million suspected bad coils are ever bad). however a coil is easy to diagnose.

My guess is the distributor is 180 degrees out.

 

[Dash48]

its never the coil (only about 2 out of a million suspected bad coils are ever bad). however a coil is easy to diagnose.

My guess is the distributor is 180 degrees out.

Thank you Scott for your input my question is wouldn't it at least backfire and when I get spark coming from the spark plug check it again today I'll pull off my valve cover and make sure that the number one cylinder is top dead center and the valves are closed

 

[Dash48]

Okay guys I got a quick question I'm baffled. Is the rotor supposed to be pointing towards the number one spark plug cylinder when I stick the distributor after I've gotten everything at TDC? I've watched a lot of YouTubes and they show me some of them have the rotor pointing at the front corner of the distributor cap towards the bottom facing the oil filter or water pump please advise all comments are welcome

 

[Scott Danforth]

read the instructions on the Delco EST distributor installation. you point the distributor to a specific location on the body while at TDC and the distributor points to a second location when it is seated.

 

[Dash48]

read the instructions on the Delco EST distributor installation. you point the distributor to a specific location on the body while at TDC and the distributor points to a second location when it is seated.

Hello Scott first of all there was no instructions in the Amazon package that I received for this distributor second year statement about body I'm not sure I understand what that is referring to it's either the engine block the number one cylinder on the head or are you referring to the distributor housing when the cap is off of the distributor please elaborate I have actually over 50 years of mechanical experience but I have not worked on Marine engines or Volvo Penta 3.0

 

[ESGWheel]

Dash, The best video I have found for how this distributor is aligned is at this link. While for a Mercrusier, I think it’s the same. Watch from about minute 4 onward. Below is a screen shot of that video showing the alignment when fully seated.

In summary: with the No. 1 Cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke – once the distributor is fully seated – the rotor should be pointed at the No. 1 on the distributor cap.

I know this can be frustrating but you are so close. Keep going and if this does not work, post lots of pictures of how you have installed it.

 

[Dash48]

Good information ESG I actually have watched several of moscaian videos and that one is really good and it also helps me to see the rotor point to the number one spark plug I had my spark plugs a little bit different watching Zach garage videos.Niw there correct. here's the update I did get the engine to try and start a little bit I think because the carburetor is flooded it's starting acting like it wants to start but was flooding and I drained the battery so put the charger on it today hopefully I'll get some time tomorrow afternoon to continue my progress thanks for all your help we're almost to the finish line. one question can I start the motor without having to have the ear muffs and water running just for like 5 seconds knowing that I got everything lined up and firing?

 

[ESGWheel]

I am glad that you were able to get it sorted out. I recall you do not have a helper and thus trying to get this started while slightly adjusting the timing and controlling the throttle I am sure proves difficult. While may be too late in the process, a remote starter like this link is a very useful tool in cases like this. You can have the Key On and then go back to the motor and engage the stater at your convenience.

can I start the motor without having to have the ear muffs and water running just for like 5 seconds knowing that I got everything lined up and firing?

No. While I have never tried it, the consensus is that I will burn up the impeller. If the water / muffs are a challenge in your situation you could disconnect the belt to preclude the Raw Water Pump from turning but again only for a very short time period. Best to do the muffs to preclude other issues.

 

[Dash48]

I mentioned in another thread it might have been with bando I have a remote starter of course after 50 years of working on mechanical issues and owning dirt track race cars and building engines I have always used a remote starter as far as trying to start it without water I am new to the Marine engines I have earmuffs so that's not an issue thanks for all your help let's see what happens I'll probably jump back on it tomorrow and see what I can get out of it I need to charge the battery up