Volvo 5.7 gxi won't start

[BlastoFriz]

Hi everyone, I'm a new poster but have already gotten lots of great information here. The super quick version of the story is my dad and I have inherited a 1969 23' Reinell cabin cruiser that my grandpa put a brand new Volvo 5.7 gxi into in 2002. It was used into 2003 and then winterized where it sat in storage with 65 gallons of gas!!! We've been trying to get it running. All the bad gas was removed from the tanks and I emptied the fuel filter and replaced. I also have a spare on hand. I replaced the raw water impeller as well and the batteries are brand new (just to list what I've replaced). We can get it to crank but not fully start and turn over. Any suggestions? Could we also have clogged fuel lines? My next thought is to blow out or replace entirely the fuel lines.

Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

Howdy

Need to find out what your NOT getting.
Does the tach move up to 2 or 300 rpm when the motor is being turned over?
Have you tried giving it a ounce of gas down the throttle body?
Do you have 12V at the coil?
Are you seeing any spark at the coil or plugs?

 

[BlastoFriz]

Thanks for the response and suggestions! We'll definitely check those.

 

[BlastoFriz]

Howdy

Need to find out what your NOT getting.
Does the tach move up to 2 or 300 rpm when the motor is being turned over?
Have you tried giving it a ounce of gas down the throttle body?
Do you have 12V at the coil?
Are you seeing any spark at the coil or plugs?

Ok, update! Yes we have voltage at the coil and yes the tach moves when attempting to start (never above 1000 rpm, I would say about 3-500). We cleaned all the fuel lines and flushed with fresh gas (non ethanol). Something I picked up on - the old fuel filter was totally full of the bad gas. Through all these starting attempts, I pulled the new fuel filter and its bone dry. We think it's fuel pump(s) at this point. Whether they're stuck, bad, failing, whatever. Do you have any suggestions? Also really stupid question - what the heck is the schrader valve on the one pump for???

Thanks!

 

[alldodge]

Start with the anti siphon valve which is a barbed fitting on top the fuel tank. The rubber fuel line is connected to it, and inside it is a spring and ball. It is designed to keep the tank being siphoned dry if there is a fuel leak. Flush and blow out all the lines, and replace the fuel filter and pre fill before trying to bleed the air out.

The shrader valve on the pump is for measuring fuel pressure and also for bleeding the air out

 

[BlastoFriz]

The lines are without a doubt clean and providing fuel. But we couldn't track down the anti siphon, (will a boat this old have one?). We tried pre filling the fuel filter and it still won't start. It also seemed to have the same amount of fuel we pre filled it with. I noticed the two pumps felt warm to the touch even after a couple start attempts. Also for what it's worth, we put a gauge on the pressure valve and it was zero. Something tells me zero would be bad...

Thanks again!

 

[BlastoFriz]

Checked the fuel pump fuse too and it's good, forgot to mention that.

 

[alldodge]

It should have the antisiphon valve but may have been replaced by a straight barbed fitting.
http://www.iboats.com/Seachoice-Anti...iew_id.1695038

Suggest next remove the pump assembly and see if you can clean it out. Could even attach a line to it in a gas can and see if you can get it to pump that way. If that doesn't help then its rebuild time.
New pump 21608511 and rebuild kit found on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/i/262525112937?chn=ps&dispItem=1

 

[BlastoFriz]

Ah! Thanks for the links, I wasn't completely understanding the valve and fitting. We'll go forward with testing the fuel pump and possibly the rebuild route too.

 

[mklearl]

I've been there before. I inherited a boat with a 1998 5.0gi with 150 gallons of gas that had been sitting for 12 years. I feel your pain. I dumped a little gas down the tbi and it started. I actually added too much has at first so it was flooded. I moved the throttle all the way up and it fired up. It wouldn't stay running because the injectors weren't spraying fuel. I sent those out to be xleaned, flowed and matched. Turns out that wasn't the problem either. The high pressure pump was dead. So what was suggested by people above . That will avoid you dumping unnecessary parts and $$ into it. The gas in the tbi worked for me... I knew it was a fuel issue. Don't use starter fluid... A couple tablespoons of gas. Good luck!

 

[BlastoFriz]

So an update - we're still convinced the pumps are faulty to some degree - still going to pull them and test, but haven't been able. We decided to go through a few electrical troubleshooting steps and test the relay/relay pins and check fuses and check voltage at the pumps. All fuses look good. On the power connections at both pumps, we read 12.4v when we turned the ignition on for just a quick second and then it dropped to 0. Is that how they're supposed to be? I'm guessing if those connections were continually 12v, the pumps would always be running??? But then again, if they were priming themselves and running properly, it seems they'd get voltage for longer. Maybe someone with better knowledge can help describe the behavior.

 

[alldodge]

Pump should stay on for at least 2 seconds

 

[BlastoFriz]

So to test voltage properly, I disconnect the pumps power connectors, turn the key from off to accessory (not fully attempt a start) and we should in fact get ~12v for at least 2 seconds? Just repeating to make sure I'm not doing something nutty...

 

[alldodge]

Yes, or just listen for the pump to turn ON/OFF

 

[BlastoFriz]

Ok, update - we still can't seem to get the engine running. I had the fuel pump assembly rebuilt and both pumps replaced. They were definitely seized. We checked the spark plugs and they are sparking. We actually got the engine running with the gas down the throttle body trick, but it limps along. We can keep it going awkwardly by adding gas in the throttle body but it eventually dies out on its own. I feel like we're so close. Any thoughts? Thanks for the feedback.

 

[BlastoFriz]

Also, I have correct pressures at the low pump and at the fuel rail.

 

[alldodge]

Your getting into the area where it would be best to have the engine scanned for codes.

You have pressure but the ECM is not turning ON the injectors, or they are being turned ON but they are clogged. Are you seeing any kind of fuel coming out of the injectors?

When the engine is cranking or running while pouring gas in, does the tachometer move up?

 

[BlastoFriz]

The tach was moving while starting and running, but I couldn't tell you at what RPM off the top of my head, I'd have to check again. We have not taken apart the fuel rail to check the injectors - can those be easily removed and cleaned?

 

[alldodge]

Doing a more thinking, I keep forgetting you have 8 injectors and not just 2 in the TB. So this says that none of the injectors are firing, and doubt all 8 would be clogged.

What is your pressure at the fuel rail, and did you bleed the fuel rail after replacing the pumps?

 

[BlastoFriz]

Fuel rail pressure comes in around 60 psi when the key is turned and the pumps are priming and then drops to about 50 when cranking. I didn't bleed the fuel rail after putting the pump assembly back on.