Trailer bearing tightness question

[QuadManiac]

Bought this boat 9 months ago, knew the owner and the well kept condition of the boat and trailer. Okay, so I pulled the trailer's wheels yesterday, feeling it was time. Removed, cleaned and re-packed the bearings.

When I re-assembled and tightened down the axle nuts, I had two options, forced by the location of the cotter pin (new one, of course) passing through the castellated nut. I could go slightly tight, so there's no play in the bearings, but the wheel continues to free-wheel for quite some time when spun, or I could go slightly loose, so the bearings have a small amount of play, maybe 1/16" or less of wheel rock.

Which is the best decision? I chose the tighter one, but am now concerned about the possibility of overheating or premature bearing/race wear.

I'd appreciate some advice from those more educated here.

 

[bjcsc]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Something is not right. There should be a greater distance between 1/16" of play and too tight. General rule of thumb for tapered bearings: Tighten as much as it will tighten with reasonable force while spinning the wheel. Back off 120 degrees, line up the hole...

 

[JB]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

I tighten them until there is noticable braking of the wheel, then back off to the closest fit for the cotter pin. No wobble allowed.

I think that is the same as the first option you describe.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

I do the same as JB. Snug 'em up good and then back off to the first opportunity to put the cotter key in.

 

[QuadManiac]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Yep, that answers it... tightened it up till it noticeably slowed rotation... backed off 1 castellation, still tight, but rotation is smooth and long. Back off 1 more and I can feel play in the bearings. So, I made the right decision, still tight but no slowing or play.

With all my autos, there's a torque spec to start from, i.e., tighten to 25 ft/lbs while turning wheel clockwise, then back off 2 castellations. I don't have that luxury with the trailer. But similar sense prevails.

Thanks!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Straight from the Shorelander Trailer manual:

1-1/16 x 1-1/16 bearings: Rotate wheel and tighten to 20 INCH lbs.

1-1/16 x 1-3/8 bearings: Rotate wheel and tighten to 30 INCH lbs.

Look for the cotter pin hole through the spindle nut slots. If you can see any part of the hole, turn the nut counterclockwise until the next slot in the nut lines up with the hole. Insert the cotter pin. If you can't see the hole, turn the nut counterclockwise until the hole is visible. Insert the cotter pin.

Note: Shorelander uses cross-drilled spindles so there are cotter pin holes at 90 degrees. You therefore have two sets of holes to look for. If the spindle has one hole the adjustment is the same however.

This adjustment will give you from one-thousandths to ten-thousandths end play which is in-tolerance for proper adjustment.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

I torque the nut while rotating the tire to approx 20 lbs. I then back off the nut and then finger tighten it and put in the cotter pin. The importance of torquing the nut to 20 lbs is to preload the bearing.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Not trying to be argumentative here, but what does preload mean. Do you torque it to assure all the play(slop) is removed? Is that what you mean by preload.

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Not trying to be argumentative here, but what does preload mean. Do you torque it to assure all the play(slop) is removed? Is that what you mean by preload.

That's the way I understand it and do it...

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

That's essentially how I do it too. I just don't use a torque wrench. Just snug it up with an adjustable or whatever, then back it off enough to get the cotter pin in. I have heard the term preload, but was unsure what it meant.

 

[BF]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

yes, I agree with everyone above... read my post below about getting lucky and avoiding bearing failure. The owner before had wrench tightened to get the cotter pin into the next tightest hole, not loosened it to get the cotter pin in. The wheel turned reasonably well, but with some resistance because of the bearing tightness. It ran warm. Not overly hot, but about coffee cup warm/hot. That is not right IMHO.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

If the bearings have been merely removed for cleaning, there is no need to pre-load them again. Installation of new bearings and races is when pre-load comes into play as it fully seats the races in the event they have not been fully seated. And note that Shorelander says 20 or 30 INCH pounds, not foot pounds. Overtorque on a bearing can damage the race and/or bearings. In fact it can fracture the race. A tapered roller bearing needs some clearance or end play.

 

[Bigprairie1]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

I tighten them until there is noticable braking of the wheel, then back off to the closest fit for the cotter pin. No wobble allowed.

This as well as the next couple of threads is what I believe as well to be correct.
I did mine two days ago and I asked a mechanic about it. He said...no play in the bearing. Tighten it to just take out the play and cotter it. Do not back it off to where there is noticeable (clunk-clunk) slop. No discernable wobble. They use a 12-20lb ft rule on most trailers. This isn't a lot torque. When hitting it and tightening it up you should tighten, back-off, tighten, back-off and then tighten again...at least about 3 times. This allows you to compact some of the grease and set everything.
These bearings (18' Bowrider w/ single axle trailer) are not under the same stress of a vehicles front end at all so they don't have the same pre-load requirements. A car/truck has steering considerations, safety overbuild, many other factors that affect its bearing installation.
Important Note: These bearings and the grease will loosen up a bit over a 1000 miles anyways. The grease will thin/layer out slightly from when first assembled once it warms up and is fully spread.
Either way if you are within one notch on the castellated nut of feeling you are either a little too tight or a little too loose you are probably not going to see the difference one way or the other and are probably good.
Good Luck.
Speaking of which, I'm heading out tomorrow on the ol' family holiday with mine through the infamous transmission killer Coquihalla hwy in the Okanagan- B.C. .....hope I did a good job on those bearings!!!

