Volvo Penta 2015 codes 697, 698, 699

[Chelsmaut]

We have a 2015 cobalt with a Volvo penta. Last year we had an issue with the battery dying replaced that and boat worked great. Now if we go above 30 mph we get a check engine alarm and codes spn 697, 698 and 695 fmi 5. The boat runs great and even above 30 runs fine just the check engine and intermittent beeping comes on any time above 30 mph. Anyone had issues with this???

 

[muc]

We have a 2015 cobalt with a Volvo penta. Last year we had an issue with the battery dying replaced that and boat worked great. Now if we go above 30 mph we get a check engine alarm and codes spn 697, 698 and 695 fmi 5. The boat runs great and even above 30 runs fine just the check engine and intermittent beeping comes on any time above 30 mph. Anyone had issues with this???

Welcome to iBoats! Volvo made many different engines in 2015 and just because the boat is a 2015 doesn't mean the engine is.

The engine serial number is the best way to determine what engine you have and what those codes mean.
What tool are you using to to read these codes?

 

[nickmaute]

Welcome to iBoats! Volvo made many different engines in 2015 and just because the boat is a 2015 doesn't mean the engine is.

The engine serial number is the best way to determine what engine you have and what those codes mean.
What tool are you using to to read these codes?

Our local boat dealer pulled the codes, not sure with which tool. I attached the details.

I believe you put in another post that if you have analog meters, the SPN 697/698/699 could be ignored. We have analog meters, but the speedometer has a small LCD reading. Every meter reports normal range function.

Additional context to this is that we only get the CEL and alarm at about 30mph. The boat starts fine, runs great, no limp or guardian mode.

Our local dealer held the boat for a while, chased the codes, and concluded it was most likely the ECM, but everyone I’ve spoken with doesn’t seem to think the ECM is bad.

I did more research on the “previously active” codes and found the 924 to be a probable issue. Someone in another Volvo or Cobalt thread reported the exact issue. Said new knock sensors?

Also reading more and more, it also sounds like it could be a misfire.

The alarm started last season as our batteries were about done. They eventually died so we replaced both. Since replacing the alarm still sounds but only in that 30mph range.

We have another mechanic looking into it.. checking
-spark plugs
-alternator belt tension
-ground connections
-knock sensors (new mechanic just texted and said both show no voltage)
-fuel

 

[muc]

The engine serial number is the best way to determine what engine you have and what those codes mean.

 

[nickmaute]

The engine serial number is the best way to determine what engine you have and what those codes mean.

They’re low voltage to gauge codes- oil pressure gauge, temperature gauge, trim gauge. I failed to attach the image. Again, our boat is all analog gauges, not digital.

Update since second opinion mechanic
-voltage readings normal, no drops or issues
-plugs look fine but still factory so having them replaced
-auto tensioner is good
-5V is good
-filling with new tank of gas
-knock sensors report no voltage so we are having them replaced.

Hopefully this resolves it

 

[muc]

I believe you put in another post that if you have analog meters, the SPN 697/698/699 could be ignored. We have analog meters, but the speedometer has a small LCD reading. Every meter reports normal range function.

i hope I didn’t post that. If I did I was wrong. Those codes can only be ignored with can bus gauges. If you have analog gauges and also have those codes……….. the gauges won’t be working.
But that only depends on certain serial numbers.
If you read the page that you posted it talks about the variable displacement oil pump. Do you have one of those?

SPN 924 can mean two different things depending on serial number. Neither has anything to do with the knock sensors.

 

[nickmaute]

i hope I didn’t post that. If I did I was wrong. Those codes can only be ignored with can bus gauges. If you have analog gauges and also have those codes……….. the gauges won’t be working.
But that only depends on certain serial numbers.
If you read the page that you posted it talks about the variable displacement oil pump. Do you have one of those?

SPN 924 can mean two different things depending on serial number. Neither has anything to do with the knock sensors.

Correction. We have CAN bus gauges. The speedometer has a small LCD screen where you can toggle through the different readings.

The description we get for SPN 924 is “check engine lamp driver fault” / water in bellows. (Bellows are dry)
There was also a SPN 1213 MIL driver fault.
There was also a knock sensor code stored but I don’t know what SPN that was

Here is a link to a similar problem, similar description as ours: https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1262819-volvo-penta-gas-v8-diagnostic-codes.html

And another:

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1265134-volvo-penta-water-bellows-code-help.html

The latter describes the exact symptoms and a solution they used.

Our engine serial number is A377045. I just know it’s a 5L V8 270hp Volvo Penta

 

[muc]

Thanks for the S/N.
You have a V8-270-C-B it was built in 2012 or 2013 but was put into service in 2015.

