Transom Corrosion & Alumacraft not honoring warranties

[Ron Edwards]

I have a 2016 Competitor 185 Le. Severe transom degradation being caused by reaction between aluminum and pressure treated marine plywood inners; copper based product etc. Lund are having same issues and are honoring warranties, to date, Alumacraft are not...I know of only 1 person with exact same boat that they have rebuilt transom but have heard that like me, other people are getting nowhere with Alumacraft? There is no stray current running through boat from crank or deepcycle and no current where I dock boat. Is anyone else having similar issues with Alumacraft not coming to table. Thank you. Ping Pong, Winnipeg, Manitoba.

 

[chris.olson]

Lund are having same issues and are honoring warranties, to date, Alumacraft are not...

Have not heard of such a thing. You've talked directly with Alumacraft in St. Peter, MN or just a dealer? If the boat is under warranty Alumacraft will honor it. If it's out of warranty then it's your responsibility to fix it.

I've re-cored transoms in both Lund and Alumacraft boats and both manufacturers have always been helpful in providing the necessary parts.

 

[Ron Edwards]

Yes Chris, boat manufacture date Nov 2015, 10 year warranty...supposedly. I have electrical tested whole boat plus marina where dock, no current, everything grounded etc. I am now having to pay local Alumacraft dealer to front to back test as well, to show Alumacraft nothing to do w me or my use of boat. Here is my first response from Alumacraft customer service that they sent to dealer: "It appears that there is some corrosion or electrolysis possibly happening as well as some wear and tear on the unit. I would speak with the customer about the storage, cleaning and care procedures that they are using as well as the addition of electronics or accessories not approved by Alumacraft. Also you can mention the benefit of a sacrificial anode as an addition to an Aluminum boat as natural elements like water are the most corrosive elements there are and these items can assist with this." Total disingenuous reply! Splashwell drain holes corroding so badly you can't even put a pencil through them. Have sent pictures of boat when it was new, when I drove it from dealer lot, you can see corrosion starting even then. Have got nowhere! Lund are rebuilding people's transoms. 2017 model years (I think) both companies started to use composite materials for transom, before that was brown pressure treated etc...copper and aluminum don't like each other.

 

[dingbat]

Yes Chris, boat manufacture date Nov 2015, 10 year warranty...supposedly. I have electrical tested whole boat plus marina where dock, no current, everything grounded etc. I am now having to pay local Alumacraft dealer to front to back test as well, to show Alumacraft nothing to do w me or my use of boat. Here is my first response from Alumacraft customer service that they sent to dealer: "It appears that there is some corrosion or electrolysis possibly happening as well as some wear and tear on the unit. I would speak with the customer about the storage, cleaning and care procedures that they are using as well as the addition of electronics or accessories not approved by Alumacraft. Also you can mention the benefit of a sacrificial anode as an addition to an Aluminum boat as natural elements like water are the most corrosive elements there are and these items can assist with this." Total disingenuous reply! Splashwell drain holes corroding so badly you can't even put a pencil through them. Have sent pictures of boat when it was new, when I drove it from dealer lot, you can see corrosion starting even then. Have got nowhere! Lund are rebuilding people's transoms. 2017 model years (I think) both companies started to use composite materials for transom, before that was brown pressure treated etc...copper and aluminum don't like each other.

I don't see that as a disingenuous reply. Everything stated is fact.

Dis-similar metals (copper/aluminum) corrosion requires an electrolyte. Seeing that the splash well is involved....I'm guessing the splash well drains are leaking and you have a wet transom.

Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks a bit like filiform corrosion.

 

[Ron Edwards]

I don't see that as a disingenuous reply. Everything stated is fact.

Dis-similar metals (copper/aluminum) corrosion requires an electrolyte. Seeing that the splash well is involved....I'm guessing the splash well drains are leaking and you have a wet transom.

Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks a bit like filiform corrosion.