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

A tight bearing will overheat and fail in a short space of time !!! Does not matter how well greased it is. Zero clearance = an interference fit.
How long ?? well there are a gazillion variations with weight, load and force but every bearing ever made MUST have a hint of play in it for it to function properly.
There should be just a "hint" of free play at the extremes of the tire to be best effective. I have just come back from a 500 mile each way trip about an hour ago using this theory without any troubles. Checked bearing temperature and tire temperature at the gas stops and all was nice and cool.
Proper bearing setting and correct tire pressures are vital. Saw a few horror stories along the way with some trailers though.

 

[Bigprairie1]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Kenmyfan....there is clearance. However there is no clunk-clunk clearance. "No Discernable Wobble". When everything is new and first assembled for these the grease has not worked into place yet and presents a certain resistance to take-up. These bearings are not as big as car bearings and are not even subject to the same amount of thermal expansion.
Tighten up the bearing as mentioned and go for a good 1-2 hr drive or thereabouts and try the clearance again. You will probably notice a difference.
After 1000 miles you definitely will.
Its like torqueing lug nuts or many other fasteners. They usually want you to RETORQUE after either a period of time or a distance. This in itself implies the 'setting' of the fastener/pinch is now complete.
That said, I will probably recheck my bearings at the top of the ol' Coquihalla or in Kelowna before I head back home after the holidays.
Better safe than sorry.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

Kenmyfan....there is clearance. However there is no clunk-clunk clearance. "No Discernable Wobble". When everything is new and first assembled for these the grease has not worked into place yet and presents a certain resistance to take-up. These bearings are not as big as car bearings and are not even subject to the same amount of thermal expansion.
Tighten up the bearing as mentioned and go for a good 1-2 hr drive or thereabouts and try the clearance again. You will probably notice a difference.
After 1000 miles you definitely will.
Its like torqueing lug nuts or many other fasteners. They usually want you to RETORQUE after either a period of time or a distance. This in itself implies the 'setting' of the fastener/pinch is now complete.
That said, I will probably recheck my bearings at the top of the ol' Coquihalla or in Kelowna before I head back home after the holidays.
Better safe than sorry.

Please note that I did not say "clunck clearance" but I did say a "hint" of clearance. Clunck is a no no but so is too tight.
Enjoy your trip.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

.001 - 0.010" end play is not "clunkiness" by any means. In fact you really have to feel for it. But tight (no clearance) is simply not good.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

I have read all of the above, but I still have a few questions regarding my recently replaced hubs/bearings.

1st) I installed the nut, then tightened it snug. I then backed it off a bit. At one setting, I couldn't get the hub to spin, but maybe 1/2 a turn. At the next setting back, I could get the hub to spin a little over 1 turn. I didn't feel any slop or back/fourth movement, but the nut felt only about hand tight. I haven't installed the wheel yet.

Does that sound right?

2nd) My spindles used a tappered steel pin instead of a cotter pin. Should I replace that pin and go with a cotter pin instead? I know you should replace a cotter pin, but I've never come across the steel pin.

3rd) Are you guys saying I should see if I can go tighter on the nut after my next trip?

4th) My spindles have the grease zert in the end, I guess they are called EZLube Axles or something. Can someone explain how those setups get grease to the bearings? I know there are holes in the spindle, but it appears the rear hole is under the race or just in front/behind the race and the front hole is plugged by the pin holding the nut in place. My understanding is you don't want the entire hub filled with grease. Am I right or wrong?

Thanks!!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

You need to make these adjustments with the wheel installed. You can't properly feel for end play without it. Snug up the nut. Back it off and then tighten finger tight. Back up to the first hole and insert the pin. Now with your hands at the top and bottom of the tire, push in on the top and out on the bottom of the wheel to feel for clearance. As was indicated, 0.001 - 0.010 (one to 10 thousandths) of an inch is not much clearance and takes a gentle touch to feel. Bearings are best packed by hand or using a bearing packer too. Installing them dry and using the EZ-lub feature is not "packing the bearings". That feature is used to "add" grease.

 

[MASTER Brian]

Re: Trailer bearing tightness question

You need to make these adjustments with the wheel installed. You can't properly feel for end play without it. Snug up the nut. Back it off and then tighten finger tight. Back up to the first hole and insert the pin.

Ok, I'll install the wheels and re-check using your guidelines. I planned on rechecking it once the wheel is installed, I just didn't have enough grease in my gun to fill the spindles and the new zert's they sold me are a different thread pattern so I need to find the correct ones. Since a tow truck dropped my trailer off, it's sitting in my drive and I figure there's less chance of my boat leaving without wheels! Even though I have 2 locks on it....I just haven't had a good week!!

Now with your hands at the top and bottom of the tire, push in on the top and out on the bottom of the wheel to feel for clearance. As was indicated, 0.001 - 0.010 (one to 10 thousandths) of an inch is not much clearance and takes a gentle touch to feel.

This makes sense now. For some reason it sometimes takes me reading something 3 times before I understand what is being said!!!

Bearings are best packed by hand or using a bearing packer too. Installing them dry and using the EZ-lub feature is not "packing the bearings". That feature is used to "add" grease.

You must have mis-understood me. I did pack the bearings by hand and realize the EZ-lube hub feature is for adding grease. I am just curious, how much grease I should add down the road. Do I let the grease "fill" the hub or before the hub starts getting full, should I pull the hub off and clean the old grease out and re-pack the bearings?
The reason I question this is because my understanding is the hub should NOT be full of grease. I also don't see how the EZ lube feature gets the grease to the front and rear bearings if the hub isn't filled with grease. Maybe it will make more sense when I get home tonight and can actually squirt some grease into the spindle/hub via the grease zert, but I'd like to know what I'm looking for.