Vaseline hull application

skargo

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Re: Vaseline hull application

Rubbed in a thin coat on & left it a few hrs & hand "buffed" it out-
Looks 110% better :cool:
Time will tell :confused:

You really should leave it on for days, not hours.

Here's a shot of mine from today, 8 weeks or so post vaseline.

6020_256975555651_554955651_8181506_6501283_n.jpg
 

wca_tim

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Re: Vaseline hull application

this isn't a rant, but just something to consider.

the primary difference between vasoline and wax is that vasoline is mainly a viscous liquid at room temperature, while wax is a solid. I will bet that over time, the vasoline liquid you soak the gel with, will help dirt soak in much like a liquid is used to swell fibers in order to transport dye into it, I have a strong feeling that over a long period of time, especially if you have a light colored boat, you may regret using it (think permanent waterline stain, etec...). it's really very much like using johnson's paste wax except the vasoline won't ever dry and make a barrier - against anything but water - oil based stains will dissolve and move with it.

oh, since it is a liquid, dirt will always stick to it, unlike waxes which are solids once the solvents evaporate.

just some food for thought
 

skargo

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Re: Vaseline hull application

this isn't a rant, but just something to consider.

the primary difference between vasoline and wax is that vasoline is mainly a viscous liquid at room temperature, while wax is a solid. I will bet that over time, the vasoline liquid you soak the gel with, will help dirt soak in much like a liquid is used to swell fibers in order to transport dye into it, I have a strong feeling that over a long period of time, especially if you have a light colored boat, you may regret using it (think permanent waterline stain, etec...). it's really very much like using johnson's paste wax except the vasoline won't ever dry and make a barrier - against anything but water - oil based stains will dissolve and move with it.

oh, since it is a liquid, dirt will always stick to it, unlike waxes which are solids once the solvents evaporate.

just some food for thought
Maybe try it before you make guesses. It does soak in, but it certainly does NOT help dirt soak into it. People say they think stuff will stick to it. It doesn't. Vaseline DOES dry, and it works.

Besides, the original poster asked for people's experiences who used it, not bets, guesses, and hypothesis's. ;)


Please, read this post,
http://forums.iboats.com/showpost.php?p=2211531&postcount=23


The whole question about weather Vaseline will cause any damage is bogus in my opinion. And here's why:

Oxidation of paint occurs when the protective layer on the paint, weather is the clear coat or a wax, is depleated and oxygen is allowed to attack the free radicals in the chemical structure of the paint mixture. This gives you the dull and chalky look. Adding a wax coat every so often replentishes the protective coat on the paint keeping the oxygen out. The point here is that you have to keep a protective coat on the paint. If you don't periodically re-apply wax or vaseline, the protective coat wears away and oxidation will begin occuring.

As for the chemical differences in a store bought boat wax or vaseline there's not much. Most store bought waxes contain any or all of the following in varrying proportions:

carnuba wax (derived from leaves)
bees wax (you can guess where that comes from)
kaolin (clay/filler)
isoparaffinic hydrocarbons (basically paraffin wax)


Carnuba wax itself is a very hard wax once it is fully extracted from the carnuba leaves. Therfore in order to make it into a "workable" wax, a paraffin wax or bees wax must be mixed into it.

So what is paraffin wax? Well it is a petroleum based long chain hydrocarbon with chain lengths anywhere from the C20H42 to the C40H82 range. (basically that's the number of Carbons in the molecule) Having said that, Vaseline or petroleum jelly, is a petroleum based long chain hydrocarbon with a chain length in the C25H54 range. What does that mean? Vaseline is a paraffinic wax.

So why the differing results from a carnuba type wax versus Vaseline. Like I said earlier it is because carnuba is a harder wax. As you buff it, the wax plasticizes giving it a glassy look. The softer paraffin wax like vaseline won't plasticize in the same way.

Now with all the technical crap out of the way, what's the point? The point is to keep oxidation off of you boat, periodically put some protectant on your hull. If this means you enjoy and have the time to spend hours buffing and polishing a store bought name brand wax on your boat to get a high gloss shine, do it. If you don't want to spend the time or effort buffing and polishing and you don't need to see that glossy shine, use the Vaseline. Just do something and don't let the oxidation start in the first place.
 

wca_tim

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Re: Vaseline hull application

Tell you what, if it works for you, great, but there are a ton better products out there - especially once the gelcoat is already oxidized as in the situations we're dealing with.
 

skargo

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Re: Vaseline hull application

you're touting vaseline as a panacea for gelcoat restoration and care in a "public" venue. Don't expect that someone isn't going to call you out on it a little or at least share information that may suggest something different (in a friendly way of course).