Thanks Dingbat. Attached is picture of transom on the day I brought boat home, if you zoom in, you can see "corrosion" around the splashwell holes. this was Nov. 2016, the boat was manufactured Nov. 2015. The splashwell holes were "corroding" already, when boat was new. Whatever is going on (yes, could well be Filiform corrosion) it is nothing to do with my care, maintenance etc. There is no stray current in water or on boat. I have tested everything and now am having to pay dealer to do the same. I have sent pictures to Alumacraft of everything. They don't care, claim it is not their problem. Another owner of the exact same boat, same year had similar problems. Alumacraft told the dealer to repaint transom. The dealer did that one fall, in the spring, was all bubbled up again. This owner had to fight with Alumacraft too, they finally agreed to have his boat shipped to MN and transom rebuilt. I have heard that Lund having similar issues with transoms, but they are honoring warranties; one fishing acquaintance had his Pro V transom replaced last winter under warranty. Why are Alumacraft not doing the same?

 

[RBoyd1971]

I have a hard time believing ALUMACRAFT is putting pressure treated wood in their transomes. I just replaced the wood in a 2016 15ft ALUMACRAFT John boat and it was completely rotted out. No way pressure treated wood would have done that. Also, the inside was raw aluminum directly against the wood and there was zero corrosion where there was contact. I've owned boats with pressure treated wood in them for years with minimal corrosion. The worst was one the was used in salt water constantly but it was easily repairable.

 

[chris.olson]

Right around 2015 or 2016 was the switchover at Alumacraft to all-aluminum transom. They used laminated marine plywood transom cores for 50 years before that.

Aluminum, including the grades used for boats, is a self-healing metal. That is, if you scratch it an expose raw aluminum it "heals" by forming a layer of aluminum oxide that prevents further corrosion. So aluminum is corrosion resistant, but not corrosion proof. And time you have two parts, an anode (such as a thru-hull made of a different grade of aluminum than the hull), a cathode (the hull itself) and an electrolyte (water), plus the presence of an electric current you will have galvanic corrosion (commonly called "electrolysis" but they are two different things). Obviously water got into the core in your transom and rotted it because of a bad thru-hull.

The only way to fix this is, if you can't find the source of the "leaking" electronics or equipment on your boat, is with a sacrificial anode. The less noble metal then becomes the target of the galvanic corrosion instead of your hull. ALL aluminum boats that are left in the water continuously (no boat lift or it stays tied up to the dock thru the summer) should have a zinc. Your outboard motor has one, and there's a reason for that - it's also made of aluminum and has electrical currents flowing thru it.

When it comes to isolating the problem it's almost impossible without tearing the whole boat apart and ohm everything out. It could be anything from a bad ground on your outboard to a bilge or livewell pump with a connection laying in water in the bilge. You can measure the current with a milliamp meter, but locating the source is very very difficult. The easiest way to fix it is with a zinc.

That being said, in both my experience and others, Alumacraft has always been excellent to work with on repairs - and you don't have to take my word for it

https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=580377

The boat has to be delivered to Alumacraft in St. Peter personally so they can evaluate it if you want it repaired. If you want to recore it yourself you will find them to be very helpful in getting the skins and the proper cut core, as well as needed rivets and sealant. I've done transoms on Alumacrafts that are 37 years old and they came up with the parts for me. You're not going to get much done sending them pictures and complaints. What do you expect them to do? They need the boat at the factory to be able to evaluate it. If your dealer can't provide them with anything but pictures, and doesn't have a marine tech that can identify the problem for a possible warranty coverage, then you don't have a very good dealer. Either way, Alumacraft needs the boat in St. Peter to fix it. You have two choices,
1) fix it yourself
2) take the boat to the factory at St. Peter and get a professional opinion

There is very few dealers that know how to replace a transom. Most of them are mere boat jockies that sell boats, bolt on accessories and stuff and fix outboards. When it comes to hull repairs most of them are clueless.

