Trying to decide between 3 older boats!

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
Hey everyone! So I’m looking to get back on the water this year after selling my old StarCraft a few years ago. Being stuck on land sucks!! I’m going to be using it as a family cruiser and occasional fishing boat for myself, wife, and 3 kids and I’m kinda strictly budgeted here. Anyway, here’s my choices:

1970 Mark Twain 16’ tri hill deluxe (I think it’s a 16, the owner has it listed as a 15’ but I think it may be 16’, as I can only find info on the 16’ tri hulls from mark Twain.) this one looks very well maintained and quite clean for its age. Capacity is stated as 1405 lbs and 6 people. I’m told it’s all solid and water ready. It has a mercury 1000 tower of power on it, looks to be a ‘69 vintage. This one also has a convertible top. Price is $2650.

The second is a 1987 Chris craft cavalier fiberglass bow rider. I’m told it’s solid runs great, and is water ready, just needs a good cleaning. It does look good enough for an 80’s boat. Capacity is unknown. It has a mercruiser 3.0 4 banger in it. Price is $3500.

The third I’m a little less sure of. It’s a 1976 rally 174 bow rider. I don’t know much about the brand, although I’ve seen them here and there. Has a new floor and new seats and looks clean enough. Engine is a 1970’s (‘76?) Johnson 135. But the guys states it won’t go into reverse and is hard to start when it’s cold. He says he thinks the reverse issue is linkage related. I dunno how hard these things would be to fix or if it would be worth even trying, and I don’t have a whole lot of time to mess with stuff like that these days. Too many kids!

The Twain looks the cleanest, which is making me lean toward it, but the Chris is newest. I also am unsure of buying a stern drive, as I have no experience with those. I’ve always heard they are more maintenance intensive and harder to winterize.

Any insight into these models and engines is appreciated as I deliberate!
 
Last edited:

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,166
I'd be hard put to buy any of them. If I simply HAD to go with one because they were the only 3 left I would go with the Chris.

Of course, contingent on a sea trial, inspection to verify its solid and hear the engine run.

Regardless, if you don't have a whole lot of time to mess with, anything that old will usually take a lot of messing.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,037
You should consider all 3 of those as projects, possibly major projects regardless of what the seller says.
 

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
Here’s some pics for reference. Top is the mark Twain, next is the Chris craft, and last is the rally.

23AC670D-975A-4E40-82C8-206397993EA5.jpeg
568BA692-4785-4D00-AFEC-520A5FCA9CF1.jpeg374812D1-37CF-4A69-95E9-C5756435EEC8.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
I'd be hard put to buy any of them. If I simply HAD to go with one because they were the only 3 left I would go with the Chris.

Of course, contingent on a sea trial, inspection to verify its solid and hear the engine run.

Regardless, if you don't have a whole lot of time to mess with, anything that old will usually take a lot of messing.

Yeah they are pretty much my main choices due to price and distance. I owned a 1965 StarCraft 14’ with a merc 350 35hp on it last (that I bought for $400) and have a 1964 ford galaxie, so I’m used to doing wrenching. Just don’t have to time to fully rebuild a boat, so I’m looking for the least amount of work hahaha!
 
Last edited:

briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,362
I'd go option #4 - rent one when you want/need it and up the budget for something newer.

Gives you the opportunity to try out different layouts and decide what works/doesn't, what are must haves, what are nice to haves, and its somebody else's issue if something breaks and needs repair.

Just me.
 

Sprig

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
609
All of these boats are 35 to 50 years old. It’s pretty much a guarantee that all have problems from rotten transoms to rotten stringers to water saturated hUlsan, to mechanical problems that are present or will materialize soon. All are likely project boats which will cost thousands to get up and running. Cheap boats are not cheap, in fact they are usually quite expensive. There is no way we can make a suggestion by just knowing the make, model and year and single picture. . No such crystal ball exists. As much as you want a boat you are probably better off to wait a while, save your money and get something newer and more dependable.
 

ScottinAZ

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
831
being a frequent buyer of old boats that are in need of a LOT of work (and money....) If I were serious about any of the boats, I would look at them in this order
1) Chris Craft... Known name recognition and at least a "reputation" for being high end. May or may not actually be, but if you need to flip it, the name is there. Still in business, so their name hasnt been lost to time

2) Mark Twain. Also a "high end" name, but not as well known as Chris Craft (I had to look them up). They went under in the late 80's to early 90's.... Known for making good boats.

