transom replacement with an I/O

[Eggkr8]

Hello,<br /><br />If I used Sealcast to replace/rebuild my transom, would I leave all my Outdrive stuff in place (the gimbal house and so on) and then pour the sealcast around it. Or is it best to remove it all, patch the hole, pour and cut through again?!

 

[Bondo]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

I don't think you can use that Stuff, when repairing an I/O transom..............<br /><br />What ya gotta do is remove the Entire Driveline,+ Dig out all the Junk,<br />Then Glue in new wood with epoxy,+ recut the holes............<br />Do it all from the inside.... That way the "Holes" are Easy to locate......

 

[qaztwo]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

Go to there web site, they talk about it in their online brochure. When I was researching transom fixes thought about it, in the end the price of ply was so much cheaper. They also have a on line forum on there web site with answers to other questions you might have<br />good luck

 

[JasonJ]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

You would need to remove the driveline (that has to be done no matter what), then dam off the hole, then pour the seacast. This of course all depends on the condition of the inner transom skin and how easy it would be to get the wood out. Personaly, I think epoxying in some good ply and sealing everything will accomplish the same thing and be easier/cheaper to do. Good luck...

 

[Eggkr8]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

Thanks<br />I visited Sealcasts site today and read the instructions. I may actually have to remove the outer skin to do this work. There is a bad patch job there that is now cracked. I am fearing I will find rotten wood.<br /><br />Looks like fun!

 

[Bondo]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

I may actually have to remove the outer skin to do this work.

As I stated Before............<br /><br />You Really Don't want to do that.............<br /><br />Work from the Inside of the boat.............

 

[Eggkr8]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

Hey Bondo,<br />Well I guess I am confused about the order of operations. Here is my deal. My inner lining of fiberglass looks fine to the eye (for now, I haven't touched it yet). My Outer fiberglass lining looks like crap, there is a large crack transversing the lower port side. I know I will need to replace at least my outer skin. Should I replace the skin against rotten wood, then remove the wood and fill with sealcast. Or should I leave the current skin, sealcast, and then sand and reskin?!<br /><br />The other thing I am thinking is that if I got to remove the driveline anyways, why not just build a whole new plywood and glass transom and put it in place?

 

[Solittle]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

Egg - Could you post some pictures of both the inner & outer surface of the transom?<br /><br />How big is the boat & what do you have for power? - You might get different input if'n you are running a 17'er vs. a 29'er.<br /><br />I'm with Bondo on working from the inside but would like to see the pictures.<br /><br />Replacing the skin against rotten wood makes no sense to me.<br /><br />I would want to get some input from some experienced professional boat builders before I ripped the entire transom off. I would be concerned on the strength of where the new transom would be attached to the hull even if adequately glassed with roven or whatever.

 

[qaztwo]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

From my understanding you remove the inside glass and wood. Then using wood or other material form a backing to pour the seacast into. If its a crack on the outside I would grind on the crack to allow enough room to fill with epoxy and thickener. On the inside I would glass over the crack area. I've only done one boat rebuild, but I with everyone else about not taking the transom off. If its that bad I would find a new hull.

 

[Bondo]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

#1, Forget about the sealcast, It's Neither what you Need, or what you Want...........<br /><br />#2, The Inner Skin is Just that.... a Skin.. about 1/8th, to 3/16ths" thick.........<br />What You're calling the outer Skin, Isn't .....<br />It's the HULL.... 3/8ths to 1/2" Thick....<br />Repair,+ Straighten the Hull, Then Replace the Wood + Glass(Epoxy) in the Inside repairs.....<br />

The other thing I am thinking is that if I got to remove the driveline anyways, why not just build a whole new plywood and glass transom and put it in place?

Exactly............<br />But, Don't cut-out the Hull...<br />Rebuild it from the Inside.........

 

[Eggkr8]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

Bondo,<br /> You are a man of few words, but all the right ones. I didn't know that the outer sheath is actually hull. <br /><br />I will follow your advise and your order of operations<br /><br />As for pics<br /> http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2330115093&idx=5 <br />See what looks like a hair line crack going towards the bilge hole? It is also swollen out about 3/8" also<br /><br /> http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2330115093&idx=6 <br />Here you can kinda see the 'mountain range' to the port<br /> http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid146/p745b0a862a342793c45ff0e2682ee6e6/f648dbbb.jpg <br /><br />Sorry no inner skin pics yet<br /><br />thank you all or your advise

 

[Bondo]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

Bondo,<br />You are a man of few words, but all the right ones.

Sorry Dude, I type with 1 finger....... <br /><br />Usually, Once I can get the Idea out, Some of the other Guys will fill in with the Details......................

 

[Solittle]

Re: transom replacement with an I/O

On the pictures - try photobucket or some other free service so we won't have to deal with registering, etc, etc. I get enough spam mail as it is.