Tow Smart "Submersible" LED tail lights are junk... better solution?

ratdude747

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Sep 30, 2023
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This weekend my LED tail lights suffered a progressive failure.

Despite being marketed as submersible, unlike some LED tail lights I've seen (which despite that fact, also failed in a similar way on a car hauler), they didn't fully seal the light (has a drain hole) nor did they pot/conformally-coat the boards either. 5 ramp dippings and they're already not working with the boards all crusted up (either shorted from deposits or corroded through solder joints, the lights are to crappy for me to want to do a PCB level repair here)

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Suffice to say I'm not impressed. $40 down the hole. 🚽:poop:

So, who makes good actually-submersible LED lights? I am running dedicated ground wires (no chassis grounding).
 

roscoe

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I've been running Optronic LED on one trailer. And Fulton / WESBAR led on the other trailer. Both since 2012 or 2013.

A decent full set with wiring will cost you $100 or more.

My WESBAR came with a harness with a ground wire to each light.

The Optronics, I had to add the separate ground wires.
 

ratdude747

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I've been running Optronic LED on one trailer. And Fulton / WESBAR led on the other trailer. Both since 2012 or 2013.

A decent full set with wiring will cost you $100 or more.

My WESBAR came with a harness with a ground wire to each light.

The Optronics, I had to add the separate ground wires.
Wasn't planning on rewiring since the entire trailer electrical system was redone this spring; I used the wire that came with the tow smart lights, but ran separate ground wires and spliced a heavy-gauge 4 pin extension as my truck/tongue lead (chopped the crappy tow smart plug). All connections are heat shrink butt crimps.
 

roscoe

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Right here on iboats:

 

cyclops222

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Electronic PCB and parts ???????????????????? For a simple light to be lit ????????????????? No one can fix
ALL light fixtures MUST be SEALED against any water getting in.
The drain hole ?? :):):):):):):):)
Edit All my trailers still have sealed 12 volt light bulb and socket. No corrosion. Ever
 

Lou C

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American made & excellent
Tecniq lights
Installed in 2015 still working, salt water trailer
 
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Lou C

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Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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Peterson... I don't even unplug my trailer launching anymore. It's nice having a "runway" for those late night retrievals at ramps with no lights. I've had to replace the driver side one a few times but people keep hitting the trailer and cracking the housing which ultimately breaks the potting.... The other is like 15 years old now. I can only vouch for the rectangle units....
 
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cyclops222

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Do a web search of Tecniq. It is a importer of many Chinese companies products. It also has sites around the world.
 

Lou C

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That could be the ones I bought 9 years ago were made here.
 

dingbat

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Electronic PCB and parts ???????????????????? For a simple light to be lit ?????????????????
You have 12-18 LED running at less than 3 volts each, being feed a 12 volt supply.

You need to mount the individual LED and you need to reduce the voltage to each one.

A simple pcb solves both problems
 

ratdude747

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Right here on iboats:

What's the difference between that and this:


$70 vs $90 isn't much of a difference especially since the $70 includes a bunch of parts I already have and don't need. If the $90 lights are in fact better, then I'm not opposed to spending a bit more to get a much better light.
 

flyingscott

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Apr 8, 2014
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Electronic PCB and parts ???????????????????? For a simple light to be lit ????????????????? No one can fix
ALL light fixtures MUST be SEALED against any water getting in.
The drain hole ?? :):):):):):):):)
Edit All my trailers still have sealed 12 volt light bulb and socket. No corrosion. Ever
Laugh all you want. 2 yrs and no problems and $28. Brightest best lights I ever had
 

roscoe

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What's the difference between that and this:


$70 vs $90 isn't much of a difference especially since the $70 includes a bunch of parts I already have and don't need. If the $90 lights are in fact better, then I'm not opposed to spending a bit more to get a much better light.
The $90 ones are in a retail clam pack and have a separate ground wire. Don't know if the light is the same.
 

ratdude747

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The $90 ones are in a retail clam pack and have a separate ground wire. Don't know if the light is the same.
Separate ground wire is something I'd pay extra for. Did I mention I hate chassis grounds on trailers!
 

jimmbo

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May 24, 2004
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13,446
Best thing, is always Unplug the Lights from the Tow Vehicle, Regardless of where or not they are supposedly Sealed. A lot of the Wiring between the Lights and the Plug is not Sealed, is not longer Sealed.
Water(with the Exception of Distilled) and Electricity are indeed too Friendly and need to be Insulated/Isolated from each other.
Many a Tow Vehicle has departed from the Launch with No Running and/or Brake Lights having Launched/Loaded with Trailer Lights hooked up.
Hot components, be it Bulbs or LEDs will also face Thermal Shock when they get Wet when dunked
 

airshot

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Jul 22, 2008
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I have used LED light sets on my last two trailers from our local Farm and Fleet and Tractor Supply co. Took advantage of sales on each set. Common ground wire at each light and all connections fully soldered and sealed. No issues with first set, they are over 10 yrs old and the second set is over 3 years old with O issues. I am sure these are not top of the line but appear to be well made with sealed light units and they are "bright"....
 

cyclops222

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The key to forever life trailer lights. Is the separate Ground Wire And completely sealed light housings. My oldest trailer is a 1984. I back in with no cooling off of bearings or lights. Day or night lights on.
 

ratdude747

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Sep 30, 2023
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The key to forever life trailer lights. Is the separate Ground Wire And completely sealed light housings. My oldest trailer is a 1984. I back in with no cooling off of bearings or lights. Day or night lights on.
What I was thinking (although thermally LEDs aren't as bad as they are a lot more efficient!). The issue (shockingly) wasn't the lights shorting out when dunked and popping fuses in the truck... just them not working afterwards due to corrosion fouling solder joints/PCB traces or deposits partially shorting the LEDs.

Sounds like I need to shop around... and avoid tow smart!
 
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