Transom work

kemo111

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
27
What would be better 1 thick piece of plywood or multiple thin pieces of plywood laminated together using polyester resin?
 

asm_

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 11, 2010
Messages
245
Re: Transom work

The 'ply' in plywood mean it is laminated woods....

Don't think can by a plywood that's not 'ply'...
 

Home Cookin'

Fleet Admiral
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
9,715
Re: Transom work

except that commercial plywood is "laminated" better than home made.

You need to tell us the boat--a 12' Jon (2 pieces of 5/8 marine grade) or a 26' Bayliner?
Anyway you have to use marine grade and be sure it is sealed at the top if it is suspended; I assume sealed top and bottom if the entire transom.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
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May 19, 2001
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26,045
Re: Transom work

Welcome to iboats!

Transom rebuild.....no problem ;)

I will move this to the restoration section. "Most" of us use 2 pieces of 3/4" exterior plywood, glues together with gorilla glue or PL, then sealed on all sides and edges with fiberglass or epoxy resin and cloth.

Easy work if you have a small aluminum boat and time consuming if it's a yacht but.... all repairable!
 

kemo111

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
27
Re: Transom work

I am not rebuilding a transom only looking to reinforce with something other then an aluminum plate. My thought was to do 3/4 plywood on the outside of the transom and gel cot it to look something like this pic

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/images/TrimTabs/22OutrageFlookPort600x446.jpg.

this boat is a 2003 2100RG SeaChaser re powered with a Honda 225. I purchased the boat with a Mercury 150 and the motor developed problems so we tossed it. I had the boat checked out and was told transom was good but to watch it because these baots are known to be a little weak in that area. So developed a small crack where the splash well meats the transom, sanded and glassed that area now world like to "beef" it up to handle the power and chop. Unless the oil kills the fishing here in Port Arthur, TX then it will just be a yard decoration. So that is my story.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: Transom work

Wood outside the transom will not add any strength and only add to the weight of the transom. The transom will maintain the same supports unless work is done to tie it in on the inside of the hull.

Glad you decided to be more specific on what you were trying to accomplish.........
 

kemo111

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
27
Re: Transom work

So you do not think it would spread the load on the transom. My thinking is now the motor pushes against a small section of the transom. If I add wood glassed to the transom would spread the force out. Just like bolting on a aluminum plate would help my problem I just do not like the look. I am grateful for all the help this is a job i want to do right the first time.
 

Bob_VT

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26,045
Re: Transom work

Your crack was where the splashwell met the transom...... was that from the pressure of the outboard pushing or the hanging weight?

Was your 150 Merc a 4 stroke? What is the weight difference between the new and the old. The Honda 4 stroke is a heavy motor.

Most transom cracking develop from weight and the transom getting weak. Who ever told you the transom was okay and THEN gave you a warning about weakness should be a red flag.

My opinion 3/4" plywood or even 3/4" armor plate will not make things stronger from the exterior.
 

bigredinohio

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
604
Re: Transom work

I agree with Bob_VT. Adding whatever to the outside of your transom isn't going to fix anything. You're going to need to replace the old transom.

Once you replace the transom, then I would consider adding transom knees/braces if adding a bigger motor.
 

kemo111

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
27
Re: Transom work

Ok first off i must admit I am really bad at explaining things. I took some time to gather my thoughts and pictures.

http://www.kemo111.com/temp/IMAG0010.jpg
http://www.kemo111.com/temp/B001.jpg
http://www.kemo111.com/temp/B002.jpg

Again i would rather do it right one time then to just keep trying to get it right. The transom seems to try and bend out from the boat at the top because it was a bit bowed out even after the motor was pulled. I pushed it in and glassed the crack and it is straight I also believe there is a good chance in may stay that way. i have inspected the foam as much as i can and it seems dry and intact. The splash wells bottom where you see the crack is really thin there was some glass weave on the bottom that was just dry never wetted out like they didnt plan on it being structural. there are no oher cracks just that one. I would like to make the transom resist the twisting at the top my thought was thicker. Do you have anythoughts on how to tie into the structured supports on the inside of the transom. Should i cut through the glass and foam to try and tie in? I do not like mixing steel or aluminum into fiberglass but i guess some aluminum straps is the only thing i can think of. I can not say what caused the crack it was there only smaller when i bought the boat it did get larger with the new motor.

Again i thank you for any and all input i know it has to be mind numbing reading and trying to solve a problem you can not put your hands on.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: Transom work

Interesting.....

Who added that hatch in the splashwell? I actually think the weakness shown from that crack is due to that opening. I would have an aluminum plate fabricated to fit the transom (the top portion where the upper motor bolts) and the splashwell as a single piece.

If it was all made to fit and heli-arced then attached I bet the problem would be solved..... and you could still retain the hatchway.
 

kemo111

Cadet
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
27
Re: Transom work

The hatch I believe is factory it is the only access to the bilge pumps and it is just a ring of foam glassed in the bottom is not that thick all the way to the transom. I had an aluminum plate made shortly after the new motor was put on because the bolts were pulling into the glass.but it only covers the part of the transom not the splash well.I am m going to make one or the bottom bolts even though there is no problem below the splash well. i just do not want to put a plate on the outside between the motor and transom just because of looks.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: Transom work

I was talking about a piece of aluminum maybe 3/16" or better for inside the splashwell
 

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