Trailer Leaf Springs

further

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Hey all, looking to replace my old rusty leaf springs with new ones. Never done this before. As far as sizing, I measured from bolt to bolt and got 27", it's a 4 leaf spring and 1-3/4" width. The 27" was with the trailer wheels on the ground loaded with the boat. Is this the proper measurement or am I supposed to jack it up and take the load off for the measurement? Any other tips or tricks? I plan on replacing the u bolts as well of course. Thanks in advance.
 

alldodge

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Don't over think it. Trailer springs are designed by number of leafs (capacity), number of eyes and slippers, then length. Look at the capacity of your axle and then go google trailer axle leaf springs, all kinds of stuff will come up
 

pscrabber59

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Replacing trailer springs are pretty simple as i just replaced mine 2 wks ago as long as you measure your old ones which i had to take tire off to measure first and find the proper fit and ordered some online. I replaced both hubs as they were rusty just like the old springs. If a lughead like myself can install them you should have no problems!!
 

redneck joe

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Etrailer has lots of great info and yeah im an idiot and i was able to redo my whole trailer. I had a thread called trailer rehab if you want tosearch for it i got lots of great infonfrom the folks here.
 

robert graham

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Remove one of the springs and take it to Northern Tool or Tractor Supply or similar place and match it up with one of their springs....the folks at the store may be able to provide some good insight to choosing the correct spring. I always spray my springs and hubs with White Lithium Grease and it sets up on the metal to protect from water/ corrosion...especially saltwater...
 

Scott Danforth

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further

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Thanks guys. After some more looking and measuring I have slipper springs. Measured them up and ordered from etrailer.com. Aside from getting the bolts loose, Looks pretty straight forward.
 

further

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Ok, well so much for easy peasy... So the springs are the slipper type with a loop on one end. Received the new springs - length is good and width is good except the old springs are wider at the eyelet and are 2" instead of 1-3/4". Looks like the old bushing sticks out a bit more on both sides. The space between the mounting plates on both the eyelet side and the loop slipper side is 2-1/8" so the 1-3/4" is going to be too narrow and I'm imaging too much play? Also the bolt that came with the spring was for the eye mount side and is 9/16"... the holes in the mounting plates are 1/2"... ughhhh. Not too concerned with this cause I can drill them out to make them bigger. I had to cut out the bolt and bushing on the loop slipper side and so now need a new bushing and bolt for that side as well.

Question - do I have to keep it slipper style? or can I just return the slipper springs and replace this with a double eye spring? I'm not seeing any slipper loop springs that are 2" wide, only 1-3/4".
Thanks in advance.
 

alldodge

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Question - do I have to keep it slipper style? or can I just return the slipper springs and replace this with a double eye spring? I'm not seeing any slipper loop springs that are 2" wide, only 1-3/4".

I know the difference between the types of springs but would really like to see your setup before commenting. Got a pic?
 

further

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if I remember, there are two types of slipper.

The ones i have are the c-hook type slippers.
CHOOK%20SPRING%2026%205%20LF.jpg
 

alldodge

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Slipper springs can handle a heavier loads then shackles. Your 27 inch spring is probably a 26 inch and is rated at 2000# or so.
http://www.championtrailers.com/c-hook-trailer-springs/

A double eye appears to be 1850# for the 26 inch spring (a bit less). While you can increase the size you need to get it back up to the 2K to give you room for bounce.
http://www.championtrailers.com/double-eye-trailer-springs/

When it comes right down to it, the springs may be rusty but the strength is still there
 

further

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No Title

So here's the work in progress.


Both eye/bow side and c-hook/stern side have the same hangers. The spring you see there is the new one. I found Bolts and bushings to use on the c-hook side that should be delivered tomorrow.
 

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further

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Well, took some finagling but got it together. Didn't take off the c-hook bolt and bushing on the other side so did thave to deal with it. Came out good I think. Thanks for the advice to all.
 

bob johnson

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it seems that a trailer made like yours could be a real pain getting square...because with U bolts holding the spring handers, ( and thus positioning the axle) that a lot of measurements would have to be taken if those spring hanger brackets ever moved. On all the trailers I have and have had( 5 right now) there is a U or L shaped sub frame that slides forward or back WITH the spring hangers brackets. the sub frame has a series of holes in it, as does the frame, so when you position the front bolt in the #2 hole and do the same on the other side of the trailer... you are square.... seems hard to mess up..... but your individual U bolts.... look easy to mess up.

bob
 

further

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it seems that a trailer made like yours could be a real pain getting square...because with U bolts holding the spring handers, ( and thus positioning the axle) that a lot of measurements would have to be taken if those spring hanger brackets ever moved. On all the trailers I have and have had( 5 right now) there is a U or L shaped sub frame that slides forward or back WITH the spring hangers brackets. the sub frame has a series of holes in it, as does the frame, so when you position the front bolt in the #2 hole and do the same on the other side of the trailer... you are square.... seems hard to mess up..... but your individual U bolts.... look easy to mess up.

bob

You're probably right, that's why I definitely won't venture into moving anything and replace the old with new in exactly the same locations. :)
 
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