Trailer bearing races

[BoatBuoy]

YeHaw, I'm glad I found this site. Some mighty knowledgeable people here. I hope some will be able to help me, or humor me.<br /><br />Pulled my boat up out of the weeds for the first time in 12 years or so. Removed the first hub to replace the bearings. Old ones were a little rusty. The outside bearing came out OK and I pecked the race out. Inside bearing came out OK but I had to beat furiously on the race to get it out. <br /><br />Now there's a rust ring around the inside of the hub between where the bearing rests and the grease seal should be. The race needs to be pressed past this point, but it won't go. Is a brake cylinder hone the tool of choice to clean up this area? And if I use it just a little too much, I'm afraid the race will spin when the wheel turns. How should I prevent that from happening? Any advice would be helpful.<br /><br />Thank-you,<br />Charles<br /><br />Oops, I just thought of another question. There's never been a washer between the castle nut and the outer bearing. Should there be?

 

[Cobotr]

Re: Trailer bearing races

You could try a wire brush mounted to a drill to clean up that area. Should clean up pretty good without removing any critical material. That outer race needs to be driven into position. It is meant to be a tight fit. Just make sure you drive it all the way in. The tone of the driving changes when you get it driven in as far as it will go.<br /><br />I hope your outer bearing outer race had to be driven in and didn't just push in with your fingers. If so, there is something wrong. All the outer races (inboard and outboard) should be tight enough that they have to be driven into position.<br /><br />Mostly all hubs should have a spacer or washer between the outer bearing and the nut. This washer applies even pressure to the bearing to the race as well as prevents the nut from tightening/loosening in the event of a bearing failure.

 

[tailfin10]

Re: Trailer bearing races

Boatbuoy,<br /> Do your self a favor and buy two new fully<br />assembled hubs , pick the proper lug arrangement<br />and spindle size.Jack up the trailer,remove old hubs, clean spindles especially around were the<br />rear seal sets . Shine them up with emery cloth,<br />if the spindles show any groves or abnormal wear<br />replace them also. If this is required they will<br />have to be ground around the weld to remove and<br />new ones welded in recommend a good welder here.<br />You must not spatter weld onto seal area. Install<br />new assembled hubs on lightly greased spindle,<br />install nut (with washer) to a light torque.Bolt<br />on wheel, spin slowly as you tighten the nut until wheel turns with resistence ( you are trying to seat seal here)loosen nut until wheel<br />turns free with no end play. Install cotter pin and bend over so they dont interfer with caps.Tap on a couple of bearing buddies , grease according to instructions (do not over grease you will over pressure the rear seal!) Watch the rear seal for a while to ensure they are seated and grease is not blowing by.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Trailer bearing races

Cobotr, taifin10,<br /> I appreciate your replies. Here's what I've done. The rust and irregular surface didn't respond to a wire brush. I then used a brake cylinder brake hone and attempted to clean them up. I still couldn't get the races in. Subject hub is now at the machine shop. I figured I'd let the pros handle it.<br /><br />I could have bought new hubs but this trailer is a 48 year old Gator and I'd like to preserve as original as possible. It's older than a lot of people I know. Probably silly of me, huh.

 

[billj]

Re: Trailer bearing races

FWIW, here's my experience with trailer bearing washers: my first trailer had washers, an my current one doesn't. If your hub takes a washer, the axle will have a groove to accept a tabbed washer. If the axle has no groove--no washer. Also, the cotter pin hole will usually be nearly to the bottom of the slots in the castle nut when properly installed (whether the hub takes a washer or not), with just enough clearance to install the pin. If the hole is nearly to the top of the "castles", perhaps you are missing washers. On a "no washer" hub, adding a washer usually prevents the nut from clearing the cotter pin hole.<br /><br />As to the races, I replaced mine this spring. The old ones came out OK, but I could not for the life of me drive the new ones in. This is the first time I've ever done the job on this trailer. I ended up taking the hubs and races to a local mechanic to have them pressed in on his press.<br /><br />Bill

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Trailer bearing races

billj,<br /> My experience has been as yours. I've replaced the races in these hubs several times before, but this time they were especially stubborn.<br /><br />As far as the washer under the castle nut, I appreciate your advice. As it turns out, if the castle nut had a washer behind it, the hole for the cotter pin would not be exposed. Also there is not a groove for a tab on a washer. Good call.

 

[djvan]

Re: Trailer bearing races

Throw the races in the freezer overnight and warm the hubs (in oven if better half will allow), the races usually will almost push into position by hand.<br /><br />HTH's<br /><br />DougV>