Transom Rebuild.

[Bt Doctur]

your typical rear transom housing cutaway

 

[rickasbury]

yepper, will do that for sure. I'm sure a lot of leaks would be saved if they all had it.

 

[gtfireftr]

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/s9.postimg.cc\/o0fcxzw6n\/DSCN3600.jpg"**[/IMG2]

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/s9.postimg.cc\/45tbbxeez\/DSCN3596_-_Copy.jpg"**[/IMG2]

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/s9.postimg.cc\/45tbby9a3\/DSCN3598.jpg"**[/IMG2]

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/s9.postimg.cc\/dqcxytbgr\/DSCN3599.jpg"**[/IMG2]

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/s9.postimg.cc\/opy5af9ln\/DSCN3601.jpg"**[/IMG2]

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/s9.postimg.cc\/5kuw0o2nf\/DSCN3602.jpg"**[/IMG2]

Locate the center
Using a #3 drill bit ,drill about 3/8ths deep, then switch to a 1/16th drill bit.and drill slowly and gently.
You willl see aluminum , then brass, then steel STOP
Tap for 1/4 x 28 for the grease fitting and install and grease
You can also use a 5/16 hex nut for a gauge. This can be done to Bravo drives also

What size is a #3 dr??
ill bit actually

 

[Bt Doctur]

.2130 the size you would use to tap a 1/4 x 28 thread
https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Ameri.../dp/B000CFLA5C
http://www.harveytool.com/secure/Content/Documents/Tap_Drill_Chart.pdf

 

[gtfireftr]

.2130 the size you would use to tap a 1/4 x 28 thread
https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Ameri.../dp/B000CFLA5C
http://www.harveytool.com/secure/Content/Documents/Tap_Drill_Chart.pdf

So I would drill with the larger drill first to tap the grease fitting in, then the 1/16 to let the grease flow into the bushing??

 

[Bt Doctur]

Yes, if your carefull, but all the drilling should be completed first, then tap for the grease fitting

 

[gtfireftr]

Yes, if your carefull, but all the drilling should be completed first, then tap for the grease fitting

Yea.. I got that... sorry I actually confused myself on that one....LOL
Would you use any normal grease fitting from auto store??

 

[Bt Doctur]

fitting should be SS and may be available from a GOOD auto parts supply
Merc part number 74036

 

[gtfireftr]

fitting should be SS and may be available from a GOOD auto parts supply
Merc part number 74036

Thank You

 

[rickasbury]

assy of the bravo III transom assy

So...much water under the bridge or over the dam or what ever it is since I started this project, could not find the thread I started and really wanted to keep all of this together for the next guy......

I am putting back together on my bench the transom assy. Have it all cleaned up, painted. Oh, from a previous bellows replacement and gimbal bearing, how do you know which side goes in first? I'm pretty sure I did my research but man, would hate to have that problem after all this work.

So, purchased a new upper steering pin, had some issues with the washers as I am starting to think this has been apart and not put back together with all the proper washers. This time it will be. Which brings me to the lower steering pin. Been so long since I took this apart I'm having trouble remembering how it came apart. I assume it must be tapered since there is only one carter pin holding it in place. I would have assumed it went through the top but it seems to want to only go through from the bottom. On top of, it does not seem t be long enough to catch all three tabs it goes through and have the hole for the pin to go through it to secure it? Also, as I google it, it seems it is supposed to have a washer in there somewhere probably as a retainer for the pin but I can't find an image of the assy. The parts manual seems to show it going up through the bottom and the carter pin at the bottom also which would make no sense... This last image I pulled off google. How does this go back together?? Kind of silly!

 

[GA_Boater]

Merged the three threads into one and modified the title. It can be re-titled if you want.

 

[rickasbury]

Thanks GA boater, could not find the thread to add.....looked at my history but it was not there...so, well, no response...It looks like that very thin washer I had no idea where it came from, must be a thrust washer between the gimbal housing and ring...certainly can't hurt anything putting it there. I thought the upper pin would actually keep the lower parts away from each other but looks like it does not and this is where it is going to go. I will push the pin through the top, put the cotter pin in- might have another washer that will fit on the the bottom between the pin and the housing, if so, will put that there and keep on trucking...anyone that can review the above and confirm or tell me, I won't have the asy back on the boat until next weekend so please chime in....where are you dodge??

 

[rickasbury]

Shout out to the designers of the bravo III

If someone from Merc ever reads this, I bet your pencil pushing engineers never worked on a dam thing in their life. Otherwise it would not be this frustrating trying to put something back together they designed. Unbelievable. I have a transom assy I'm trying to put back together and really do a good job on and make sure everything is right. Why in the world are the bellows all so tight together that they basically interfere with each other while your trying to put them on? Why? Would 1/8 or do I dare to ask 1/4" clearance between them cost so much metal? And trying to get to the clamps....oh my god. So, I HAD my gimbal ring back on and putting the gimbal bellows back on- on the right side there are a couple of tabs to know that the bellows is on all the way and PROBABLY the ring to seat it is in place. On the left side, there is really nothing to guide. There is a tapered tab that I guess you can shoot for the bottom of it...but if you get it to far on there I'm guessing that's where you will have a big friggin leak. Way to go engineers. Why don't you go to a couple of classes before you sit down and design something you know nothing about how to fix. So, I've pulled my gimbal ring back off, pulling the belows back off and going through the painful cleaning off the sealant ( another great idea...can't you come up with a better seal for this than to glue the dam thing on? ) so I can hopefully see what the hell I'm doing to make sure the bellows is on there seated properly and I don't sink my friggin boat because of poor design on your part.

Dang, I feel better.

 

[rickasbury]

Never mind....I see the hole through the tab for the carter pin- it was not in there before...I know it was on the outside which makes no sense and lucky the pin did not fall out. Yep, I'd say someone had this apart....and with 100 hours on the boat when bought ( or so I thought), it is being more of a mystery than ever. Moving forward,

 

[rickasbury]

so....just bout done with this....I put the pivot pins in and was trying to get the trim sensors back on but the grooves in the pivot pin don't seem to want to match up- is there any special alignment there? Can't see how there would be....

 

[alldodge]

so....just bout done with this....I put the pivot pins in and was trying to get the trim sensors back on but the grooves in the pivot pin don't seem to want to match up- is there any special alignment there? Can't see how there would be....

Don't understand the grooves on the (bell housing) pivot pins matching up. The pin goes in thru the ring, then a washer and into the bell housing.

 

[rickasbury]

nah, sorry Dodge....let me try again...where the special tool goes into the pivot pins to install, the grooves match up to the trim sensors....the trim sensors don't seem to want to go in...I have not messed with it much but figured they would just go on in any position....maybe they are just grudded up or something but I figure if the tool went in there the sensors did....bugger getting the 150 lbs of torque on them!

 

[alldodge]

Agree, the senders should just slip right in easy, no aligning. Only aligning is the paint marks on the senders for the starting point