Upper shift control cable Mercruiser 228

[harringtondav]

Thks Dave -- I am a little confused about the relationship between the Lower shift
lever (plate) and the throttle cable - The throttle cable will only move unless I move it. ?? It is a dual upper helm control box -inboard engine. -- am I missing something
Note - I do try and research for answers to my questions even Iboats but I mostly get info on Outboards.

OK. I assumed you have an I/O with a single lever control which shifts into gear, then moves the throttle. ...probably forgot about your dual control which I think you mentioned earlier.
Anyway, I think you're good to go. Make sure the upper cable stud is in the lower/pivot end of the slot as shown in your pic. If you have unwanted shift interrupts try moving it in the slot a little at a time.
Good luck.

 

[Brock96]

OK. I assumed you have an I/O with a single lever control which shifts into gear, then moves the throttle. ...probably forgot about your dual control which I think you mentioned earlier.
Anyway, I think you're good to go. Make sure the upper cable stud is in the lower/pivot end of the slot as shown in your pic. If you have unwanted shift interrupts try moving it in the slot a little at a time.
Good luck.

Hello - here we go -Engine did not start - nothing when l turned the key - removed the neutral safety switch and it started right way. The helm box has an USC lever and a throttle lever.
Cables set up as is in picture - warmed up engine - running at idle - put in reverse and engine stalled - same as forward.
What I did next was to remove upper cable (USC) from the shift plate - moved LSC to full reverse and then installed the USC to fit ( had to move the barrel to do so - started engine - put in reverse (fingers crossed) and it did not stall - same as forward - so the shift Interrupter switch did not cause it to stall - (my thoughts)
Problem: the Upper Shift lever is all over the map - start engine - in neutral - put in forward gear - returned to idle and it is still in gear - When moving lever to idle the lever clicks into place - had to move shift lever beyond neutral to get it into neutral
The USC is stiff - when installing it I had to twist it to fit - job # 1 to fix
Questions
I am not sure what you mean by the USC Stud is in the lower/pivot end of the slot - I see a slot on the LSC plate - The USC is grey.
Would this confirm that the Lower shift cable is not the problem.
Can the Cable system be adjusted - I am searching for any adjustment specs.
Any thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated. getting closer

 

[harringtondav]

Hello - here we go -Engine did not start - nothing when l turned the key - removed the neutral safety switch and it started right way. The helm box has an USC lever and a throttle lever.
Cables set up as is in picture - warmed up engine - running at idle - put in reverse and engine stalled - same as forward.
What I did next was to remove upper cable (USC) from the shift plate - moved LSC to full reverse and then installed the USC to fit ( had to move the barrel to do so - started engine - put in reverse (fingers crossed) and it did not stall - same as forward - so the shift Interrupter switch did not cause it to stall - (my thoughts)
Problem: the Upper Shift lever is all over the map - start engine - in neutral - put in forward gear - returned to idle and it is still in gear - When moving lever to idle the lever clicks into place - had to move shift lever beyond neutral to get it into neutral
The USC is stiff - when installing it I had to twist it to fit - job # 1 to fix
Questions
I am not sure what you mean by the USC Stud is in the lower/pivot end of the slot - I see a slot on the LSC plate - The USC is grey.
Would this confirm that the Lower shift cable is not the problem.
Can the Cable system be adjusted - I am searching for any adjustment specs.
Any thoughts or comments are greatly appreciated. getting closer

I mistyped. The slotted hole is for the lower shift cable. ...more on that below.
I'm assuming your boat started and shifted OK before the upper shift cable failed. If so all your issues are likely to the new cable and its installation.
If you have to disconnect the neutral safety switch to start you may have accidentally disturbed the safety switch's position. If not, the shift control lever is not at the neutral dentent. Find the controller's neutral position by disconnecting the USC from the shift plate lever and move the control lever until the engine starts. This is official controller neutral. If this is not in the console's detent you'll need to tweak the safety switch position to line up.
Now find outdrive neutral by shifting the shift plate lever into both FWD and REV with the engine running and USC disconnected. Mark with a Sharpie or something the lever's position in both gears. Move the plate lever to neutral between the two marks. This is official lower shift cable neutral.
Readjust the USC to line up with the shift lever at this neutral position. ...my Alpha II manual says to hold the cable housing and pull the cable core fully out to remove any slack before connecting it. Try this and see if it operates correctly. If it engages in one gear and not the other adjust the cable to bias the lever to the gear that doesn't engage.
Factory perfect cables and adjustment have the LSC in the bottom of the lever's slotted hole. The slotted hole adjusts the LSC's travel. Too low will cause insufficient cable travel and the outdrive won't engage in gear. Too high will cause excess LSC travel and stretch the cable housing causing the shift interrupt switch to close and kill the engine. Since your new cable is slightly shorter than the original you may have to raise the LSC up in the slot to get more travel.