 

[CaptnKingfisher]

Right around 2015 or 2016 was the switchover at Alumacraft to all-aluminum transom. They used laminated marine plywood transom cores for 50 years before that.

Aluminum, including the grades used for boats, is a self-healing metal. That is, if you scratch it an expose raw aluminum it "heals" by forming a layer of aluminum oxide that prevents further corrosion. So aluminum is corrosion resistant, but not corrosion proof. And time you have two parts, an anode (such as a thru-hull made of a different grade of aluminum than the hull), a cathode (the hull itself) and an electrolyte (water), plus the presence of an electric current you will have galvanic corrosion (commonly called "electrolysis" but they are two different things). Obviously water got into the core in your transom and rotted it because of a bad thru-hull.

The only way to fix this is, if you can't find the source of the "leaking" electronics or equipment on your boat, is with a sacrificial anode. The less noble metal then becomes the target of the galvanic corrosion instead of your hull. ALL aluminum boats that are left in the water continuously (no boat lift or it stays tied up to the dock thru the summer) should have a zinc. Your outboard motor has one, and there's a reason for that - it's also made of aluminum and has electrical currents flowing thru it.

When it comes to isolating the problem it's almost impossible without tearing the whole boat apart and ohm everything out. It could be anything from a bad ground on your outboard to a bilge or livewell pump with a connection laying in water in the bilge. You can measure the current with a milliamp meter, but locating the source is very very difficult. The easiest way to fix it is with a zinc.

That being said, in both my experience and others, Alumacraft has always been excellent to work with on repairs - and you don't have to take my word for it

https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=580377

The boat has to be delivered to Alumacraft in St. Peter personally so they can evaluate it if you want it repaired. If you want to recore it yourself you will find them to be very helpful in getting the skins and the proper cut core, as well as needed rivets and sealant. I've done transoms on Alumacrafts that are 37 years old and they came up with the parts for me. You're not going to get much done sending them pictures and complaints. What do you expect them to do? They need the boat at the factory to be able to evaluate it. If your dealer can't provide them with anything but pictures, and doesn't have a marine tech that can identify the problem for a possible warranty coverage, then you don't have a very good dealer. Either way, Alumacraft needs the boat in St. Peter to fix it. You have two choices,
1) fix it yourself
2) take the boat to the factory at St. Peter and get a professional opinion

There is very few dealers that know how to replace a transom. Most of them are mere boat jockies that sell boats, bolt on accessories and stuff and fix outboards. When it comes to hull repairs most of them are clueless.

Awesome read thanks for sharing your knowledge

 

[Ron Edwards]

Awesome read thanks for sharing your knowledge

Right around 2015 or 2016 was the switchover at Alumacraft to all-aluminum transom. They used laminated marine plywood transom cores for 50 years before that.

Aluminum, including the grades used for boats, is a self-healing metal. That is, if you scratch it an expose raw aluminum it "heals" by forming a layer of aluminum oxide that prevents further corrosion. So aluminum is corrosion resistant, but not corrosion proof. And time you have two parts, an anode (such as a thru-hull made of a different grade of aluminum than the hull), a cathode (the hull itself) and an electrolyte (water), plus the presence of an electric current you will have galvanic corrosion (commonly called "electrolysis" but they are two different things). Obviously water got into the core in your transom and rotted it because of a bad thru-hull.

The only way to fix this is, if you can't find the source of the "leaking" electronics or equipment on your boat, is with a sacrificial anode. The less noble metal then becomes the target of the galvanic corrosion instead of your hull. ALL aluminum boats that are left in the water continuously (no boat lift or it stays tied up to the dock thru the summer) should have a zinc. Your outboard motor has one, and there's a reason for that - it's also made of aluminum and has electrical currents flowing thru it.

When it comes to isolating the problem it's almost impossible without tearing the whole boat apart and ohm everything out. It could be anything from a bad ground on your outboard to a bilge or livewell pump with a connection laying in water in the bilge. You can measure the current with a milliamp meter, but locating the source is very very difficult. The easiest way to fix it is with a zinc.

