Tracker Guide V14 transom modification

UGSC43

Cadet
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May 6, 2020
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10
Hello there everyone, I am restoring my old 1992 (I think) Tracker Guide V14. I did it once before maybe about 7 years ago, but I didn’t do some things right and I also let it sit to long under an oak tree and well it turned into a planter box if you will.

But what the issue is, is the transom modification. My circumstances are I can’t afford both a new boat and a motor. We all know times are hard for folks right now, me included. I am mechanically handy and I’ve done my research and the motor I want is a Thai Longtail coupled to a Briggs Vanguard 23 horse engine. I think it’s a reliable setup and the tail is mechanically simple and the brand seems to me to be well made. The setup also fits me best for power, reliability and simplicity for the money. But to use it on the boat and get good performance I need a 15 inch or so transom, not a 20. As I am told these Longtails perform better when on a 15 as opposed to a 20. I don’t plan on any “hardcore muddin” as it’s a v hull and not a mud boat. But I would like to get through shallow waters of about 10” or more. Around here our lake and river bottoms have hard bottoms of iron ore, red clay, some shale and sometimes a bit of silt or decayed plant matter. So I won’t need a huge demand for it to function as a mud motor so much but more as a rugged outboard that can handle some things a conventional outboard can’t or shouldn’t. I thought I’d explain that so the modification would make more sense.

Anyway my concerns are, will I compromise any strength or rigidity, if so how can I compensate. I do plan on adding some channel iron along the transom top to stiffen it. I also need the width on the crop so I can pivot the motor 180 for trailering and for on the water maneuvering, the motor will need to pivot down into the boat as well so the tail can clear obstacles which also means I need to eliminate the splash well in some way. I know they serve a purpose, but isn’t the point of higher sides and transoms for bigger waters? I’m just going to be on lakes and maybe rivers, no salt. Photos coming...
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,355
welcome aboard

first, no-one can post photos until you have about 4 posts under the belt. that is in the rules you agreed to

second, photos need to be under 700k, usually about 400k in size. that means any photo you have taken with a smart phone needs to be emailed to yourself and reduced to 25%

third, buy a used motor, dont cut your transom down. mud motors dont really care, and you can extend the shaft a bit if you really want

then again, its your boat
 

UGSC43

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May 6, 2020
Messages
10
Actually I have been studying the boat, I will be going a different route but I can’t remove the transom board because there is a inner plate in the way that cannot be simply removed unless a few other parts are un-riveted. I could start another thread directly related to the transom replacement, if that is permitted.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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49,038
Actually I have been studying the boat, I will be going a different route but I can’t remove the transom board because there is a inner plate in the way that cannot be simply removed unless a few other parts are un-riveted. I could start another thread directly related to the transom replacement, if that is permitted.

Speaking as a Moderator - I think this thread is all about your transom. Continue with this thread to make it easier on all of us.

Welcome aboard.
And hope the photo attachment issue is fixed soon. I think it needs it's transom repaired.
 

UGSC43

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
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I did end up modifying the transom, I made a cut to the inner transom plate to pull out the rotten wood, I’m confident I can put everything back together and not sacrifice any strength. I cut it in such a way that it allows for easier change out of the wood. It doesn’t seem to me to be designed for the whole plate to be removed as the gunnels block the whole piece from removal. I’ll try to post photos on my pc, I’m still having trouble with them even after reducing size under the size allotment.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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49,038
We're having trouble with the photo uploader. You can try to do a copy and paste of the pictures, it may work.
 

UGSC43

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
10
I’ve got plenty of photos for when I am able to upload them, I haven’t forgotten about them. But I was able to get all the foam out, and most of the removable parts so I could access all the crevasses. Then scrubbed it and pressure washed it.
 

UGSC43

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May 6, 2020
Messages
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I have a few questions...

1. I want to seal all the interior rivets and seams, can I get away with all purpose silicone or do I need to use something like 3M 5200 Marine sealant? (The boat will seldom be in the salt, mostly fresh water.)

2. I measured the transom board wood, it measured a hair under (less than a 32nd) 1-5/16” or close to 33mm, where do I obtain wood to replace it with or is there a synthetic option?

3. I want to spray the entire inside with aircraft primer, the parts that will not be seen once the boat is done, is there a good spray can brand?

4. Can I replace all the solid rivets I removed with closed end pop rivets? (Perhaps with the addition of sealant?)

5. I want to replace the plywood floor with those synthetic deck boards, to have a longer lasting deck, but also provide better drainage to and a great look. The boat is designed to have that plywood as part of the structure so the livewell and storage boxes mount to it and the gunwales to stiffen the boat. Provided I plane the boards to thickness does anyone think they’ll be strong enough. (The plywood deck mounts to ribs riveted to the bottom.)
 
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UGSC43

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
10
Anyone with answers to my questions on post #12? I’d rather not make any big potential mistakes. Also in regards to question 3, could I instead used galvanizing primer? Because I already have some. If not what about Rustoleum aluminum primer?
 
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