 

[Brock96]

I mistyped. The slotted hole is for the lower shift cable. ...more on that below.
I'm assuming your boat started and shifted OK before the upper shift cable failed. If so all your issues are likely to the new cable and its installation.
If you have to disconnect the neutral safety switch to start you may have accidentally disturbed the safety switch's position. If not, the shift control lever is not at the neutral dentent. Find the controller's neutral position by disconnecting the USC from the shift plate lever and move the control lever until the engine starts. This is official controller neutral. If this is not in the console's detent you'll need to tweak the safety switch position to line up.
Now find outdrive neutral by shifting the shift plate lever into both FWD and REV with the engine running and USC disconnected. Mark with a Sharpie or something the lever's position in both gears. Move the plate lever to neutral between the two marks. This is official lower shift cable neutral.
Readjust the USC to line up with the shift lever at this neutral position. ...my Alpha II manual says to hold the cable housing and pull the cable core fully out to remove any slack before connecting it. Try this and see if it operates correctly. If it engages in one gear and not the other adjust the cable to bias the lever to the gear that doesn't engage.
Factory perfect cables and adjustment have the LSC in the bottom of the lever's slotted hole. The slotted hole adjusts the LSC's travel. Too low will cause insufficient cable travel and the outdrive won't engage in gear. Too high will cause excess LSC travel and stretch the cable housing causing the shift interrupt switch to close and kill the engine. Since your new cable is slightly shorter than the original you may have to raise the LSC up in the slot to get more travel.

Hello and thank you --- The boat has had the stalling problem, when put into gear for a couple of years. The only way I found to stop the stalling was to jack up the RPMs. This cause a very loud bang from the Outdrive.
Will start by fixing the cable problem (needed to twist the cable attachment) and then reinstall the neutral safety switch- There was a lot of crap on the switch so I cleaned it - then try to find the neutral position - then go from there
Bad weather coming right now so I will get back to you shortly - Thanks again for your all your help

 

[harringtondav]

Hello and thank you --- The boat has had the stalling problem, when put into gear for a couple of years. The only way I found to stop the stalling was to jack up the RPMs. This cause a very loud bang from the Outdrive.

Good to know. This indicates a bad lower shift cable, or misadjustment in the shift plate adjustment upper or lower shift cables. The shift interrupter switch was/is closing before the drive is in gear.
Since you mentioned above that you could manually shift the drive into F & R by moving the shift plate lever without killing the engine, the lower cable's adjustment should be good.
You should be able to move the disconnected lower shift cable fully in both directions with little resistance using two fingers.
So let's hope the properly adjusted new upper cable fixes this. But you have to get this problem fixed. Forcing a shift over 700 rpm will eventually take out the lower shift cable (expensive repair), or damage the dog clutch and F-R gear set (very expensive repair).

 

[Brock96]

Good to know. This indicates a bad lower shift cable, or misadjustment in the shift plate adjustment upper or lower shift cables. The shift interrupter switch was/is closing before the drive is in gear.
Since you mentioned above that you could manually shift the drive into F & R by moving the shift plate lever without killing the engine, the lower cable's adjustment should be good.
You should be able to move the disconnected lower shift cable fully in both directions with little resistance using two fingers.
So let's hope the properly adjusted new upper cable fixes this. But you have to get this problem fixed. Forcing a shift over 700 rpm will eventually take out the lower shift cable (expensive repair), or damage the dog clutch and F-R gear set (very expensive repair).