The page you posted in the screen shot isn't for your engine. STOP using this diagnostic manual and get a copy of EGC diagnostics part number 7749393. This is why a serial number can be soo important.

Yes, on this engine with can bus (digital) gauges you can disregard SPN 697-698-699 FMI-5 faults.

But remember that a SPN without the FMI can lead you in the wrong direction. Partial information can be faulty information.

Your engine/drive doesn't have a water in bellows sensor so when interpreting that code, make sure you take that into account.

I gave a quick read of the hull truth post you linked. I wonder if it's the poster or the dealer that's wrong. Filling the tank with premium fuel with a no activity KS code is wrong. But, it is a poor way to troubleshoot a excessive activity code. So someone is very confused. Another person talks about using loc-tite when replacing a KS. No. The sealant used can be very important as can the torque used to screw it in. Almost always best to follow the service manual. In this case the new Volvo KS will come with the correct sealant already applied and it gets torqued to 15 ft. lb.

You talk about replacing the KS's. Have they been tested? The test is very easy and fast. Only requires a scan tool and small hammer. If they fail that test there are other tests to do before installing new ones. If your mechanic doesn't know this ---- it might be time to try another mechanic.

But a no activity KS fault is one of the faults that will only set once the engine is over 3000 rpm and certain other parameters are met. But there are others, so we try to never replace parts based on symptoms. Just codes and troubleshooting.

This is why the diagnostic manual will have charts in it that start with this:

The following charts are the limit criteria used by the ECM to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The table is formatted to allow you to determine if the code is valid based on the limit criteria set in the programming used by the ECM.

You talked about misfires. This is something that a lot of people don't understand. ALL these engines will have misfires if the system is working correctly. They just shouldn't have too many. The ECM will throw a code once the limit criteria is reached. You can use a scan tool to check the misfire counter and see what's going on.

 

[nickmaute]

Thanks for the S/N.
You have a V8-270-C-B it was built in 2012 or 2013 but was put into service in 2015.

The page you posted in the screen shot isn't for your engine. STOP using this diagnostic manual and get a copy of EGC diagnostics part number 7749393. This is why a serial number can be soo important.

Yes, on this engine with can bus (digital) gauges you can disregard SPN 697-698-699 FMI-5 faults.

But remember that a SPN without the FMI can lead you in the wrong direction. Partial information can be faulty information.

Your engine/drive doesn't have a water in bellows sensor so when interpreting that code, make sure you take that into account.

I gave a quick read of the hull truth post you linked. I wonder if it's the poster or the dealer that's wrong. Filling the tank with premium fuel with a no activity KS code is wrong. But, it is a poor way to troubleshoot a excessive activity code. So someone is very confused. Another person talks about using loc-tite when replacing a KS. No. The sealant used can be very important as can the torque used to screw it in. Almost always best to follow the service manual. In this case the new Volvo KS will come with the correct sealant already applied and it gets torqued to 15 ft. lb.

You talk about replacing the KS's. Have they been tested? The test is very easy and fast. Only requires a scan tool and small hammer. If they fail that test there are other tests to do before installing new ones. If your mechanic doesn't know this ---- it might be time to try another mechanic.

But a no activity KS fault is one of the faults that will only set once the engine is over 3000 rpm and certain other parameters are met. But there are others, so we try to never replace parts based on symptoms. Just codes and troubleshooting.

This is why the diagnostic manual will have charts in it that start with this:

The following charts are the limit criteria used by the ECM to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The table is formatted to allow you to determine if the code is valid based on the limit criteria set in the programming used by the ECM.

You talked about misfires. This is something that a lot of people don't understand. ALL these engines will have misfires if the system is working correctly. They just shouldn't have too many. The ECM will throw a code once the limit criteria is reached. You can use a scan tool to check the misfire counter and see what's going on.

Thank you for all the additional information.
The knock sensors were tested, and reported no voltage. They were doing the hammer test as well.

The page I attached in one of my earlier posts is the code report from the original mechanic’s computer, but they added the troubleshooting step pages to it.
When they connected the computer to our engine, we were standing there and saw those exact codes, it was just a screenshot they took to include with it.
What is most troubling is the original mechanic and boat dealer chased the 697/698/699 codes to conclude it needed a new ECM, when in reality those codes don’t even apply to our engine.
The new knock sensors were ordered and should be being installed as we speak. I don’t believe the new mechanic is going the loctite route for those.
Will report back shortly.

 

[muc]

Sorry the first dealer steered you wrong. Unfortunately these newer engines can require trained technicians to diagnose them.

 

[Chelsmaut]

Sorry the first dealer steered you wrong. Unfortunately these newer engines can require trained technicians to diagnose them.