That being said, in both my experience and others, Alumacraft has always been excellent to work with on repairs - and you don't have to take my word for it

https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=580377

The boat has to be delivered to Alumacraft in St. Peter personally so they can evaluate it if you want it repaired. If you want to recore it yourself you will find them to be very helpful in getting the skins and the proper cut core, as well as needed rivets and sealant. I've done transoms on Alumacrafts that are 37 years old and they came up with the parts for me. You're not going to get much done sending them pictures and complaints. What do you expect them to do? They need the boat at the factory to be able to evaluate it. If your dealer can't provide them with anything but pictures, and doesn't have a marine tech that can identify the problem for a possible warranty coverage, then you don't have a very good dealer. Either way, Alumacraft needs the boat in St. Peter to fix it. You have two choices,
1) fix it yourself
2) take the boat to the factory at St. Peter and get a professional opinion

There is very few dealers that know how to replace a transom. Most of them are mere boat jockies that sell boats, bolt on accessories and stuff and fix outboards. When it comes to hull repairs most of them are clueless.

Thanks Chris. I & knowledgeable/ boat-smart friends have tested boat and docking at marina and island and have found no stray current. But I'm also paying local dealer to test everything as well. Nothing amiss crank battery end of things. They will test 36v system up front next. The annoying thing is that hull is supposed to have 10 year warranty, the splashwell holes were corroding from day 1, no doubt this is how water got inside transom. It is Alumacraft's postion that it is my fault that my boat is corroding is what makes me mad. I know that they have rebuilt other transom's on exact same year & boat. Zinc anode(s) yes, I have asked my dealer to look into this as well. Thx again for insight.

 

[chris.olson]

Thanks Chris. I & knowledgeable/ boat-smart friends have tested boat and docking at marina and island and have found no stray current. But I'm also paying local dealer to test everything as well. Nothing amiss crank battery end of things. They will test 36v system up front next. The annoying thing is that hull is supposed to have 10 year warranty, the splashwell holes were corroding from day 1, no doubt this is how water got inside transom. It is Alumacraft's postion that it is my fault that my boat is corroding is what makes me mad. I know that they have rebuilt other transom's on exact same year & boat. Zinc anode(s) yes, I have asked my dealer to look into this as well. Thx again for insight.

It could be the dealer's fault. What aftermarket accessories were dealer-installed?

Again, finding the actual source is just about impossible. If you use an ohm meter between the hull and a battery ground, do you get a continuity reading? The battery ground on your outboard likely makes the connection between the battery ground and the hull. At that point, I don't care who you are, you have current flowing in the hull. Points of different potential because you hooked a battery to a metal boat thru your outboard.

If it's a good ground (ohms out absolutely zero ohms) then the sacrificial annode on the outboard should take care of it. But it's usually not. You're going to find a few milliohms of resistance between the two because you didn't specifically bond your outboard to the hull. Right there is a potential source of galvanic corrosion.

What happens is that you have dissimilar metals in the boat in the presence of an electrolyte (water). Current will flow from the least noble metal (in this case aluminum) to a more noble metal like a stainless steel prop. Oxygen forms on the less noble metal and consumes it because stainless steel has high amounts of chromium and nickel. I'm not saying you have a stainless prop that is causing it, but it's one source I've seen.

This is why it's almost impossible to find the source but the corrosion shown in your photo does not happen unless it exists. Period. So your boat-smart friends that didn't find stray current don't mean anything because you already showed proof that you got it, and it's a given that you have current flowing in the hull.

So I have to agree with Alumacraft that it is not their fault. They are very good at what they do, and it is not a Tracker boat where you're going to find zinc plated screws screwed into a 6063 bulkhead. It is likely caused by something bolted to the boat after Alumacraft built it. The easiest way to fix it is with a zinc, which then becomes the least noble metal that is consumed instead of your hull, and that zinc has to be bonded electrically to the hull for it to work.

