Took out the LU shift pivot pin (Accident!!) and now I have a fluid leak. Any ideas?

[777funk]

I realize that I could have had a bigger problem on my hand, somehow the lever didn't fall off into the lower unit! Don't know I dodged that bullet! Maybe cold thick oil... who knows!

But I am still in trouble. The screw leaks fluid.

I'm upset with Force and any other Outboard Motor Company that doesn't label this screw or their drain plug. Really this screw should be under a cap of some sort to prevent it looking like a drain.

But too late now! Now how to fix the leak.

I thought of getting a rubber plug that's a tight fit and pounding it in there. I'm still thinking on how to solve the leak. Any ideas would be great! and thanks!!!

 

[SkiDad]

i believe there is a small o-ring there according to the manual. The old one probably broke up when you took it out. Or pieces are still in there. just my thoughts.

it might be this part: F498618

 

[Nordin]

Yes there should be a plastic "plainwasher" under the screw. Partnumber F498618 (seal).
Check the surface so it is clean and not ruff.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Take the drive off.
Do NOT drain the oil.
Put it in the freezer for about 2-4 days.
Then take it out and lay it on it's side.
Remove the screw and replace the o-ring that Nordin told you about.
Don't let it thaw while you work on it.

 

[777funk]

Take the drive off.
Do NOT drain the oil.
Put it in the freezer for about 2-4 days.
Then take it out and lay it on it's side.
Remove the screw and replace the o-ring that Nordin told you about.
Don't let it thaw while you work on it.

Sounds like the best plan of attack. Thank! I wonder about the size of the seal. I know the plugs use a washer looking seal.

 

[gm280]

Don't feel so bad, I think a few of us has done the same thing, but then found out that the oil drain holes are marked (at least on my engine) and if there is no oil drain marking, then don't remove it. Lesson learned and now you too can tell others on these forums when they ask about such a screw. With that said, if you carefully remove that screw and put the proper sealing washer on it and install it back, you shouldn't have any issue if you go slowly and carefully. And even if the pivot bracket does slide out a little, an awl or even a finishing nail can easily line it up again in lots of cases... JMHO!

 

[wickware]

My Vent/Fill screws are marked. I still added silicone over the pivot screw (to hide it) to not pull it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I've never seen one of the drain plugs marked.
Just the Fill/Vent screws.

Most just grab a screwdriver and start rippin into the lower.

I did this to the first Force I worked on.
Luckily it went right back in.
I told NOBODY!!!!

 

[Screaming kiwi]

As per JerryJerry05 - I did the same and was lucky.

 

[Radiodan]

My Force 125 (1987) leaks at that pivot screw. If the concern is a downward slide of the rod when screw it removed, would it be best to tilt the motor UP as far as possible to reduce the effect of gravity while I pull the screw and replace washer?

 

[puffitu]

Ever play the game operation? Pretty much what you gotta do to replace that o-ring; very carefully pull the pin screw out and put it in taking extra care not to nudge the leg. I achieved success pulling lower off and putting it in a vice between two pieces of wood, wife’s yoga video, shot of tequila and off I went with the surgical skill of a Polish engineer

 

[Radiodan]

Tnx for the reply Puffitu. I checked the motor ID plate and it's a 1986. It seems I was able to loosen the pin and work it in and out a turn or so fluid leaked out and very possibly washed whatever might have got in the way of a good seal and now it has not shown any leaking in half a day. However, I did discover the pin has an "out of round" feel (more and less resistance as I moved it) when I unscrewed and screwed it in that turn or so. I suspect the gearshift was possibly slammed into gear with engine not turning and somebody forced it? It is noticeable but I think I can adjust the shift cable to allow proper neutral as it is very close now. When I take the shift cable off, I am able to put it easily into fwd or rev while moving the prop by hand with a good amount of travel for what I call "proper" neutral. I hope I described well enough. Any comment?