tilt wires getting hot during lift?

[dwco5051]

found out the reason why my wires were getting hot on lift. however i have cut the wires to be ready to install the butt connectors. the sterndrive was to the left. it should be straight when tilting up. lol...... (headsmack)

I had a 1968 with the stringer drive and never knew about that. Never used it that much and it still is in the back of one of my garages. If I ever decide to use it again I will keep that in mind.

 

[froggy1150]

Your tilt motor has 3 electrical points.
12v+ blue = Up (sky)
12v+ green = down (grass)
12v Negative - gets this from mounting points. Why yours has a separate ground wire for the chassis might have to do with the gasket between tilt motor and Intermediate housing. I don't have that issue with mine. When you want drive up the blue wire gets power and green does nothing. When you want the drive down the green gets power and the blue does nothing.
There is also a overload inside the motor that kicks out if it sees a "locked rotor" (motor not spinning) and current spikes. I had to clean my contacts up but this is not meant to serviced. There is a little plastic thrust washer next to the hammer blow coupling that if missing will cause things to bind. I had to completely disassemble the whole motor/gear assembly to get to work right

 

[1975oday22]

Your tilt motor has 3 electrical points.
12v+ blue = Up (sky)
12v+ green = down (grass)
12v Negative - gets this from mounting points. Why yours has a separate ground wire for the chassis might have to do with the gasket between tilt motor and Intermediate housing. I don't have that issue with mine. When you want drive up the blue wire gets power and green does nothing. When you want the drive down the green gets power and the blue does nothing.
There is also a overload inside the motor that kicks out if it sees a "locked rotor" (motor not spinning) and current spikes. I had to clean my contacts up but this is not meant to serviced. There is a little plastic thrust washer next to the hammer blow coupling that if missing will cause things to bind. I had to completely disassemble the whole motor/gear assembly to get to work right

yep. i know. aint a complete newbie here. i have done my research before posting here on most subjects. i already had to replace the trim motor on engine side. and other wiring that was never fused .... upgraded to a bayliner dash , ect. had a few campers that i had to rewire and add distribution panels as well, so ya im not a newbie and do know alot about this stuff. the things i dont know , i post. as for the neg, i will leave it there. just got to get butt connectors and im done with this wiring nightmare. i have been through the whole engine wiring and this is the only wires that were shoddy when i got it. again thank you ......