In the mean time you still have to fix your transom. There are no dealers that are going to be able to do it (that I have ever found). That leaves either you or Alumacraft to perform the repair. If you choose to do it yourself, it is quite time consuming tearing the stern apart, drilling and bucking rivets. But be thankful it's a tin boat where hull parts can be replaced instead of a GRP boat where everything is held together with glue and resin, because rotted transoms happen to glass boats too when water gets in.

 

[Ron Edwards]

Hi Chris, thank you very much for insight, I really appreciate it. I bought this 185 Competitor in 2016 > running an Alumacraft Lunker V16 Mag w a 50 Honda for 17 years. I went Alumacraft because this first boat lasted so long and the layout/ quality I figured was better than comparable Lund for primary use musky fishing. The dealer did all wiring and set-up: Helix 7/ Helix 9/ 112 Terrova 36V/ VHF radio/ mooring cover / turbo swing ski bar attached, and yes stainless prop? etc. What I am disappointed in is Alumacraft response. I bought from an authorized Alumacraft dealer. All along top of front gunwhale, where they put bow cover screws for the snaps, there is also corrosion? Quality of screws used etc? (lots on forums about this sort of thing). The thru hull plugs had corrosion from the start, if water getting inside transom through these, why is this on me and not Alumacraft? Their dealer did all installations, wiring etc, not me. Hull is supposed to have ten year warranty. The original dealer is no longer in existence, the replacement dealer in Winnipeg is doing a good job. They have tested everything from the crank battery, will test (> all snow gone) my 36v system. Have asked them to order some anodes/ zincs and new thru-hull connectors etc. But if the wood inside transom is rotting a full 4-5 years before warranty is up, why is this on me? I know they have rebuilt other peoples transoms and LUnd have been doing the same on 2015-2016 manufactured boats. It is just so frustrating when U buy dream-boat and you have issues from the get go that are no fault of your own. Ron

 

[chris.olson]

Ron, as far as I know only Alumacraft can perform a transom replacement at the factory. I don't know of any dealers that do that. It's a little drive from Winnipeg but I would suggest taking it to the factory in St. Peter, MN and have them look at it. You're not in-season yet and now would be the ideal time to do it. Shipping the boat to St. Peter thru a dealer is useless because Alumacraft needs the boat fully rigged to be able to evaluate it. Your boat should be new enough to get the all-aluminum transom in it.

Take it to Alumacraft and let them look at it - you might be pleasantly surprised at what they'll do for you. There is only so much they do over the internet with pictures and stuff. But I guarantee that if you make arrangements to get the boat the factory where they can evaluate it, they'll be right on it and you will get a truly professional opinion (or repair) if it's covered under the warranty. Lund is no different in that regard - the boat has to go to the factory for a transom, unless you do it yourself.

 

[King0509]

I have a 2016 Competitor 185 Le. Severe transom degradation being caused by reaction between aluminum and pressure treated marine plywood inners; copper based product etc. Lund are having same issues and are honoring warranties, to date, Alumacraft are not...I know of only 1 person with exact same boat that they have rebuilt transom but have heard that like me, other people are getting nowhere with Alumacraft? There is no stray current running through boat from crank or deepcycle and no current where I dock boat. Is anyone else having similar issues with Alumacraft not coming to table. Thank you. Ping Pong, Winnipeg, Manitoba.

Ron, I have the same exact boat as yours that I purchased in 2016 and had all accessories dealer installed and I just pulled it out of storage yesterday and notice similar corrosion as you mentioned starting in one of the drain holes. I never noticed it before but it’s bubbling bad and leaking a yellowish material. I’ve always noticed under the paint on the transom some bubbling in places but nothing like what I’m seeing now. My boat has always been stored inside covered. It’s a lightly used boat and looks as new as the day I bought. I’m reading this thread and I’m not sure I’m understanding the root cause and fix but it sounds like it’s best I take the boat the factory for an assessment. Is this correct? This is very disappointing. I don’t have an Alumacraft dealer in the local area. The one I purchased from doesn’t carry Alumacraft any longer.