Is going to be a huge problem? probably not for most, but you never know, perhaps if you want to paint later, it'll be awful hard to ever get the surface degreased properly to get a good paint job on it. Perhaps it'll let the dirt and so forth that comes in contact with the hull become imbedded in the pores of the resin and leade to premature fading, staining or discoloration. There is a tremendous body of scientific work in areas of coatings, surfaces, resins and the processes by which things are transported into and out of them. A tremendous amount of work has gone into the development, understanding and care of styrene polyester based plastics (gel coat). If vaseline really was such a wonderful product for the restoration and the long term care of faded gelcoat - don't you think Meguire's would bottle it and sell it under their own label? (It would sure cut down on production costs) I know for a fact that they don't.

Food for thought,

Respectfully submitted.


ps. If you want some references, send me a pm and I'll see what I can dig up.

Do you have any clue how bodywork prep and painting works? I do, as I ran a bodyshop for the past 5 years.
You all seem to think vaseline has petroleum in it because it's called petroleum jelly, well most distillates are removed in the manufacturing process, it's more wax than "grease."

ALL surfaces must be degreased and cleaned as part of prepping for paint, no matter what's been used on it. DO you really think vaseline will be hard to remove?!?!LOL.

Seriously, if you haven't used it, maybe stick to your own experiences, we already have someone here taking the job of posting up what he doesn't know about, ie Vaseline, recommending bleeding Bennett tabs, recommending clear bowls on fuel water separators on I/Os etc. etc. etc.

The original poster asked for people with experience USING Vaseline, not people making guesses ;)
 

bigbad 4cyl x2

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: Vaseline hull application

ive had some experiances with real shady body shops
 

a70eliminator

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Re: Vaseline hull application

I have a 1990 chaparral 20' bowrider, the red gelcoat was faded pink when I bought it, I used an electic high speed buffer and a 7" wheel along with a gallon of Meguires oxidation remover, I buffed my butt off and burned out that buffer, it took me a week or so but it looked like brand new shiny smooth slippery could see my reflection, however my buffer had burnt up before I was completely finished and resulted in a so so area about the stern, it is shiny but still has some blotchy pinkness to it.
I smeared on some VASELINE and left it sit, next day it looked the same no difference at all, I think because I had already buffed and waxed the area prior to putting it on.
Now just recently I pulled out my old 67' gelcoat faded MFG 16' I smeared the vaseline on the unbuffed unwaxed faded hull and it made an incredible difference and it only took 1/2 hr! Shes been sitting for 2 weeks now under a cover and last night I took it out fishing, it looks better than ever, but last night with the lanterns going had 10 million little bugs sticking to it so today I'm going to wipe it down and see what happens, it was slippery as heck getting in and out.
 

bigbad 4cyl x2

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Re: Vaseline hull application

you could probbobly rub linseed oil all over your boat too :

vaseline ingrediants ;

Ingredient Glossary
BORAGO OFFICINALIS SEED OIL
An emollient; specifically, a botanical oil rich in triglycerides (which are building blocks of skin lipids) and antioxidants (which are a part of nature's defense and repair mechanisms).

BUTYLENE GLYCOL
A humectant material that binds with water molecues and holds them in skin cells.

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
An emollient; helps seak in moisture and gives your skin a smooth feel.

CARBOMER
A thickener; gives lotion a thick, rich feel.

CETYL ALCOHOL
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

CLYCERYL STEARATE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE
A silicone; gives lotion a smooth, skily feel.

DIMETHICONE
An occlusive emollient material made from silicone, dimethicone helps seal in moisture and gives your skin a smooth feel.

DISODIUM EDTA
A preservative; essential to keep lotion fresh every time you want to use it.

DISTEARLYDIMONIUM CHLORIDE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product This particular emulsifier iteracts with the skin surface to provide a silky skin feel.

DMDM HYDANTOIN
A preservative; essential to keep lotion fresh every time you want to use it.

ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE
An odor neutralizer to help mask any unpleasant odors from certain essential ingredients. Because Intensive Rescue products are unfragranced, they do not hide their ingredients behind a wall of heavy perfume.

GLYCERIN
A humectant or "water magnet" that binds with water molecules and holds them in skin cells. Glycerin effectively replicates the role of your skin's own natural moisturizing factor.

