Voltage regulator #0581065 with two cables only (yellow and yellow/grey)

[HansAA]

My engine: 1977 55hp evinrude.

Problem: Voltage too high (16/17V) during normal transit rpm, AND the battery is of a modern boat/camping type. Closed, maintenance free.

Came over this regulator from a -72 50hp johnson with two cables coming out of it. One is pure yellow, the other yellow and grey. I tried hooking it up to the terminals with the same colour code from the rectifier. Is this right? I've seen other two-cable regulators with one yellow and red cable...
Once in a while the voltage drops down to about 13V, may be the regulator is bad?
I'm not an electro guy.

 

[F_R]

That two-wire 50hp regulator was used with the AC lighting system on the manual start models. I'm not sure what the effect would be if used on the electric start's charging system. But yes, IF it is compatible, the hookup should be as you described. At least that is how it was connected on the manual start (but without the rectifier)

EDIT: In case you are wondering how it could work with only two wires, it actually has three. The mounting bolts to ground act as the third 'wire".

 

[Vic.S]

Two common types of unregulated rectifier ITYWF

Three wire type has yellow and yellow/ grey, which are the AC input from the stator coil, and red which is the DC positive output.

Four wire type has yellow, yellow/grey.and yellow/blue, which are the AC input, and red which is the DC positive.

In both the case/mounting is the DC negative.

Later replacement rectifiers may just have plain yellow leads for the AC input as they are interchangeable.

Yes you can hook up a three wire rectifier to just two of the three wires normally connected to a four wire rectifier but I think you should use the correct pairing. Either connect to yellow and yellow/grey or to yellow/grey and yellow/blue. Not between yellow and yellow/blue. (Although the four wire rectifier is a 3 phase rectifier the output from the stator is not a true three phase output).

If you hook up in this way you will only get about half the current output that you will using the correct rectifier but you may still find the battery volts rise to a high figure.

The only totally satisfactory solution is to fit the correct rectifier and an add on regulator . Dunno if it would be possible to fit a rectifier/regulator as they are usually water cooled although a small number of models, esp some of the newer rebadged ones, have air cooled rectifier/regulators ITYWF.

I cannot advise what to look for specifically though.

 

[F_R]

If you want to fix the overcharging correctly, install a CDI part number 193-3408 (not 153-3408). 193-3408 is a REGULATED RECTIFIER to replace the old 153-3408 unregulated one. Check to see if iboats has it. (They need to, if they don't).