This is one reason you lower the out drive...

[peters715]

I am an idiot, just in case there was any doubt.

I tried starting the motor without lowering the drive. Water was hooked up, got distracted for several minutes, jumped in and started cranking.

If there exists a worse sound I surely never want to hear it.

On this particular unit, the collar that houses the bearing and the bellies attaches to, resembles a large castle nut. Or, it did. Most of those pieces either sheered off, bent or otherwise damaged to the point of whatever purpose they serve, they are no longer available for.

Yes, the yoke on the shaft was damaged and the U Joint was destroyed.

Before I go about fixing this, my question regards the viability of being able to securely fasten the bellows onto this collar now. The bellows did not get glued and clamped to this portion of the collar, but I'm not convinced this part did not play a role in securing or maintaining some function for the bellows.

In summary, I am an idiot and will I be able to properly secure the bellow to the remaining portion of the collar?

 

[Bondo]

In summary, I am an idiot and will I be able to properly secure the bellow to the remaining portion of the collar?

Ayuh,..... That depends on how badly all the bits, 'n pieces got mangled,.....

Got any pictures,..??

 

[peters715]

Ayuh,..... That depends on how badly all the bits, 'n pieces got mangled,.....

Got any pictures,..??

I can get a pic when the sun comes up. But in the meanwhile I will say they are all gone. The ones that remained were so badly damaged or barely hanging on I removed them.

 

[Scott06]

I am an idiot, just in case there was any doubt.

I tried starting the motor without lowering the drive. Water was hooked up, got distracted for several minutes, jumped in and started cranking.

If there exists a worse sound I surely never want to hear it.

On this particular unit, the collar that houses the bearing and the bellies attaches to, resembles a large castle nut. Or, it did. Most of those pieces either sheered off, bent or otherwise damaged to the point of whatever purpose they serve, they are no longer available for.

Yes, the yoke on the shaft was damaged and the U Joint was destroyed.

Before I go about fixing this, my question regards the viability of being able to securely fasten the bellows onto this collar now. The bellows did not get glued and clamped to this portion of the collar, but I'm not convinced this part did not play a role in securing or maintaining some function for the bellows.

In summary, I am an idiot and will I be able to properly secure the bellow to the remaining portion of the collar?

The retaining ring ( castled nut) may have just have the teeth knocked off it and still be holding the bearings in just fine. May be no need to knock it out if it is not cracked.

As Bondo said pictures would help.

There may be more going on here than just having the outdrive up. Where I have keep boats for years (40) we are in a very shallow cove where we have to have the outdrive if not all the way up very close to it every time we go in and out of the cove, never had any damage. Yes if you end up at a fast idle may make some knocking but never any damage. Were there signs of water intrusion? Is this on a gen 2 where the ujoints are permalube, lube for a short life? The greaseable u joints on my old gen 1 lasted 23 years being run all the way out, newer gen 2 last half as long was getting a shutter when trimming in under load

 

[peters715]

Well looking at it in the light of day, and after denying the damage the past several months, it looks grim.

Here's some pics I just took. Clearer is always better and I can try if necessary. ##$&()&*#!

So assuming worst case scenario, what are my options? Entire used Alpha 1 Gen 1 unit? Any aftermarket options? Scrap the whole thing?

 

[flashback]

interesting gimbal bearing, mine doesn't look like that.

 

[Lou C]

I have had to run my drive almost all the way up when leaving/returning at low tide and while you might hear a bit of noise, I have never had that happen and my u joints are original. Something else went wrong there. I don't see a lot of corrosion either. What did the driveshaft/u joints look like?
I think you need to replace the gimble housing for sure. About 80% of the flange is gone. No way a bellows is sealing on that. I wonder if you can do it without pulling the engine. Engine must be supported securely, but even so I don't think you can get at the inner studs/nuts to install the new one. So, might be a big job.
One of many reasons why some people won't have an I/O.

 

[Scott06]

Well looking at it in the light of day, and after denying the damage the past several months, it looks grim.

Here's some pics I just took. Clearer is always better and I can try if necessary. ##$&()&*#!

So assuming worst case scenario, what are my options? Entire used Alpha 1 Gen 1 unit? Any aftermarket options? Scrap the whole thing?

View attachment 397147View attachment 397148View attachment 397149

Not sure the condition of rest of boat especially transom and stringers given the year.

You can find good used freshwater transom/gimbal housings on ebay

Mercruiser Alpha One Gen One GIMBAL Housing Transom Assy | eBay

Used transom assy. Sold AS IS.

www.ebay.com

you will have to pull the engine, which if you are mechanically inclined sounds way worse than it is in a typical lake boat.

