Towing in the outback

[george50]

I've done a lot of towing,on outback "roads" with various rigs and nothing holds together long. The worst thing is holding the outboard steady and out of the rocks.
Holding it up on the latches is not strong enough ( broke ) , on the hydrolic tilt worse ( ram unscrewed from top retainer and bent ) , trailer to leg stays ( fall off/bend
and allow engine movement causing all kinds of drama ) . Even if you can secure the boat so there is no movement at all on the trailer, the flexing alone makes those stays suspect. I'm considering a steel bracket locking between the transom clamps and the motor . Anyone with a better idea ???

 

[GA_Boater]

Look at a transom defloppenizer like one of these to hold the motor up in the air, which relieves pressure and inertia on transom and hydraulics. Straight or angled depending on how the boat sits on the trailer.

 

[Fed]

What motor?

 

[Sprig]

What kind of boat are you towing and what engine do you have? Also what brand and type of trailer? Finally what kind of roads/trails are you hauling it over?

 

[GA_Boater]

I don't think it makes a difference what motor, but it is a Tohatsu - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...san-outboards/10497524-tilt-trim-fluid-change

 

[Fed]

The difference is traditionally Mercs could sit on the hydraulics & powering down onto the tilt levers would bend them, OMC could sit powered down onto the tilt levers even to the point of retracting the trim rams & Yamahas couldn't sit on anything forcing people to buy extras to support them.
(Talking older motors here, not sure about the newer stuff)

Tohatsu I'm not sure about but if I can find out anything I'll be sure to post.

 

[Fed]

This is what Tohatsu say about the M40.

When trailering the outboard motor should be in a vertical (normal running) position, fully down. Trailering in the tilted position may cause damage to the outboard motor, boat, etc. If trailering with outboard motor fully down is not available (the gear case skeg is too close to the road in a vertical position), fix the outboard motor securely using a device (like a transom saver bar) in the tilted position.

George, I'd go with something between the clamp brackets & the motor & also strap the motor back down onto it.

I'm considering a steel bracket locking between the transom clamps and the motor .

I think you're on the right track.

 

[GA_Boater]

From George's description, he isn't talking about normal roads, but extreme like Ice Road trucking conditions.

Looking at his post again, saw "trailer to leg stays ( fall off/bend)", which seems to be a defloppenizer. I think the only fix is to slow down and be more gentle.

 

[Sprig]

Define outback roads. Sounds like you are rock crawling. Also sounds you are going places you probably tow a boat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

roads in the outback.......technically its a set of ruts that goes out in the bush. equal to fire trails thru the northwoods I would suspect.

sounds like the OP has already tried the deflopperizer. I agree with GA. slow down, avoid the rocks. if its hard on the motor, its also hard on the rest of the boat.

if that is not an option, a custom trailer, with long-travel suspension, air springs, shocks, and a dual heavy duty bracket for securing the motor (sort of a delopperizer on steroids)

one thing to try with the deflopperizer (leg stay) - use a ratchet strap to hold the lower unit tight against the bracket.

 

[george50]

Hi Guys , thanks for the ideas . My boat's an Alum. 4.1 Horizon Centre console with a 40hp. Tohatsu , Dunbier trailer.
I've been towing it to Kalumbaru ( Kimberley coast) and Cape York . Serious corrugations and potholes. I go 60kph on the GOOD sections. Sounds like I have to make a steel clamp between upper leg and transom bracket. I've tried the rest and eventually they all fail. The spring loaded defloppenizer was ok until the standard straps top and bottom broke , Might try stronger straps and open the bleed screw to "manual" to take the strain off the ram valves as there will still be some movement .

 

[Silvertip]

Having been in the outback, I can attest to the roughness of some of the "good" roads. The only suggestion I have is to slow down. Any contact point between the trailer and your boat is a potential point of damage. No matter how tight you secure the boat to the trailer, there will always be some movement. Tie-down stress coupled with road stress adds to the potential damage. 60 clicks is close to 40 mph which seems much too fast for even a good section of outback trail/road. You can create a long-travel suspension by replacing the leaf springs with properly sized coils, a set of trailing arms and a track bar. Add a set of adjustable shocks and you may have what you need (at a cost of course).

 

[Trevor H]

The simplest way to secure an out board in the upright position is to lift the engine and fix a block of soft wood and the bracket that should support the engine

This spreads the load across the transom , and protects the bracket which is usually not strong enough

If its possible to tow the boat with the engine in the down position
This puts the least strain on the bracket and the boats transom

 

[Scott Danforth]

The simplest way to secure an out board in the upright position is to lift the engine and fix a block of soft wood and the bracket that should support the engine

This spreads the load across the transom , and protects the bracket which is usually not strong enough

If its possible to tow the boat with the engine in the down position
This puts the least strain on the bracket and the boats transom

bad advice

the motor will bounce, the wood will go thru the window of the car behind you and then you have a busted window and a busted outboard

 

[bigdee]

I would strongly suggest shock absorbers on trailer suspension.....not too hard to fabricate brackets for 2 small (sub-compact car) shock absorbers