3) Rally.... never heard of them, quality is a bit of a crapshoot (they all are when they are this old though). May have more trouble offloading it if needed. This one had a deck done you say, look up Friscoboater if you need more reason to doubt anyone elses workmanship, Long and short of it, he got burned on a "redone" floor, and his thread to bring it back is nothing short of epic.

At the price point you are looking at, I would do a darn good inspection of the deck and transom ( doubt that anyone will let you do drill tests, but a good bouncing you should be able to get away with. if its BAD, you will be able to tell....) and if possible a float test where you can see how the running gear operates and if there is a MASSIVE leak into the bilges. above all, keep your expectations in check, and let your spidey senses tell you if anything is amiss. Those little feelings you get usually arent wrong....
 

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
being a frequent buyer of old boats that are in need of a LOT of work (and money....) If I were serious about any of the boats, I would look at them in this order
1) Chris Craft... Known name recognition and at least a "reputation" for being high end. May or may not actually be, but if you need to flip it, the name is there. Still in business, so their name hasnt been lost to time

2) Mark Twain. Also a "high end" name, but not as well known as Chris Craft (I had to look them up). They went under in the late 80's to early 90's.... Known for making good boats.

3) Rally.... never heard of them, quality is a bit of a crapshoot (they all are when they are this old though). May have more trouble offloading it if needed. This one had a deck done you say, look up Friscoboater if you need more reason to doubt anyone elses workmanship, Long and short of it, he got burned on a "redone" floor, and his thread to bring it back is nothing short of epic.

At the price point you are looking at, I would do a darn good inspection of the deck and transom ( doubt that anyone will let you do drill tests, but a good bouncing you should be able to get away with. if its BAD, you will be able to tell....) and if possible a float test where you can see how the running gear operates and if there is a MASSIVE leak into the bilges. above all, keep your expectations in check, and let your spidey senses tell you if anything is amiss. Those little feelings you get usually arent wrong....

Thanks for the input, that’s what I’m looking for! I too have never heard of rally, although a bit of research led to my finding out that it was a division of mirro, which is apparently a division of cruisers. Either way the reverse not working is something of a worry, and now looking through the threads you suggested made me not want that one at all! I’m kinda leaning toward the Twain. If I go see that one I plan to bring a urethane mallet along!

I agree though, the spider sense is not to be ignored!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,593
If you are going to buy an old boat, buy aluminum. Skip all 3 of the fiberglass projects unless you like working on fiberglass projects
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,203
I'd avoid all 3 of those, but... Given the choices, #3 is a disaster. 'new floor' just tells me it is entirely rotted and the owner put a bandaide on it. (boats rot from the bottom up)

#2, I'm not a fan of 4 cylinder I/O's, especially in a pretty decent sized boat. Going to be a dog. Also, 'needs a cleaning' is craiglist code for sat outside without a cover for a couple years, and probably is full of water because the plug was left in.

That leaves #1. Pretty simple engine, small, cheap, you are less $$$ into it if it turns out to be a turd. Check the transom closely, stand on the motor anti-vent plates and bounce. You shouldn't see the transom flex.

Many states have much cheaper registration for boats <16', so lots of mfg's played games with that. (also less required equipment) I had a trihull back in the day that was 17.5' LOA not counting engine, but the mfg classed it as a 15.5' boat.
 
Last edited:

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
I'd avoid all 3 of those, but... Given the choices, #3 is a disaster. 'new floor' just tells me it is entirely rotted and the owner put a bandaide on it. (boats rot from the bottom up)

#2, I'm not a fan of 4 cylinder I/O's, especially in a pretty decent sized boat. Going to be a dog. Also, 'needs a cleaning' is craiglist code for sat outside without a cover for a couple years, and probably is full of water because the plug was left in.

That leaves #1. Pretty simple engine, small, cheap, you are less $$$ into it if it turns out to be a turd. Check the transom closely, stand on the motor anti-vent plates and bounce. You shouldn't see the transom flex.

Many states have much cheaper registration for boats <16', so lots of mfg's played games with that. (also less required equipment) I had a trihull back in the day that was 17.5' LOA not counting engine, but the mfg classed it as a 15.5' boat.


