Time for my first bellow change, tips?

nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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Time after time I've tried using the Sierra exhaust bellows on my Alpha Gen1 and could never get it on, and if I did, it would pop off so I would put a tube on. This year I bought a complete OEM set and the exhaust bellows went right on and has been on all season with no issues. Coincidence? Not sure, but I wont buy a Sierra one again.
Fair point, I have a tube on mine so didn't try.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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And having the correct tools is a must!
Engineers could have left a little more room in there for maintenance I would think..
And I was using a cheap poorly made bellows expander too.

All in all wasn.t that bad, especially considering the originals were 18 years old. I doubt I will still have this boat in 18 more years
 

MEDEL514

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Jan 14, 2024
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You can use the core of the old shift cable w end cut off or weed wacker wire to help route the new cable. Routing the new outer cable can be a pain if you have a V engine.
I wanted to verify that there isn't supposed to be a rubber grommet or fitting around the cable going through the transom. I removed my cable and there was nothing. I was expecting a rubber grommet or fitting like the one that's on the sender wires, but it appears my shifting cable just freely slides in and out of the transom. Is this correct?
 

nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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I wanted to verify that there isn't supposed to be a rubber grommet or fitting around the cable going through the transom. I removed my cable and there was nothing. I was expecting a rubber grommet or fitting like the one that's on the sender wires, but it appears my shifting cable just freely slides in and out of the transom. Is this correct?
The boot is the only seal entering the transom
 

Scott06

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I wanted to verify that there isn't supposed to be a rubber grommet or fitting around the cable going through the transom. I removed my cable and there was nothing. I was expecting a rubber grommet or fitting like the one that's on the sender wires, but it appears my shifting cable just freely slides in and out of the transom. Is this correct?
It does freely slide out of the transom. I think there may be a plastic clip in there. I think there was one in my transom kit that I didn't bother replacing cause its hard to get to. either way cable slides out when you pull the bellhousing off.
 

nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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It does freely slide out of the transom. I think there may be a plastic clip in there. I think there was one in my transom kit that I didn't bother replacing cause its hard to get to. either way cable slides out when you pull the bellhousing off.
You pull the bell housing to change the cable?
 

Scott06

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You pull the bell housing to change the cable?
I did it with complete bellows job. on last two boats this was the only time I had to get in there. My last boat I think was on original shift cable. Sold it the year in my mind I was gonna do bellows... This boat made it 18 years before needing bellows (exhaust had split but shift and driveshaft were still good) and still shifts like a dream so I pulled cable with bellhousing and reinstalled it. This is why I am so pro OEM parts in my use they last forever.

I got Sierra senders and the trim sender was never able to get to work so I am done with Sierra. Could be a fluke but the parts aren't breaking the bank
 
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Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
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12,693
Agreed for parts that will cause a big problem if they fail or are difficult to replace go OEM if you can.
I found the bellows job on my Cobra very easy. Very much like a Volvo SX. I do pull the pivot housing but I disco the shift cable up on the engine so the pivot can come back without having to re-do the transom shift adjustment at the bellcrank down in the pivot housing.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 5, 2011
Messages
738
Thanks for the feedback guys, I will be getting the Quicksilver brand, which I was told was OEM by the boat shop.

Second question, I plan on cleaning off the corrosion on the transom. WHat kind of black paint should I use to repaint the assembly?
Quicksilver is a subsidiary of Mercury Marine created to handle international parts supplying as there are certain restrictions on what and how they can sell their parts internationally.
 

Pmt133

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Jan 6, 2022
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I seem to only get about 6-7 years out of the sierra bellows. The failure was sudden and catastrophic when it did too. No signs of dry-rot but the thing shredded on the top side... Kind of like it got stabbed with a knife, not the normal dry rot tear where it's stressed when stored and rips along the crease. Dropped the boat in the water for a weekend. Checked the bilge Friday night it was bone dry, came back Saturday morning to water at deck level then found that tear. The prior set was OE and dad can't remember if he did it when he bought the boat or not... so they either lasted ~18 years or ~26 years.

FYI, when selecting the transom kit I'll use during my restoration, the sierra kit was ~$170 at the time with the gimbal bearing... the merc was ~$279 for the same kit... I picked the merc and hope I get the same ~2x the life from them.

I use the exhaust tube instead of the bellow, it's easier and isn't really much louder. Some boats you may get some more exhaust smell around the transom I've heard said. I like the bubbling sound at idle lol.
 

Scott06

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Quicksilver is a subsidiary of Mercury Marine created to handle international parts supplying as there are certain restrictions on what and how they can sell their parts internationally.
It’s not for international parts but so they can sell parts outside of merc dealer network. For example you can buy quicksilver hi perf gear lube at Walmart In the US
 

boattoy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 21, 2010
Messages
116
Buy oem and don’t use the exhaust bellows. Trust me once you finish the job and realize how hard it is , you’ll be glad you bought expensive parts . Run the updated exhaust tube that slips in and out when drive goes up and down. I fought that damn exhaust bellows for hours for it to just fall off first trip on my alpha 1 .
 

MEDEL514

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Jan 14, 2024
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Buy oem and don’t use the exhaust bellows. Trust me once you finish the job and realize how hard it is , you’ll be glad you bought expensive parts . Run the updated exhaust tube that slips in and out when drive goes up and down. I fought that damn exhaust bellows for hours for it to just fall off first trip on my alpha 1 .
That stinks! I bought the quick silver kit with the exhaust bellows. I did buy the bellows installation tool too, so hopefully I can get it to stay on there! otherwise, I guess I'll get the tune later.
 

MEDEL514

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I need some help identifying this part I broke. 🤦‍♂️. Its a plastic fitting for the oil line it broke when I was taking off the hose, the other half of the nipple is stuck in the old oil line. Please tell me this is easily replaceable! 🙏

1000011768.jpg
 

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tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
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Apr 4, 2013
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My shift cable bellows is torn, so I am going to do a full service of the transom, all bellows and gimbal bearing. While looking at kits, I noticed the Quicksilver kit is very expencive ($313) compared to others that are around $100 for the kit. What are the preferred parts brands that you guys prefer to stick with?

Also, what kind of paint should I use to repaint the transom after I remove the corrosion?
have a friend and a block of wood near the height of the skag. It will help with the OD weight.
 

Scott06

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I need some help identifying this part I broke. 🤦‍♂️. Its a plastic fitting for the oil line it broke when I was taking off the hose, the other half of the nipple is stuck in the old oil line. Please tell me this is easily replaceable! 🙏

View attachment 399795
Parts are on this breakdown drawing https://www.marineengine.com/parts/...8-and-up/0l100040-up/oil-reservoir-components

Looks like there is an E clip on the inside of transom housing should pull through the stern .

give the exhaust bellows a try I may have gotten lucky but really had very little issue getting them on.
 

Jmunk

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 31, 2007
Messages
283
That’s #1, you need to remove the e-clip from inside and then push/pull the fitting out. The hardest part is bilge access depending on your engine and layout. May want to get a few extra e-clips for re-installation in the event you send one flying. Some people tie some thread or fishing line to the clip to prevent losing it on installation.
 

MEDEL514

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Jan 14, 2024
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That’s #1, you need to remove the e-clip from inside and then push/pull the fitting out. The hardest part is bilge access depending on your engine and layout. May want to get a few extra e-clips for re-installation in the event you send one flying. Some people tie some thread or fishing line to the clip to prevent losing it on installation.
Ugh, that's what I figured. I have a V6, there's like no room in there for a human lol
 

Jmunk

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Jan 31, 2007
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283
May have to consider pulling off an exhaust manifold if you need the extra room.
 
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