Voltage low code 4602-32

[alldodge]

"FAULT BLOCKER: SYSTEM VOLTAGE
You need to turn your battery switch on. The PCM can wake because CLEAN POWER is provided (as required) via direct connection to the battery. However, MPR voltage is not present because you have the battery switch "off".

In this case, almost certainly caused by a "user error". Turn key off, properly supply battery connection (via switch) and the fault should no longer be actively displayed."

Sorry but no, the codes were seen on VV after keys turned OFF and then Bat switches turned OFF, then and only then did the error show up on VV

VV should be powering down when Bat switches are turned off, but it's not

 

[alldodge]

Wonder if VV would totally clear if Bat cables are disconnected?

Will verify tomorrow when new Bats come in

 

[alldodge]

Think you were on to something @dingbat in part.
It all started with setting up 1stMate. I tried twice to get the motors to shut down. Ended up with 4 faults, 2 lanyard and 2 low voltage. I could clear the lanyard but not voltage

At boat this AM VV remained ON and displayed code. I pulled 2 fuses from each start Bat, 5A (keep alive) and 7.5A (assume bilge pump). VV went dark, reinstalled fuses and VV remained dark. Turned Bat switches ON all good. Started motors and then shut down and VV displayed "powering down"

I then got notification Bats coming early so I had to head back to the house because signature required. Will check more once Bats show up

 

[alldodge]

Going in boat today and they are heavy, 77lb

 

[tpenfield]

Just catching up to this thread. I got the same fault code on my starboard engine when testing out my new batteries. (4602-23) . . . It complained about voltage, blah, blah, blah.

There was not much of a description to the error code on my Diacom, but I was able to clear it.

 

[alldodge]

Bats all changed out, and dang they are heavy

Plugged charger in and set to AGM, and go figure it still switched back to LA

 

[dubs283]

Still curious as to your final experience with the issue here

Makes sense with the clean power theory, it's constant and most wiring diagrams show the positive (red/black) connected to a J plug and the 14 pin. 12V (+) to ecm/helm respectively, guessing that means power to smartcraft/VV? VV standard default is to power itself down completely even with the required clean power connection

I've never fully troubleshot similar issues with boats as I'm busy and the issue ime "resolves itself" - no sticky fault, no continuing alarm, no customer complaint, etc...with key switches off and battery switches off means I get to work on some other boat ranging from 1950's to present. Makes for a lot of strands of information in my limited capacity brain to sort out

My theory would be with the new device linked to smartcraft (1st mate) and the system being run for a while under factory/dealer/customer setup the system takes a bit to "learn" the new adaptation? Although with your first attempt at shutdown only one engine stopped correctly with a fault on the other one is a bit skeptical, no? Plug and play my rear!

There's a lot of information going along the CAN lines for smart craft, add dts and its more than double what we've seen in the recent past. Takes a minute or two for the system to integrate properly. Miss one j box connection, install the wrong terminator, not realize the system needs an update or find one teeny bit of corrosion at a connector and it gets frustrating real quick

 

[alldodge]

Do agree it got frustrating quick. I installed 1stmate (1st) with a NEMA connection at first while I was also installing the VHF which also used NEMA. Could be where I got into trouble is reading forum comments about 1st not using the NEMA connection even when connected.

Others had contacted 1st support and they received the same response as I did stating it was not currently used. If it's not used why connect it was my thought. The manual states if 1st needs to be reset after MOB to press the button on the unit. Where I installed I would have to remove VV and maybe left display just to reach the button. So after it messed up I'm probably not going to try again

Maybe I should have kept NEMA connected and just maybe it would have worked, don't know. Why did I get the low voltage reading along with lanyard stop, again don't know for sure. Doing several thing like measuring voltages, turning Bats on/off during testing I did try to start at least once with Bats off.

Might have been the original mixed Bats and charge settings. After replacing all Bats with AGM, motors started and stopped with no codes. Turned Bats off and set charger to AGM, then got side tracked on another issue. Turned keys on again and got the long beep, dang forgot the Bat switches. Turned keys off, turned Bats on and retried the keys. All good and code was not displayed and VV powered down.

Again puzzling, but just guessing it's a mix bag and maybe that's what the original cause was. Mixed Bats, NEMA, charger setting, no idea.

My boat does not require a kill switch but does have a lanyard by Regs (over 25ft). Then I'm reading things from others that it works great but keep extra FOB Bats onboard. Would have been a nice safety thing to add

Until next problem shows, thanks guys