GLYCERYL STEARATE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) STEROL
An emollient; specifically, a botanical oil rich in triglycerides (which are building blocks of skin lipids) and antioxidants (which are a part of nature's defense and repair mechanisms).

GLYCOL STEARATE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL
An emollient; specifically, a botanical oil rich in triglycerides (which are building blocks of skin lipids) and antioxidants (which are a part of nature's defense and repair mechanisms).

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
A thickener; gives lotion a thick, rich feel.

ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE
An emollient and humectant; helps seak in moisture and gives your skin a smooth feel.

ISOPROPYL PALMITATE
An emollient; helps seal in moisture and gives your skin a smooth feel.

LACTIC ACID
An Alpha Hydroxy Acid that helps soften hard calloused skin.

LECITHIN
A natural phospholipid known to be an important component of healthy cell membranes.

LINOLEIC ACID
An essential fatty acid known to be a building block for skin ceramides (which are components of a healthy lipid barrier).

LINOLENIC ACID
An essential fatty acid that is a building block for skin ceramides (which are components of a healthy lipid barrier).

MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE
A structurant (or a thickener) to give the lotion a rich, elegant consistency. Structurants add thickness to the formula without adding heaviness or stickiness to the lotion.

METHYLPARABEN
A preservative; essential to keep lotion fresh every time you want to use it.

MINERAL OIL
An emollient; helps seak in moisture and gives your skin a smooth feel.

PEG-100 STEARATE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

PETROLATUM
Pure Vaseline Petroleum Jelly has been caring for skin over 130 years. It is an occlusive emollient that seals water within your skin and its cells. Petrolatum fills in for lost lipids to help restore skin's all-important barrier function - keeping the outside world out, and the moisture in.

PHENOXYETHANOL
A preservative; essential to keep lotion fresh every time you want to use it.

POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE
A neutralizing agent used to maintain the pH of lotions.

POTASSIUM LACTATE
Used to maintain the pH of the AHA at an effective level.

PROPYLPARABEN
A preservative; essential to keep lotion fresh every time you want to use it.

SODIUM CHLORIDE
Works with cationic emulsifer.

SODIUM HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE
A thickener; gives lotion a thick, rich feel.

STEARETH-21
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

STEARIC ACID
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

STEARYL STEARATE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

TAPIOCA STARCH
A thickener; this particular thickener gives lotion a smooth, silky feel.

TITANIUM DIOXIDE
An opacifier that helps bring out the clean white color of the lotion.

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE (VITAMIN E ACETATE)
A material naturally found in skin as a natural anti-oxidant.

TRIETHANOLAMINE
An emulsifier; an ingredient that helps to hold the lotion together. These ingredients are what keep all the other ingredients blended together in a smooth, creamy product.

WATER
Water is fundamentally essential to quickly restore the flexibility of your skin's dry surface layers, but it requires additional ingredients to keep it locked in.

XANTHAN GUM
A thickener; gives lotion a thick, rich feel.
 

bigbad 4cyl x2

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: Vaseline hull application

when you have a chalked hull ,you would either need to start with a wool pad or a fine sand paper with water
 

bigbad 4cyl x2

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Re: Vaseline hull application

Do you have any clue how bodywork prep and painting works? I do, as I ran a bodyshop for the past 5 years.
,

yea you would shoot a sealer coat after you took it down to bare metal . ok ill be happy when you sell a customer on a vaseline top coat instead of a clear coat . better yet . one of your insurance companys reps . ------------no now were using vaseline instead of clear coat........ lol
 

skargo

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Re: Vaseline hull application

Gotta love the sarcastic know it alls who post contrary opinions when they have never tried it LMAO.

Who ever said vaseline was a substitute for clear coat????????? :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Some people need to go back to school and freshen up on their reading comprehension.

A bunch of you have no respect for what people ask, example???

Could we get a thread going on specifics on application and what has yielded the best results for you. I have searched all threads but have not come up with a concrete way of application. Ive applied it to a small area and after only letting it sit for a couple hours and I'm very pleased and it has already out shined everything I've tried before but want to know the best way to do it. This is not a thread to voice your opinion on using Vaseline but simply results and application for those who have already used it.

There, maybe I made it easy for some of you with diminished mental capacity ;)
 

wca_tim

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Re: Vaseline hull application

I'm not going to beat this to death - I've got gas to burn today. You make some good points as does the post you pasted in.