 

[Ron Edwards]

Ron, I have the same exact boat as yours that I purchased in 2016 and had all accessories dealer installed and I just pulled it out of storage yesterday and notice similar corrosion as you mentioned starting in one of the drain holes. I never noticed it before but it’s bubbling bad and leaking a yellowish material. I’ve always noticed under the paint on the transom some bubbling in places but nothing like what I’m seeing now. My boat has always been stored inside covered. It’s a lightly used boat and looks as new as the day I bought. I’m reading this thread and I’m not sure I’m understanding the root cause and fix but it sounds like it’s best I take the boat the factory for an assessment. Is this correct? This is very disappointing. I don’t have an Alumacraft dealer in the local area. The one I purchased from doesn’t carry Alumacraft any longer.

Hi King0509, good timing, as I have an update on my boat. Per Alumacraft, I took my boat into Winnipeg dealer this spring, (dealer I purchased boat from no longer in business). The dealer claim that when they tested the front wiring/ harness for my 112 Terrova, that it was pumping current into my hull, they swapped this wiring harness out (Terrova female plug that is mounted on front faceplate of bow storage compartment) all the way down to where wires hook to troll batteries. They claim the new harness has rectified this problem?...but they can't tell me why the front harness was doing this (they found no knicks in covering etc). I also had dealer swap out the 4 brass-corroding splashwell plugs/ holes. They were almost completely degraded. This was necessary to stop water getting inside transom and rotting the wood. So, my total bill that I am trying to get back from Alumacraft is $1,450 CAD; the dealer also would not approach Alumacraft on my behalf with their report on what is causing the problem. The wiring harness's are factory installed, the 2016 catalogue lists "Trolling System" as a standard feature, and I have had this verified...Alumacraft are trying to wiggle out of contract by saying anything dealer installed is not covered-which is BS as they are Alumacraft authorized dealer. Alumacraft are doing nothing for me! I have also given them serial number of another exact same boat whose transom they reluctantly repaired in the winter/ spring of 2021. Alumacraft initially told Woodlake Marine in Kenora to repaint his transom. They did that, in spring, when he removed from storage, all the transom paint was re-bubbling (all his batteries were out). Alumacraft eventually told Woodlake to ship his boat to factory and they rebuilt his transom. My boat also has bubbling/ corrosion around the bow-cover stainless snaps as well as the transom. I know of at least three people who have Lund boats, same vintage, and Lund are admitting problems with treated wood used inside transoms, Alumacraft are not. 2017 model year, they both went to composite transoms. It is frustrating, these problems have nothing to do with anything I have done, attitude of Alumacraft customer support is terrible! So far BRP have not responded either. I scrapped off the bubbling paint and took wire brush and quickly cleaned with wire brush and repainted with Tremclad Rust paint. If the bubbling continues, only option will be to take legal action as Alumacraft are breaking their warranty contract.

 

[King0509]

