Transom assessment - thoughts, ideas , suggestions?

joejiz

Cadet
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
19
Hi,

I got the boat for free and am getting a replacement engine for it for free. The difference in weight from old engine and newer used engine is new engine is 41 lbs heavier.

Essentially for 10 years a kicker motor mount was installed on back of transom on passenger side. This caused some of the fiberglass to separate which ultimately exposed some of the wood to rain. It appears to be a 2" thick single transom wood piece in this boat from side to side but don't quote me.

Along the transom the fiberglass part of the boat was pulled back due age ever so slightly and finally the drivers side raised transom area is fine because no one hung a kicker motor off that side.

So here we have it. I admit yes there is some water exposure to the wood as seen in the pictures. I've read I can do the following to help me decide to continue:

1 - remove all the old drain plug plastic housings and then inspect around those locations with flash light and small screw driver to see if it is brutally watered.
2 - ball peen hammer the transom and mark where sound changes. ( I've done this and 3/4 of the transom from bottom to top are all sound ). It's only the top 1/4 - which isn't that bad visually, deflection is visible only on top 2" inches going down but that is expected from kicker engine and small rain exposure. ( can create a steel bracket front and back to reinforce )
3 - moisture tester- buy and test

I have heard I can:

1 - buy stainless steel plates and nut and bolt them across the transom to create more strength.
2 - pay some to come and tell me is see wood and say he would never risk his name on saying this if fine and take my $100

What are your thoughts, I've used the boat tons way back when it worked, drove fine, doesn't leak, fun to drive.
 

Attachments

  • photo317471.jpg
    photo317471.jpg
    102.4 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317472.jpg
    photo317472.jpg
    116.7 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317473.jpg
    photo317473.jpg
    137.2 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317474.jpg
    photo317474.jpg
    46.2 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317475.jpg
    photo317475.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317476.jpg
    photo317476.jpg
    57 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317477.jpg
    photo317477.jpg
    143.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317478.jpg
    photo317478.jpg
    89.9 KB · Views: 0
  • photo317479.jpg
    photo317479.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,737
Chill out lots of things going on in the summer...like boating. Welcome aboard! Lots of guys to help you out.
Synopsis;
Total rehab, plain and simple.
That said it all depends on how far you want to go with labor, time and $$.
You could buy a boat tomorrow for more or less $$ with all and worse problems. The question is if you really like that style boat and want to DIG into it and make it yours.
It'll be better than the way the factory pooped it out. :D
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,893
free boats are the most expensive. if they were worth anything, they would have sold it to you. it was given to you because it will cost more than its worth to make it seaworthy

your transom is shot

you can not band-aid it. no you cant bolt on a plate. its shot and needs to be repaired correctly or you risk sinking and drowning.

you need to either remove the cap and splashwell, then properly replace the transom, and most likely the stringers and floor. or you can cut a section of the cap and splashwell out to be able to replace the transom, stringers, and floor, then go back and repair the cap.

it will probably cost you about $2000-$3000 to get the hull back to tip-top shape. then you have the engine and interior to deal with...

or give the boat back to the other guy, and buy an aluminum boat and go boating today for less money than it will cost you to bring that boat back from the dead.
 

garbageguy

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
1,582
Hi,

...What are your thoughts..

I think Scott is right, also that I didn't see anything in the OP about test drilling - there's lot of info on this forum about that test - if you feel more testing is needed
 

joejiz

Cadet
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
19
Thank you everyone, it was a family boat, yes investing funds into are limited for a full rebuild but at least the trailer is worth $500. the engine and canopy were all done awhile ago and i have a free engine. So I thought I'd assess the condition etc before committing. I'm not sure why uncle why my uncle was so hard on the transom and hung a side motor off it. obviously for trolling. ah crap, well it was what i thought everyone would say. all drill tests below the top 1/4 are all find. The hammer test pasts as solid on the lower 3/4 of it. Like anything it's up to the owner to decide if a plate system of $225 and full re-enforcement is worth it.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,928
I'm sure you won't find any member here that will agree with ANY Band Aid Method. They don't work and They're simply NOT SAFE!!!! I'd Strongly recommend a total rebuild and do it right, or don't do it at all. If the transom is bad there's a HIGH probability that the stringers are gone too. But...
It's our boat and your decision.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,683
One thing to think about is why a bunch of guys with a ton of experience using and working on boats would all tell you that your plan isn't safe. Another thing to ponder is why someone would come here for advice only to disregard exactly what they came here for.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
738
One thing to think about is why a bunch of guys with a ton of experience using and working on boats would all tell you that your plan isn't safe. Another thing to ponder is why someone would come here for advice only to disregard exactly what they came here for.

It doesn't help in that most of society and commercial forces push to indoctinate instant gratification in people's minds and too much being disposable products.

"Run it into the ground, we can just buy another cheap and throw away this one."

Then you have transmissions and engines that are becoming non-rebuilable throw away items to increase product consumption.

I recommend that you throw away that hull and get something worth restoring.

I'm sure the experts here in the community can guide you into what to look for.

Remember that you will get almost zero money back in restoring it.

An old $700 boat used book value is only that, no matter how much money you throw at the hull to fix it up.
 

emoney

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
2,551
You have a motor and you have a trailer. The hull will be the easy thing to find, especially this time of the year. Find someone who’s got a blown motor and you’re golden. There is no way to be on the water this season with what you have. What hasn’t been said, but assumed, is that you know that boats with structural issue sink all the time with people in them. The “free boat is the most expensive” comment was dead on.
 

steve_h7

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
401
Thank you everyone, it was a family boat, yes investing funds into are limited for a full rebuild but at least the trailer is worth $500. the engine and canopy were all done awhile ago and i have a free engine. So I thought I'd assess the condition etc before committing. I'm not sure why uncle why my uncle was so hard on the transom and hung a side motor off it. obviously for trolling. ah crap, well it was what i thought everyone would say. all drill tests below the top 1/4 are all find. The hammer test pasts as solid on the lower 3/4 of it. Like anything it's up to the owner to decide if a plate system of $225 and full re-enforcement is worth it.

If it has sentimental value I can understand the drive to restore it. If the funds aren't there now, take your time to do it right. You won't be sorry and you'll have something you can pass on to your kids.
 
Top