Oxidized gelcoat is a very different animal than faded auto paint. Gelcoat is porous after oxidized - much more so than auto paint and it is much thicker - it soaks up oils and greases like a sponge, and they're hard as heck to remove completely. Even if you get the surface clean enough for the paint to lay down right, the presence of involatile liquid fractions below the surface can lead to delamination of paint over time. Why do you think sooo many of the clear / metalflake boats that are clearcloated... peel and flake over time - it takes a major effort to properly degrease them, much more so than auto paint and more so than most people do before painting over heavily oxidized gelcoat. Burying it in Vaseline really will probably make it a lot worse. Note that the same (or worse) can be said for some of the wax products out there.

The post above highlights the importance of putting anything on unoxidized gelcoat to try to occlude oxygen and keep damage to a minimum. Once oxidation has occurred to a significant degree, the rules change, the surface and the resin are different. products designed to adhere and protect them include not only saturated hydrocarbons (ie solvents and oils), but other compounds designed to interact strongly with the functional groups produced upon oxidation. Even natural "wax" products are primarily fatty acids, fatty acid esters, diols, and antioxidants. for example carnuba wax contains relatively large amounts of cinnamic acid - a fairly strong antioxidant which adds real protection from oxidation. Note also that the paraffinic waxes bended with natural waxes in commercial products, are actually higher molecular weight than Vaseline and are solids at room temperature. try putting a dab of Vaseline on the counter and see how long it takes to dry.

So Vaseline will probably not hurt a thing and will make your boat shinier for a while, and it really won't dry - which may not be all bad. You can shine your car with wd-40, but it isn't the best option for the job. Have I tried wd-40 to shine my car? nope, I know better without having to...

Me? I currently play at body and paint work on occasion and worked in a body shop for a few years longer ago than I'd like to admit - definitely not a professional... Professionally I design resins, coatings, surfaces and study related fundamental science.

The sun is shining and it's time to go burn some gas! enjoy the day
 

wca_tim

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Re: Vaseline hull application

There, maybe I made it easy for some of you with diminished mental capacity ;)

Lighten up there charlie brown, you ought to know you can't throw something out there with a crowd like this and expect people not to chime in with whatever they think... :D
 

wca_tim

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Re: Vaseline hull application

sorry to be a fly in the vaseline so to speak... i mean the vaseline intensive care lotion ingredient list above... (sorry big bad 4x2) vasoline is really just a clean heav cut from petroleum separated by vacuum distillation and doesn't have any of those other ingredients in it.

OH, and let's be honest here. the reason so many of us would be afraid to admit that it might work... is because there ain't no way we're gonna be seen buying multiple large containers of it, nor have it on the boat. what would people THINK we were using it for?:eek:
 

a70eliminator

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Re: Vaseline hull application

If I ever decide to restore my old MFG fishing boat, that vaseline application is a drop in the bucket I'm not even a little concerned. For now it's an affordable alternative, and my arthritic shoulder thanks me.
THUMBS UP !!
 

bigbad 4cyl x2

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skargo

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Re: Vaseline hull application

sorry to be a fly in the vaseline so to speak... i mean the vaseline intensive care lotion ingredient list above... (sorry big bad 4x2) vasoline is really just a clean heav cut from petroleum separated by vacuum distillation and doesn't have any of those other ingredients in it.

OH, and let's be honest here. the reason so many of us would be afraid to admit that it might work... is because there ain't no way we're gonna be seen buying multiple large containers of it, nor have it on the boat. what would people THINK we were using it for?:eek:

LOL, this post made me crack up :D
 

xxturbowesxx

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Re: Vaseline hull application

It works simple but it is a quick fix but I will say I've tried polish,spent $70 on a poliglow system and still wasn't happy. even if i have to reapply this stuff every month it is worth it to me. BTW the contents listed are not for Vaseline they are for the lotion they make. Vaseline's only ingredient is white petrolatum USP 100%..
 

WAVENBYE2

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Re: Vaseline hull application

As long as IT DOES remove the oxidation I will try it too, I have spent who knows on all the BEST MARINE PRODUCTS & auto to just get frustrated in the end and still have to redo my boat every two weeks because it looked like I haven't done nothing to it ARRRG!! I have done exactly what the directions said to do and I get tired of doing it every two weeks(I MEAN HOURS) of washing and polishing when I should be out boating or working on other things on the boat I want to get done, I already bought a jar af vaseline and if it is going to save me the time every two weeks of killing my self to get the results then I am sold, If you think its worth it then do it, if not then don't it's that simple. I am smart enough to figure out what works best and what doesn't, I have tried the other ways just to be frustrated later, If it doesn't work for my situation then I will go back to the drawing board and do it the other back breaking way I did before. It's that simple!!
 
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