Hi King0509, good timing, as I have an update on my boat. Per Alumacraft, I took my boat into Winnipeg dealer this spring, (dealer I purchased boat from no longer in business). The dealer claim that when they tested the front wiring/ harness for my 112 Terrova, that it was pumping current into my hull, they swapped this wiring harness out (Terrova female plug that is mounted on front faceplate of bow storage compartment) all the way down to where wires hook to troll batteries. They claim the new harness has rectified this problem?...but they can't tell me why the front harness was doing this (they found no knicks in covering etc). I also had dealer swap out the 4 brass-corroding splashwell plugs/ holes. They were almost completely degraded. This was necessary to stop water getting inside transom and rotting the wood. So, my total bill that I am trying to get back from Alumacraft is $1,450 CAD; the dealer also would not approach Alumacraft on my behalf with their report on what is causing the problem. The wiring harness's are factory installed, the 2016 catalogue lists "Trolling System" as a standard feature, and I have had this verified...Alumacraft are trying to wiggle out of contract by saying anything dealer installed is not covered-which is BS as they are Alumacraft authorized dealer. Alumacraft are doing nothing for me! I have also given them serial number of another exact same boat whose transom they reluctantly repaired in the winter/ spring of 2021. Alumacraft initially told Woodlake Marine in Kenora to repaint his transom. They did that, in spring, when he removed from storage, all the transom paint was re-bubbling (all his batteries were out). Alumacraft eventually told Woodlake to ship his boat to factory and they rebuilt his transom. My boat also has bubbling/ corrosion around the bow-cover stainless snaps as well as the transom. I know of at least three people who have Lund boats, same vintage, and Lund are admitting problems with treated wood used inside transoms, Alumacraft are not. 2017 model year, they both went to composite transoms. It is frustrating, these problems have nothing to do with anything I have done, attitude of Alumacraft customer support is terrible! So far BRP have not responded either. I scrapped off the bubbling paint and took wire brush and quickly cleaned with wire brush and repainted with Tremclad Rust paint. If the bubbling continues, only option will be to take legal action as Alumacraft are breaking their warranty contract. My email is pingpong@mymts.net and my cell is 204-793-8495. Ron Edwards, Winnipeg, Manitoba.

Ron,
Thanks for the reply. Very helpful. I got an email back from Alumacraft today telling me to take it to the nearest dealer to get it checked. My boat was wired from the factory as well. I wonder if I have the same issue. I’ll have to drag it to the nearest dealer which is a couples away from me to get it tested. I’ve always not corrosion around the ladder mount, drain holes and fasteners holding my fish finder transom mount. I didn’t see swelling in the drain hole or bubbling of paint with a crusty liquid until this week when I took it out of storage. I did have my deep cycle batteries out and the power connector from my onboard charger hanging loose with it plugged into charge my starting batter. I wonder if maybe the connections somehow touched the metal sensing current through it. I usually don’t remove the batteries but I did this year to keep them out of the cold. I guess I won’t know until I have it tested.

 

[chris.olson]

I’ve always not corrosion around the ladder mount, drain holes and fasteners holding my fish finder transom mount. I didn’t see swelling in the drain hole or bubbling of paint with a crusty liquid until this week when I took it out of storage.

That crusty yellow colored liquid is the treatment material they use in the marine plywood core of the transom. Which tells me the transom core is wet. 9 times out of 10 it's one the lower holes where the outboard mounts wasn't sealed correctly and is leaking water into the transom core. Once the transom core is wet they don't just dry out. It basically makes a battery in the transom because of the copper in the treatment liquid for pressure treated marine plywood being sandwiched between two sheets of thin aluminum with a battery ground wire connected to it thru the outboard's starter motor. The water just provides the electrolyte to activate it.

 

[Ron Edwards]

Ron,
Thanks for the reply. Very helpful. I got an email back from Alumacraft today telling me to take it to the nearest dealer to get it checked. My boat was wired from the factory as well. I wonder if I have the same issue. I’ll have to drag it to the nearest dealer which is a couples away from me to get it tested. I’ve always not corrosion around the ladder mount, drain holes and fasteners holding my fish finder transom mount. I didn’t see swelling in the drain hole or bubbling of paint with a crusty liquid until this week when I took it out of storage. I did have my deep cycle batteries out and the power connector from my onboard charger hanging loose with it plugged into charge my starting batter. I wonder if maybe the connections somehow touched the metal sensing current through it. I usually don’t remove the batteries but I did this year to keep them out of the cold. I guess I won’t know until I have it tested.

Hi King0509, any word back from your local dealer on the transom etc? My port side window just popped out this past weekend from the bottom frame, trying to figure out how to fix this now, sent Taylor Made an email.