Something beyond just running it full up happened like u joint locked up

 

[bruceb58]

Was the drive shaft intact before/after this incident? Almost makes me wonder if there was a u-joint that was sloppy. What RPM were you running the motor at and for how long?

 

[kenny nunez]

This is a 60s style gimbal housing. If you look at the raised 2 areas that the boot seats against I have in the past taken a die grinder and removed them. This will provide enough room so that the boot will be able to be clamped in place. Not the best way but compared to replacing the gimbal housing it is worth a shot. Also be sure to really clean the area of all old glue. I would not use glue in case. Replace the universal joints, check the alignement. You should be able to get another season out of it.

 

[peters715]

This is a 60s style gimbal housing. If you look at the raised 2 areas that the boot seats against I have in the past taken a die grinder and removed them. This will provide enough room so that the boot will be able to be clamped in place. Not the best way but compared to replacing the gimbal housing it is worth a shot. Also be sure to really clean the area of all old glue. I would not use glue in case. Replace the universal joints, check the alignement. You should be able to get another season out of it.

No glue? Is this to ensure the boot gets slid on further?

 

[peters715]

Was the drive shaft intact before/after this incident? Almost makes me wonder if there was a u-joint that was sloppy. What RPM were you running the motor at and for how long?

Everything was in fine working order. The drive was all the way up. The u-joint and yoke on the drive shaft are being replaced.

 

[peters715]

Not sure the condition of rest of boat especially transom and stringers given the year.

You can find good used freshwater transom/gimbal housings on ebay

Mercruiser Alpha One Gen One GIMBAL Housing Transom Assy | eBay

Used transom assy. Sold AS IS.

www.ebay.com

you will have to pull the engine, which if you are mechanically inclined sounds way worse than it is in a typical lake boat.

Something beyond just running it full up happened like u joint locked up

It's 18' Starcraft Starchief, aluminum hull. Pulling the motor is isn't a big deal, been there done that.

 

[kenny nunez]

Whenever you switch to an Alpha you will also need the flywheel housing and of course cutting the transom along with drilling 2 new holes. Also make sure the transom is 2”. I have seen some early 60s models that had 1.5” transoms.
I never used the bellows cement, if the bellows is on right you do not need it.

 

[peters715]

Whenever you switch to an Alpha you will also need the flywheel housing and of course cutting the transom along with drilling 2 new holes. Also make sure the transom is 2”. I have seen some early 60s models that had 1.5” transoms.
I never used the bellows cement, if the bellows is on right you do not need it.

Thank you for the advice. Greatly appreciated.

 

[tank1949]

I am an idiot, just in case there was any doubt.

I tried starting the motor without lowering the drive. Water was hooked up, got distracted for several minutes, jumped in and started cranking.

If there exists a worse sound I surely never want to hear it.

On this particular unit, the collar that houses the bearing and the bellies attaches to, resembles a large castle nut. Or, it did. Most of those pieces either sheered off, bent or otherwise damaged to the point of whatever purpose they serve, they are no longer available for.

Yes, the yoke on the shaft was damaged and the U Joint was destroyed.

Before I go about fixing this, my question regards the viability of being able to securely fasten the bellows onto this collar now. The bellows did not get glued and clamped to this portion of the collar, but I'm not convinced this part did not play a role in securing or maintaining some function for the bellows.

In summary, I am an idiot and will I be able to properly secure the bellow to the remaining portion of the collar?

Most have trim electrical restrictors prohibiting cranking if OD is up past a certain point. Make sure those are fixed and working 100%.

 

[Simoniz]

Most have trim electrical restrictors prohibiting cranking if OD is up past a certain point. Make sure those are fixed and working 100%.

Failing that, whenever you crank your drive up to the trailer position remove the ignition key and hang it on the throttle lever.

 

[dubs283]

Most have trim electrical restrictors prohibiting cranking if OD is up past a certain point.

This is not true

Some newer smartcraft equipped engines will sound an audible alarm and set a fault code but will not prevent the engine from turning over/starting if the drive is tilted up

 

[tank1949]

This is not true

Some newer smartcraft equipped engines will sound an audible alarm and set a fault code but will not prevent the engine from turning over/starting if the drive is tilted up

i'LL TAKE THE OLD WAY

 

[Lou C]

When I have a shallow mooring spot and have to keep the drive up, my habit has been to tap the trim down about 6 secs to lower it about 1/2 down.
Here's a tip for old tech guys with old tech boats:
Time how long it takes your drive to go from full up to full down. Mine takes 12 Mississippis lol. So I count down 6 Mississippis and I'm half way down and that's fine for the U joints and won't hit bottom at that point the boat only draws about 2" of water.