tohatsu 9.8 corrosion on vertical shaft

Status
Not open for further replies.

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
To remove tube and clean vs remove tube and replace will be time shorter, if already falling apart replace, take advantage to change both steering shaft bushings if already with excessive axial play when moving engine back and forth, check friction plate cond as well.

Happy Boating
 

pvanv

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
6,559
Received the seloc manual...TOTALLY WORTHLESS.
Yep. Get the correct manual from Tohatsu... covers all 1 and 2 cylinder models (it has been condensed for the old obsolete 2 strokes), but all the original info is in there.
 

J_Grove

Cadet
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Messages
12
hi, I know this is an old thread but it describes my situation pretty much exactly, except that I can work on the motor in my garage.

I have a 2003 Tohatsu M9.8 that came on a boat I got last summer and I'd really like to keep going. It runs well and I replaced the water pump right after I got it. Unfortunately I just discovered that the steering shaft is very rusted and corroded. The motor provides aux power for my sailboat, a 27 ft trimaran and the corrosion is bad enough that I'm concerned about continuing to use it before I replace this shaft.

It looks like if ordering the part (3B2Q620100) you don't just get the shaft, you get the yoke (is that right word?) as well, in a single relatively large assembly. Unfortunately Tohatsu USA no longer carries the part. I found a marine store in Japan on e-bay that sells the part new for $200 shipped. Ouch! But I want to keep the engine bad enough that I am considering it.

What is involved in just replacing the shaft? How is the shaft connected to the yoke? If threaded, can I get a 1/2" galvanized pipe, have a machine shop thread the end and drill the holes, and just replace the shaft? Is it going to be a nasty job trying to get the old one out? Doesn't seem like it should be that easy, otherwise why does the part come as a single assembly?

Regardless of whether I find and buy the complete assembly, or just try to fabricate a new shaft, what is best way to get it apart? Sounds like from this thread you can come at it from the top (remove engine head) or the bottom (lower unit), and that coming at it from the bottom would be the easier way. I have some experience with that since I did the water pump a few months ago. So I have some basic mechanical ability but the water pump job took me a few hours so I'm definitely a novice.

Any advice or recommendations appreciated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top