Trim/Tilt problems

zubol

Seaman
Joined
May 8, 2009
Messages
51
Hello,

Last year I changed o-rings and oil in Trim/Tilt, but unfortunately it does not keep the engine in up position. I mean it stays for a few minutes but very slowly goes down.

Any advice?

Thank you very much.

PS. Force 85 HP 1988.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: Trim/Tilt problems

its the check valves in your valve body. The valve body mounts to base of trim motor with four screws and is where the oil tubes attach.

I think you can buy new check valves from mercury for around $60-$70 each. There are two per valve body. The mercury parts don't fit 1989-1992. If your '88 has allen key plugs in the end then the merc parts won't fit. I used to keep an ebay listing for rebuilding Force, mercury, evinrude, and johnson valve bodies at $110ish, but it has expired due to off-season. You can find new chinese ones for around $200. They may have even made it to iboats by now. Any new ones are chinese regardless of name on box. There's only one factory.

IMO, the chinese trim pumps and motors aren't as good as the US but they are close enough for an old boat. The one noteable exception is a 115HP or higher Chrysler Force. The back pressure from WOT has a tendency to swell the aluminum on big engines. The chinese alloy isn't as strong as the US alloy and you may expect a shorter lifespan.
 

zubol

Seaman
Joined
May 8, 2009
Messages
51
Re: Trim/Tilt problems

its the check valves in your valve body. The valve body mounts to base of trim motor with four screws and is where the oil tubes attach.

I think you can buy new check valves from mercury for around $60-$70 each. There are two per valve body. The mercury parts don't fit 1989-1992. If your '88 has allen key plugs in the end then the merc parts won't fit. I used to keep an ebay listing for rebuilding Force, mercury, evinrude, and johnson valve bodies at $110ish, but it has expired due to off-season. You can find new chinese ones for around $200. They may have even made it to iboats by now. Any new ones are chinese regardless of name on box. There's only one factory.

IMO, the chinese trim pumps and motors aren't as good as the US but they are close enough for an old boat. The one noteable exception is a 115HP or higher Chrysler Force. The back pressure from WOT has a tendency to swell the aluminum on big engines. The chinese alloy isn't as strong as the US alloy and you may expect a shorter lifespan.

Could you please show me where it is?
tilt trim.jpg
 

Snoots

Cadet
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
13
Re: Trim/Tilt problems

Not meaning to hijack, but does this thread and especially pnwboat's link to the additional pics apply to a 1988 125 hp system?
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: Trim/Tilt problems

year? horsepower? original trim?
The thing about valve bodies is that they should be matched with the trim system. The universal fit (allen keyed check valves) is the least expensive design. It is also the one with the most reliability and operation issues when used on larger engines. Knowing the year and horsepower of the engine is often (but not always) enough to determine the optimum valve body. The best method is to either rebuild or replace your exact valve body. The second best method is to buy a pump assembly which includes a matching motor and valve body. The third best option is to buy the generic. It may lift more slowly and it may not last as long but it will always fit and it is designed to work with the lowest common denominators.

but to make long story short - yes. I have all the parts. I just have no way of knowing which one fits your engine.
 

zubol

Seaman
Joined
May 8, 2009
Messages
51
Re: Trim/Tilt problems

Force 85 HP 1988 (top of this thread :) ) as far as I know it has original trim. Also, can give you model no: 856x8a.

Thanks a lot.
 

RRitt

Captain
Joined
Mar 30, 2006
Messages
3,319
Re: Trim/Tilt problems

A 1988 85HP can use any variant. I have never seen anything 90HP or less blow out the internals from back pressure. The basic design didn't start getting into trouble until it went over 100HP. rebuild it, swap it , or replace it. All choices are available. The best solution depends upon the condition of you electric motor, your budget, your time frame. Before deciding what to do about valve body, inspect your motor for rust stains. If rust is developing in the seam between magnet and reservoir or around the washers on top bolts ... then you should replace your motor at same time as valve body. It takes slightly less time to replace a pump assembly than just the valve body. If you do the valve body and your motor fails mid season then you have to do it all over. The oil tubes are a pain and every time you mess with them you risk stripping a thread. So if your motor is showing traces of rust then replace the pump as a whole. Save time, save money, be done with it.

As regards your 1988 85HP. You can use any valve body. Presotile designs did not start getting into trouble until they went over 100HP. You can use anything. Even the new ones for $150-$250 should be fine with 85HP. There is only one factory making them. No matter who you buy from and no mater what price you pay it will still be the exact same thing. I would not trust a new one to last a long time on a big engine. The internal aluminum is too soft. But 85HP? Surely it can do that? I think. My luck with chinese machines has not been good but I'd bet one of those chinese valve bodies would go at least 5 years on an 85HP. Just hit ebay and search for " (valve,pump,motor) Force tilt " if you use trim then you get a bunch of auto parts in your search result. So try tilt first. You should find everything with prices from $90 to $500. My target would be under $150 valve body and under $250 pump ay. Your 85hp can use anything.
 
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