Trim/tilt issue 1996 Volvo Penta DP

[hondoNH]

I've been having a problem with my trim/tilt and would like some help.

Hit some rocks 2 seasons ago and the lower unit would not lock down after that. In reverse, it would kick up and I would have to press the switch to lower it again. Pulled boat and found tilt/trim rams were leaking. Replaced the cylinder cap and gaskets and that seemed to be all set. Was able to tilt down all the way but now can't trim it. Clicking the tilt up button doesn't do anything or produce any sound. Clicking down results in motor running but seems stressed, and still not leaking. Hoses do not leak. Gauge does not react to up/down buttons any more.

I've replaced the relay switches at the pump but that did not do anything. Swapping relay switches does nothing either. A friend suggested it might be air in the hoses but the what I've seen about pump replacement says you run up/down a few times to clear it, so I am not sure it is that. I think it's one of two things: either the pump is bad or the up/down button control is bad. Leaning towards pump.

So, my questions are these:

• How can I test the up/down buttons to eliminate that as a problem?
• How can I reliably check the pump while installed? Is there a decent description of connecting directly to the battery to test?
• The part number is 873052. Seems a little difficult to find now. Can I use just about any pump that even remotely looks like it? Is there an alternate P/N?
• Does anyone know where the tilt/trim limit controller is? I see nothing like the manual explains on the side of the lower unit.
• Is there a mechanical reverse lock? Or do the rams control that?

Thanks

 

[dubs283]

1. Volt/ohms test

2. Jump the control wires, green down, blue up. Reverse polarity to test up and down

3. Maybe, could also supercede to a different pump assy

4. Depends on the tilt/trim model. Some AQ style systems have a trailer switch, most just use a gauge with no limit. SX uses no limit switch, just a gauge. Relays/wiring again depends on model

5. Some older AQ models have a reverse lock on the bottom of the transom assy. Would be obvious if present

 

[hondoNH]

Sorry, I may need a little clarity:
1. The dash switch looks like this one:

Assume I just check for current at pump while pressing the button?
2. Could you describe how to jump the control wires? The pump is about 6 feet from the battery.
4. The product number and the lower unit is supposedly DP-S, but I've found some differences in the Clymer manual. I do not see any limit control on the unit so I am going to assume it is no limit. When it was working, I do not remember it turning off. Rather, it would just whine as if under stress.
5. Saw a youtube video that showed the shift mechanism with the physical lock. I see no such thing on the unit. It is currently in the down position and I can't pull it up. But I can remove the pins to the rams and manually raise it. Would that eliminate the possibility that there is no physical lock?

Thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

Being a 1996, you could have an early SX drive or a late AQ drive.

hitting the rocks most likely damaged the reverse lock if you have an AQ series

Factory drive manual covers the reverse lock and trim system troubleshooting.

Picture of the trim pump means nothing as its the same Oildyne pump used in nearly every boat.

please advise which drive you have.

if you have an AQ, here is the exploded view of the reverse lock assembly. https://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/image/view/7/6/8855_4.png

 

[hondoNH]

I checked the plate on the lower unit. It says it is a 3868299 DP-S.

I was able to eliminate the trim/tilt pump. Attached wires to battery and then reversed it. Each time the engine ran. So, I can eliminate pump motor, eliminate relays and now have to focus on that up/down switch and line. Very tough to see where wires go to.

 

[hondoNH]

OK, so the new switch did not fix the issue. Checked voltage to the relays. Both switch positions get 12V at the relay. But only the DOWN button works. The UP does not even click.

It is difficult to trace these wires. The switch has a 6 pin connector to control trim. Two of the wires I can identify (blue and green). The rest disappear somewhere in the boat and presumably come back to the pump in the power harness. At the pump, I see the blue and green wires connector that then goes to the 2 relay switches. I have not tried this yet but I will check for continuity from the blue and green wires from the switch to the pump. Then I will unclip the connector and cross the wires to see if the engine will go up. I don't see any fuses for this wiring anywhere.

A couple more questions:

• My boat is a 1996 Regal Commodore 272 cuddy cruiser in a large, busy lake. There is generally some chop. Can I drive this boat with the trim in the full down position? I don't drive much over 20 mph.
• If all else fails, can I just run some new wires from a new dash toggle to work the trim?
• What else should I do to find a solution to this?

 

[Scott Danforth]

are you hitting the up trim limit so you have to then use the trailer button?

are you following the troubleshooting guide in the factory manual?

the main wiring for the motor goes to a circuit breaker or fuse mounted on the starter B terminal.

 

[hondoNH]

The engine will not tilt UP so won't go to trailer level. I am following the guide as much as possible but I am not an electrical guy and there seem to be discrepancies.

I believe I've located the point of failure. It is the blue wire going into the connector where I've circled. When I pull the connector apart and cross the wires (incoming green to outgoing blue) the unit tilts up correctly. So it must be whatever supplies power to that blue wire?



The incoming wires come through a wire sleeve making it very difficult to follow it back through the boat. I assumed it was a wire coming from the UP/DOWN switch on my dash but I do not see corresponding blue and green wires from the switch. Must go to some panel somewhere that I can't locate.

I'm at a loss. I think I can put the boat in the water since I know it is an electrical issue but I don't think I really want to drive it with no tilt/trim capabilities.

Would this be a bad wire? Or maybe a fuse or circuit breaker? Only affects tilt UP since the DOWN circuit works fine.

Thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your system is covered in the manual

There should be a trim/tilt relay behind the dash that is controlled by the trim gauge

 

[hondoNH]

Your system is covered in the manual

There should be a trim/tilt relay behind the dash that is controlled by the trim gauge

There are a LOT of things behind the dash. Hard to get to and hard to trace anything. I have not seen this relay mentioned in the manual. Are you talking about a relay like those at the pump?

 

[Scott Danforth]

There are a LOT of things behind the dash. Hard to get to and hard to trace anything. I have not seen this relay mentioned in the manual. Are you talking about a relay like those at the pump?

in the factory service manual for your drive, near the end is the troublshooting guide for the trim/tilt and gauge system.

Yes, a VF4 relay was used. however will depend on which gauge/system you are using as Volvo used a few.

The two relays at the pump are just used for reversing. the relay behind the dash is the trim limit relay. once your drive is up above 8 degrees or the controls think its up above 8 degrees, the relay comes into play. and you need to use the trailer or tilt button.

depending on which control you have, there should be a second trigger on your control handle. mine is the thumb switch, and a finger switch under the throttle handle. both must be pressed to go above 8 degrees.

If you dont have a copy of your service manual. suggest you get one. https://www.volvopenta.com/en-us/service-and-support/your-engine/manuals-and-handbooks/

 

[hondoNH]

Not sure what you are referring to. It's possible the shift controller has been modified from original. There is no other tilt/trim control that I am aware of unless some unmarked dipswitch on the dash controls it. I will take another look, thanks.

The lower unit will not go UP, whether I use the trailer override or not. The unit will go DOWN, though. Unless the trailer override is somehow connected to engine UP, I am not too concerned. The The boat remains in the water, not trailered.

And, I have the Clymer manual.