Trolling Motor Help

Texas Cowboy

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Oct 27, 2024
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I just bought a 1989 Mercury Astro Quickfire with a 24v Minn Kota Edge 70 Trolling Motor (Not working). My issue is, the former owner blew the fuse on the battery side of the harness connector leading from the battery to the Run/Charge toggle switch, as well as frying the switch itself.
The fuse on the battery side is 24V 50amps and the only on/off/on toggle switch I can find online is rated at 30amps. Is the fuse the wrong amps or should I replace it with a 30amp fuse or is there a 24v 50amp 4-pin toggle switch available. It is a 4-wire harness. HELP!
 

Grub54891

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Jun 17, 2012
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I can’t help you but I’m going to hang out and see what others have to say. Being an older motor it may be hard to find parts or specs for it. Hope there is a plate that states amp draw and such.
 

alldodge

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Welcome
I'm finding the 24v Minn Kota Edge 70 requires a 50 amp breaker/fuse, so you will need at least 50 amp switch.

Here is a Switch which I found searching for 24V 50 amp switch
Can also use a Battery switch

Just search what I did and all kinds of types will show up, doesn't need to be a toggle
 

Texas Cowboy

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Welcome
I'm finding the 24v Minn Kota Edge 70 requires a 50 amp breaker/fuse, so you will need at least 50 amp switch.

Here is a Switch which I found searching for 24V 50 amp switch
Can also use a Battery switch

Just search what I did and all kinds of types will show up, doesn't need to be a toggle
Thanks for your reply. However, the switch I need will need to be 4-pin. 2-ground - 1-pin for the battery and 1- pin for the source (Trolling motor).
 

cyclops222

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Question What damage was done to the 5 position speed selecting switch ?
I see nothing looking like a fuse. or overload relay / circuit breaker.
 

dwco5051

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Sep 14, 2008
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I think the switch he is asking about is not shown on the diagram as it is part of the boat wiring that feeds the power to the motor. Would almost have to be there but I think it is before the receptacle that the motor or a charger plugs into. Some setups consist of two separate switches for run/charge and 12/24. A source of trouble on older boats and takes a while to figure out exactly how to wire without a diagram.
 

dwco5051

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I believe this is the 12/24 charge/run switch they are posting about. Different mfg's use different variants of this set up. The last boat I had with this setup I just took the defective switch out of the circuit and wired the receptacle direct as it was easier to just lift the hatch and charge the batteries direct when I backed the boat into the garage.
1224 switch.JPG
 

Texas Cowboy

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Oct 27, 2024
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I believe this is the 12/24 charge/run switch they are posting about. Different mfg's use different variants of this set up. The last boat I had with this setup I just took the defective switch out of the circuit and wired the receptacle direct as it was easier to just lift the hatch and charge the batteries direct when I backed the boat into the garage.
View attachment 403049
I appreciate all the feedback I'm getting. Thanks to all. Here's the wiring diagram I made directly from my boat. These are pictures of the wiring harness I had to cut out from the Run/Charge toggle switch.trolling motor diagram.jpg
 

alldodge

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ok it's an on/off toggle switch
look for a DPDT 50 amp switch, and could get away with a SPST 50 amp switch. The SP switch would just disconnect the hot
 

cyclops222

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A single speed motor just needs a fuse and a powerful SPST switch. alldodge switch will work. A fast blowing 50 or 60 amp fuse and fuse holder. done.
 

Texas Cowboy

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Joined
Oct 27, 2024
Messages
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ok it's an on/off toggle switch
look for a DPDT 50 amp switch, and could get away with a SPST 50 amp switch. The SP switch would just disconnect the hot
Thanks everyone for your responses. I put it in the shop and let the pro's do their thing. It took 2 days and now the parts issue has been resolved. I'm in the water next weekend.
 

Texas Cowboy

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Joined
Oct 27, 2024
Messages
11
Welcome
I'm finding the 24v Minn Kota Edge 70 requires a 50 amp breaker/fuse, so you will need at least 50 amp switch.

Here is a Switch which I found searching for 24V 50 amp switch
Can also use a Battery switch

Just search what I did and all kinds of types will show up, doesn't need to be a toggle
Thanks everyone for your responses. I put it in the shop and let the pro's do their thing. It took 2 days and now the parts issue has been resolved. I'm in the water next weekend.
 

Texas Cowboy

Cadet
Joined
Oct 27, 2024
Messages
11
I believe this is the 12/24 charge/run switch they are posting about. Different mfg's use different variants of this set up. The last boat I had with this setup I just took the defective switch out of the circuit and wired the receptacle direct as it was easier to just lift the hatch and charge the batteries direct when I backed the boat into the garage.
View attachment 403049
Thanks everyone for your responses. I put it in the shop and let the pro's do their thing. It took 2 days and now the parts issue has been resolved. I'm in the water next weekend.
 

Texas Cowboy

Cadet
Joined
Oct 27, 2024
Messages
11
I think the switch he is asking about is not shown on the diagram as it is part of the boat wiring that feeds the power to the motor. Would almost have to be there but I think it is before the receptacle that the motor or a charger plugs into. Some setups consist of two separate switches for run/charge and 12/24. A source of trouble on older boats and takes a while to figure out exactly how to wire without a diagram.
Thanks everyone for your responses. I put it in the shop and let the pro's do their thing. It took 2 days and now the parts issue has been resolved. I'm in the water next weekend.
 

alldodge

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Good
and that is one way to get your post count up
and I might just delete some of these
 
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