trailer coupler

[Richsher64]

I have a trailer coupler 1 7/8 " when i was backing in to my drive i bent the coupler ,so i used a few tools to straighten back out but apparently i bent the metal around the coupler that slides over the ball and now it does not drop down on the ball ,now this coupler is welded on ,do i need to have this weld cut off to replace coupler or is there another way around replacing this coupler without having the weld cut

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: trailer coupler

you can do both depending on what you want to do, I hate HATE HATE HATE HATE 1 7/8" couplers for the very reason you have they are weak, you can purchase a new coupler in either 1 7/8" or 2", you can either bolt it on or weld it, I weld and prefer welding it. Removing the old one you can cut the tongue if you have room or simply grind the welded one off with a grinder which would probably take less then 10 minutes. This is the perfect opportunity to upgrade, it all depends on your mechanical fortitude. Of course you can always have it done as well too.

 

[dozerII]

Re: trailer coupler

If you decide to bolt on a new one, as I do,. Make some spacers out of 1/2 black pipe cut to the same size as the inside of your trailers tongue. These will stop the bolts from crushing it. I install two bolts through the side holes and one short one down through the front top hole. I also always upgrade to a 2" ball size.
Glen

 

[seaboo]

Re: trailer coupler

If you decide to bolt on a new one, as I do,. Make some spacers out of 1/2 black pipe cut to the same size as the inside of your trailers tongue. These will stop the bolts from crushing it. I install two bolts through the side holes and one short one down through the front top hole. I also always upgrade to a 2" ball size.
Glen

+1

I would upgrade tp the 2" also. The 1 7/8ths coupler is weaker (well...carries less weight) than a 2" coupler, and IMO 2" couplers are more popular so more stores stock them.

 

[lncoop]

Re: trailer coupler

Definitely go with 2". I'm not even sure trailers come with 1 7/8" anymore. Should be able to pick up a coupler and have any decent welder put it on for you for a nominal fee.

 

[bigdee]

Re: trailer coupler

If you want to DIY and save $$$$ you might want to look at Harbor Freight......they have a 2" coupler for $16.99 and a 4-1/2" grinder for $9.99. A trip to the hardware store for some quality bolts and you should come out for about $30

 

[Richsher64]

Re: trailer coupler

you can do both depending on what you want to do, I hate HATE HATE HATE HATE 1 7/8" couplers for the very reason you have they are weak, you can purchase a new coupler in either 1 7/8" or 2", you can either bolt it on or weld it, I weld and prefer welding it. Removing the old one you can cut the tongue if you have room or simply grind the welded one off with a grinder which would probably take less then 10 minutes. This is the perfect opportunity to upgrade, it all depends on your mechanical fortitude. Of course you can always have it done as well too.

Thanks , This information is very helpful..

 

[Richsher64]

Re: trailer coupler

If you want to DIY and save $$$$ you might want to look at Harbor Freight......they have a 2" coupler for $16.99 and a 4-1/2" grinder for $9.99. A trip to the hardware store for some quality bolts and you should come out for about $30

Oh ok thats great because i have a harbour freight not to far from me ,so i have a few options thanks so much..

 

[Richsher64]

Re: trailer coupler

If you decide to bolt on a new one, as I do,. Make some spacers out of 1/2 black pipe cut to the same size as the inside of your trailers tongue. These will stop the bolts from crushing it. I install two bolts through the side holes and one short one down through the front top hole. I also always upgrade to a 2" ball size.
Glen

Cool this sounds like a fesible option ,thanks for the reply

 

[xeddog]

Re: trailer coupler

I gotta say that using a coupler from Harbor Freight would just give me a severe case of the willies. I use HF stuff for some things, but a boat coupler?? Not me.

Wayne

 

[phoenixisrizen]

Re: trailer coupler

I gotta say that using a coupler from Harbor Freight would just give me a severe case of the willies. I use HF stuff for some things, but a boat coupler?? Not me.

Wayne

I believe I would have to concur. This is not a place to do it on the cheap.

 

[bigdee]

Re: trailer coupler

I gotta say that using a coupler from Harbor Freight would just give me a severe case of the willies. I use HF stuff for some things, but a boat coupler?? Not me.

Wayne

come on guys, it's not rocket science just a stamped piece of steel. Yes it is made in china but is dot approved and it's sale is regulated. Where can you buy a coupler that is made in the USA? Look at Reese they are made in china and probably by the same manufacturer. If there was a history of problems with this you can bet the Feds (along with the lawyers) would have stepped in long ago. $16.99 is not cheap compared to the other HF merchandise. If your paranoid over Chinese products you better park whatever you drive including Harley Davidson because a large percentage was made in china. I don't like it but this is reality.

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: trailer coupler

I believe I would have to concur. This is not a place to do it on the cheap.

I also agree and might add the crappy tongue jacks.

 

[dozerII]

Re: trailer coupler

I think the only way to could find a coupler that wasn't made in China would be to find a new old stock one from the sixties some where!!! lol

 

[seaboo]

Re: trailer coupler

Whatever coupler you decide on (personally I feel they all meet SOME sort of standard....just be sure to check the weight limitations the manufacture places on it). I would NOT weld it on, if for no other reason, suppose you (or someone backing the trailer in for you) bends it at the ramp and you have to replace it on site. 2 wrenches are MUCH easier to get a hold of compared to a hacksaw and/or a grinder to remove the welds (not to mention how you would attach the new one without a drill or welder) at a ramp.

I know the chances are slim of that event occurring, but still.

I ran a rental company for a while (equipment and trailers to haul said equipment on) and a bolted on coupler replacement is SO much quicker than a welded on coupler.

 

[Sixmark]

Re: trailer coupler

Here's an FYI for many of you, many of the 2" and 1-7/8" couplers are stamped out of the identical metal, thus rendering the issue of strength useless. The only advantage in that case would be that it would distribute the working load limit into a 1/8" larger diameter.

If you bent it backing up, then you effectively jacknifed the trailer, you would experience the same result with the 2" variety as well, unless it was made with a thicker metal than the 1-7/8".

The other aspect to look at is that many replacement couplers are 3 sided or U shaped get a 4 side or BOX shape coupler if you can, the 1 extra wall can make a big difference in structural integrity, but even then you still take your chances.

Just this summer i got to looking at my trailer and found that the metal on the trailer was that same thickness as that on the coupler, therefore I went the route of inserting a cross reinforced section of box steel inside the tongue (because the original tongue was starting to cave in where items were bolted to it.)