Throttle Cable Conundrum

[scatgo]

At my carb there is the black plastic end of the throttle cable. There is a brass tube that goes into the plastic part. The brass tube has about a 1/4 inch of in and out play into and out of the plastic part. Is that normal? Or is the metal tube supposed to be mounted solid to the plastic part?

 

[kenny nunez]

The 1/4” is normal. The premium cables have less of the slack.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,...... 'n to adjust it, ya put the controller in neutral, the turn the barrel, til when you slip the hole onto the carb lever, there's abit of tension pushing on the idle adjustment screw,.....

The bit of slop is irrelevant,.....

 

[scatgo]

Right now iam trying to figure out why Iam not getting WOT after putting a new carb on. With the engine off and looking down the barrels of the carb i can see that the butterfly valves are just open a hair. They have way more to go. I get only get3000 RPMs with the throttle pushed full forward.

 

[scatgo]

Just got back to this situation. Any rebuild parts out there for the old style shifter? New ones are way above my budget. And I will need to know about getting the right cables. Any info out there about the difference between the cables used?

 

[bbook83]

Check out IslandExplorer’s post last Monday. Get the cable parts number with the parts lookup referenced by AllDodge, which should be available with Sierra cross reference. Your control is available on eBay.

 

[scatgo]

thanks

 

[kenny nunez]

That controller never wears out. The only thing to be careful of is keeping the shift handle tight on the splines. Just carefully open it up, remove all the old grease and re grease it with good quality lubricant.

 

[scatgo]

Thanks. The handle is the problem. Was not sure how to get it apart. Looked high and low for a diagram with no luck. Ill give it a shot.

 

[kenny nunez]

If the splines on the control and handle are worn and loose this is what I have done. With the black push button removed there is enough room to drill the tap size for a #8/32 allen set screw between the shaft and handle splines in 2 places about 45* apart.
If the handle is corroded on the shaft it is best to leave alone. If you break that handle good luck finding another one. You can still split the control to service it.

 

[scatgo]

Can't get the cover off to work on everything thing else. 4 screws out and can't get the cover up over the shifter. Can't see a way to get the shifter off.

 

[scatgo]

Nevermind. I found the set screw at the bottom.

 

[scatgo]

Check this out. Got the damm thnig apart and I cant see why the throttle only starts to move with the shifter pushed at least half way forward. Is it just me? when dose your throttle star to kick in?

 

[kenny nunez]

The shift cable has to move 1.5” For full engagement in either direction before the throttle starts to open.

 

[scatgo]

The shift cable has to move 1.5” For full engagement in either direction before the throttle starts to open.

OK. Thanks. Thats Good to know. Right now I am in gear way before the throttle starts to open and I dont even come close to full throttle.

 

[kenny nunez]

Are you sure that the throttle cable was attached to the correct hole on the carburetor throttle lever? I have seen that before.

 

[scatgo]

Yes. The new carb came with a long linkage. Stock was on the carb. I held it up side by side to the old one and the linkage is the same with only one hole to put the cable.

 

[scatgo]

When I opened the shift control I can see there are two options on the cam bearing. Just switched to the other hole and it looks like it will make a big difference.

 

[kenny nunez]

Good catch. Did that control come from a different boat? As you can see that control is well built and does not wear out. After you clean and re grease the moving parts it will be as good as new.

 

[scatgo]

Should be original to the boat. Definitely a solid unit. Can you give it gas in reverse? Looks to me like that might not be a option. Sounds strange but looks that way from the controller.