I just wanted to jump on and tell you thank you so much! The boat has had the knock sensors replaced and running flawlessly. It really was the help of these threads that saved us from just trusting the first mechanic instructing us to get a new ecm. The knock sensors were around 180 fix vs 3500 for a new ecm. Thank you for a helping hand and guidance with our issue!!

 

[muc]

Two best days of a boat owners life……… Saturday + Sunday

 

[tpenfield]

Two best days of a boat owners life……… Saturday + Sunday

No, no . . . the two best days are the day you buy it and the day you sell it!

 

[creggree]

Thanks for the S/N.
You have a V8-270-C-B it was built in 2012 or 2013 but was put into service in 2015.

The page you posted in the screen shot isn't for your engine. STOP using this diagnostic manual and get a copy of EGC diagnostics part number 7749393. This is why a serial number can be soo important.

Yes, on this engine with can bus (digital) gauges you can disregard SPN 697-698-699 FMI-5 faults.

But remember that a SPN without the FMI can lead you in the wrong direction. Partial information can be faulty information.

Your engine/drive doesn't have a water in bellows sensor so when interpreting that code, make sure you take that into account.

I gave a quick read of the hull truth post you linked. I wonder if it's the poster or the dealer that's wrong. Filling the tank with premium fuel with a no activity KS code is wrong. But, it is a poor way to troubleshoot a excessive activity code. So someone is very confused. Another person talks about using loc-tite when replacing a KS. No. The sealant used can be very important as can the torque used to screw it in. Almost always best to follow the service manual. In this case the new Volvo KS will come with the correct sealant already applied and it gets torqued to 15 ft. lb.

You talk about replacing the KS's. Have they been tested? The test is very easy and fast. Only requires a scan tool and small hammer. If they fail that test there are other tests to do before installing new ones. If your mechanic doesn't know this ---- it might be time to try another mechanic.

But a no activity KS fault is one of the faults that will only set once the engine is over 3000 rpm and certain other parameters are met. But there are others, so we try to never replace parts based on symptoms. Just codes and troubleshooting.

This is why the diagnostic manual will have charts in it that start with this:

The following charts are the limit criteria used by the ECM to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The table is formatted to allow you to determine if the code is valid based on the limit criteria set in the programming used by the ECM.

You talked about misfires. This is something that a lot of people don't understand. ALL these engines will have misfires if the system is working correctly. They just shouldn't have too many. The ECM will throw a code once the limit criteria is reached. You can use a scan tool to check the misfire counter and see what's going on.

This is great information. I have many of the same issues with my 2013 Cobalt 262, with a Volvo Penta V8-380-C-B. For the 2nd time, the check engine alert went off. The first time there were many codes, the local marina cleared them, and I took the boat out twice before the check engine went off again. They ran the scanner, and it's returning codes 698 & 699, which they told me is a low voltage code. They changed the spark plugs, but they said the issues are a "head-scratcher." I'm trying to find another mechanic and am considering buy a scanner. Any recommendations on a scanner and where I can get the correct Volvo guide?

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.

 

[nickmaute]

This is great information. I have many of the same issues with my 2013 Cobalt 262, with a Volvo Penta V8-380-C-B. For the 2nd time, the check engine alert went off. The first time there were many codes, the local marina cleared them, and I took the boat out twice before the check engine went off again. They ran the scanner, and it's returning codes 698 & 699, which they told me is a low voltage code. They changed the spark plugs, but they said the issues are a "head-scratcher." I'm trying to find another mechanic and am considering buy a scanner. Any recommendations on a scanner and where I can get the correct Volvo guide?

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.

Hey- sounds like you’re having the same thing we did, which ended up being an easy fix

When you go out, pay close attention to the gauges when the alarm sounds. What is your voltage meter reading, what RPMs, what speed, etc. If it’s in the 3000-3500 RPM you likely have the same thing we did, and likely why they didn’t go off every time recently

Those 697,698,699 are low voltage codes to gauges. If you have the analog/can-bus gauges, they are not applicable to your boat and can be ignored - hence the head scratcher from the mechanic. Ours told us to buy a new ECM which was going to be about 3 grand and wouldn’t have fixed it, so be thankful yours didn’t do that.

Ours were knock sensors that needed replacing- possibly due to sitting, or bad fuel, but we learned they also go out every few years or so. They cost about $200 for parts & installation, readily available, and we also put a fresh tank of gas in and the alarms stopped.

Hope this helps

 

[muc]

Yes, you need a new mechanic.
Rinda Diacom is the scanner I would recommend.
Input your serial number and Volvo will tell you what manuals are available for your engine.

Manuals & Handbooks | Volvo Penta US

Workshop manuals, owners manuals and service protocols for your engine. Get your manual and service protocol here.

www.volvopenta.com