Sorry I failed to mention that I was using the Helm control box lever to change from forward to reverse without it stalling and I also lowered the rpm of the engine. but when I changed from forward to neutral using the upper shift lever it was still in gear - I had to move the lever further towards reverse to get the drive into neutral -
I have not tried to use the LSC lever on the shift plate to change gears USC not attached but l will try later - I believe that I had the drive in its neutral position but the engine was not running Does this mean that the dog clutches were not fully engaged and I should find the drive's true neutral position by changes gears (engine running) using the LSC lever on the plate and the USC not attached. The LSC cable moves freely. Then onto fixing the USC and safety neutral switch. I am going to have someone take videos -
I have read several post - website that the SIS is use only when coming out of gear others say in and out of gear ?
I hope I am not taking up too much of your time

 

[harringtondav]

Sorry I failed to mention that I was using the Helm control box lever to change from forward to reverse without it stalling and I also lowered the rpm of the engine. but when I changed from forward to neutral using the upper shift lever it was still in gear - I had to move the lever further towards reverse to get the drive into neutral -
I have not tried to use the LSC lever on the shift plate to change gears USC not attached but l will try later - I believe that I had the drive in its neutral position but the engine was not running Does this mean that the dog clutches were not fully engaged and I should find the drive's true neutral position by changes gears (engine running) using the LSC lever on the plate and the USC not attached. The LSC cable moves freely. Then onto fixing the USC and safety neutral switch. I am going to have someone take videos -
I have read several post - website that the SIS is use only when coming out of gear others say in and out of gear ?
I hope I am not taking up too much of your time

First, this will be much easier if you have your boat on a trailer. ...when do you plan on this?
"I had to move the lever further towards reverse to get the drive into neutral" I believe this is because you "What I did next was to remove upper cable (USC) from the shift plate - moved LSC to full reverse and then installed the USC to fit ( had to move the barrel to do so". This biased the upper cable's travel to reverse, including lower cable's neutral position which doesn't match up with the console lever's neutral.
Start over with my recommendation in reply #23 to get controller and plate shift lever/lower shift cable neutral to be the same.
"I have read several post - website that the SIS is use only when coming out of gear others say in and out of gear ?" Yes, assuming the shift plate is set up correctly. The dog clutch is self engaging. It draws itself into the FWD and REV gears with tapered teeth. But it doesn't freely disengage when the prop is turning in water. The interrupter switch senses the lower shift cable load and momentarily cuts engine power and torque so the dog clutch will disengage.

 

[Brock96]

First, this will be much easier if you have your boat on a trailer. ...when do you plan on this?
"I had to move the lever further towards reverse to get the drive into neutral" I believe this is because you "What I did next was to remove upper cable (USC) from the shift plate - moved LSC to full reverse and then installed the USC to fit ( had to move the barrel to do so". This biased the upper cable's travel to reverse, including lower cable's neutral position which doesn't match up with the console lever's neutral.
Start over with my recommendation in reply #23 to get controller and plate shift lever/lower shift cable neutral to be the same.
"I have read several post - website that the SIS is use only when coming out of gear others say in and out of gear ?" Yes, assuming the shift plate is set up correctly. The dog clutch is self engaging. It draws itself into the FWD and REV gears with tapered teeth. But it doesn't freely disengage when the prop is turning in water. The interrupter switch senses the lower shift cable load and momentarily cuts engine power and torque so the dog clutch will disengage.

First, this will be much easier if you have your boat on a trailer. ...when do you plan on this?
"I had to move the lever further towards reverse to get the drive into neutral" I believe this is because you "What I did next was to remove upper cable (USC) from the shift plate - moved LSC to full reverse and then installed the USC to fit ( had to move the barrel to do so". This biased the upper cable's travel to reverse, including lower cable's neutral position which doesn't match up with the console lever's neutral.
Start over with my recommendation in reply #23 to get controller and plate shift lever/lower shift cable neutral to be the same.
"I have read several post - website that the SIS is use only when coming out of gear others say in and out of gear ?" Yes, assuming the shift plate is set up correctly. The dog clutch is self engaging. It draws itself into the FWD and REV gears with tapered teeth. But it doesn't freely disengage when the prop is turning in water. The interrupter switch senses the lower shift cable load and momentarily cuts engine power and torque so the dog clutch will disengage.

She comes out of the water on Nov 2nd - l will with the info l have, try to get her shifting properly and if I am not successful l will get her towed over to haul out. Will let you know how I make out. Thanks for all your help

 

[harringtondav]

Thanks for all your help

Shifting adjustments can be like a Rubik's cube. Just when you think you have it solved, something else moves out of adjustment.
I've been coaching you to focus on the upper cable since the lower cable and adjustments seemed to have worked previously. If you find console lever neutral and plate shift neutral I believe you will be good.