Interesting about the sizes! Wisconsin is one of those states too. Registration for a powered boat of less than 16’ is like $20 here. And they don’t even need a title! I’d bet that one is one of those that’s 16.5’ but classified 15’. Nice test with the bouncing too, I’ll remember to do that.
 

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
If you are going to buy an old boat, buy aluminum. Skip all 3 of the fiberglass projects unless you like working on fiberglass projects

I actually had my eye on an old 1961 StarCraft 16’ runabout with a ‘61 merc 700 on it. Would’ve lined up perfectly, unfortunately it only came up because I accidentally set my distance too far and it was on mainland Michigan, across the lake from here! I’ll keep that in mind though and look for some tins too.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,593
Mirro has nothing to do with Cruisers other than Mirro Aluminum was once headquartered in Manitowoc Wisconsin and Cruisers is 80 miles north in Oconto Wisconsin. Different companies owned by different PE firms

Banging on a fiberglass boat means nothing. Been proven hundreds of restorations.

You wont get a "hollow" sound until after the wood has become waterlogged for a decade or two, rotted for about a decade, and then dried and shrunk.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,166
I’m kinda leaning toward the Twain. If I go see that one I plan to bring a urethane mallet along!
There's a reason why they don't make tri-hulls any more. Nobody was buying them. For a small lake they are fine. But in bigger waters with a lot of waves the ride will be very uncomfortable.

Towers of power were iconic and loved by many. But they were a tinkerer's dream even when new. I live in a major boating destination and the only ones I see any more are in the annual antique boat show. Be prepared to do all your own work because dealers that work on them are few and far between.

Make your choice carefully because you ultimately want to spend more time boating than working on it.

Lots of boats for sale now. Covid drove prices up and gas prices are driving demand down. Some people are just trying to sell their junk because they figure they'll never use it again.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,703
None of them! Unless you want to do a complete refit. Itchy, tyvec suits, etc
The advice for an aluminum boat is good, they are easier to deal with than an old 'glass boat and if you're in fresh water no reason to avoid one.
Old outboards, old sterndrives, they all are time & work to keep going due to so many parts being hard to find. I have a garage full of OMC Cobra spares.
If I ever buy another boat it will be 3-5 years old, outboard powered with whatever has the best parts & service availability. I can work on I/Os but will not accept one with cat converter exhaust and I'm actually not too enamoured of EFI in inboards, you have problems with them and the parts cost starts to eat you up. The suck through design vs push from the tank allowed in cars but not boats puts a lot of strain on very expensive fuel pumps, that's why they are troublesome. A carb and fuel pump, much easier to deal with.
If you own classic cars and have the patience to search for parts, that's a good skill for buying old boats but if you just want to go boating, well it will lead to frustration sooner or later.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,593
I actually had my eye on an old 1961 StarCraft 16’ runabout with a ‘61 merc 700 on it. Would’ve lined up perfectly, unfortunately it only came up because I accidentally set my distance too far and it was on mainland Michigan, across the lake from here! I’ll keep that in mind though and look for some tins too.
mainland michigan is a 4 hour boat ride. https://www.ssbadger.com/schedule-fares/
 

crazy charlie

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
5,501
I would hold off and KEEP LOOKING.Plenty of boats in your range for sale.
Outboard is preferable,slow your roll and keep looking.Nothing of interest
in what you have posted.Charlie
 

Strychn9ne

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
34
Yup I passed on all those and some others after looking at them and finding lots of soft spots all over them all. The Twain had a really soggy floor at the rear. Even a 1990 regal I looked at had floor rot!

After lots of looking I did find a good one though and just brought it home! It’s a 1976 Hy-Ryder tri-15 with a 1975 evinrude 70 hp on it. Trailer is a 1997 shore lander with rollers. Very very clean, solid, and dry everywhere. This thing is in better shape than the 90’s boats I looked at! Engine pops right off without even choking it or using the warm up lever.

The guy took real good care of it and said it was never left outside, which I believe wholly after the inspection. It also came with a top, lots of line, life jackets, and a 2 person tube, spare gas cans, lots of extra stuff. Even had the original manuals and maintenance paperwork.

I’m happy with it. Me and the wife were talking and decided that getting this one for a cheap price, then getting a brand new lund (or equivalent aluminum fish and ski type boat) 5 years down the road or so when the truck is paid off would be ideal for us.
 
Top