just fixed my notifications, wasnt getting any.
Paul
I did see that the shifter is outside this shaft but there is another rod inside that looks to go all the way from top to bottom.
Ultimately here is my issue. I'll be living on the boat on a mooring for the next 2 months and need the dink to get ashore with the engine. I dont want to get in over my head and have to row!!
Can I hang the engine on its mounts on the inside of my stern rail to do the repair on the back deck of my boat?
I have a fairly complete set of standard tools. Will I need anything special?
Dropping the Lower Unit sounds serious, never done that. Complicated?
Where can I get a service repair manual for this engine? Here on i-boats?
Thanks
In the field, it's considerably simpler and easier to drop the LU and release the lower mount than it is to pull the power head, lower cowl, upper mounts, exhaust housing, etc... In the shop, we might go at it from the top, but we have good gasket scrapers, lots of sundry spare parts, etc., which are required when pulling the power head.
Once the LU is off (4 bolts and the shift rod coupler)(the drive shaft will come down with the LU, but the water pipe will stay with the upper section), then after releasing the lower motor mount (and any associated ground wires, etc.), you can flex the upper mounts, and pull the entire motor off of the bracket, complete with tiller handle, exhaust housing, steering shaft, etc... leaving the steering shaft bracket and transom clamps behind. Since the steering shaft is recalcitrant, it will likely take some patience and wiggling, and maybe some levering.
While you have the LU down, if the water pump hasn't been serviced in a few years, it would be a good time to install a new WP kit (not just the impeller).
It would be a lot easier to work on a motor stand ashore, but in a pinch, you could use a kicker pad to hold the bracket. Beware dropping parts or tools overboard. You will need standard metric tools, especially a 10 mm box wrench for the LU bolts, and a decent set of 3/8-drive metric sockets. You will also need a punch to drive out the 3 mm ss roll pin that connects the brass shifter connector to the shift and cam rods. If you motor ashore in the morning, you should be able to complete repairs during the day, and then motor back to the boat for a celebratory supper aboard.
I recommend that you get a Factory service manual, as opposed to the way-too-general aftermarket manuals that are available from non-Tohatsu dealers on the Internet, but, since you already have one on order, see if it helps. Study the setup for a while, have tools on hand, and toss your fears aside. It will take a novice a lot longer than an experienced technician, but it isn't rocket science. One benefit of being ashore is that if you get stuck, you may be able to get help from someone else ashore; If you are isolated on the mooring, help will be harder to come by.
