This is going to be a long on....

deadadrift

Recruit
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
Messages
4
As stated in title this is going to be a little bit of a long post so turn away now if you are of the faint of heart. Let me give you a little back ground on me. I am a newbe when it comes to owning a boat but I know a little about motors. Thats the just of it anyway.

Now to the story. got a bout from my uncle and it ran like a top for 3 days then I got stranded for about 6 hours on the water because the motor would not fire, and the wind was blowing so hard the trolling moter would not make progress. I could not remember how to wire the trolling motor to get move thrust or i could have made it back. (I have that part figured out now) and had to call a friend to tow me home. Now after research for the last 30 hrs. I have found that it is most likly the key/kill switch. So my question is this. I think there is a way to disconet the control box at the motor and start the motor with the buttom on the outboard. But i need for someone to explain and maybe some pics of what to do exactlly to make this work. After research I think I know were the kill switch is in the motor and reason would sugest to discont that connector. but want to make sure and to know what else need to be removed. This is for me in an emergency if this every happens in the future.

It is an early 80' 30 hp evinrude from what i could find on the netnot sure aboutthe control box. I will get some pics up when I get it back from the boat doctor.

well it was longer in my head.

also is there a sticky or some place i can find to show me how to take the control box apart so if this happens again I can replace it myself since it is a 25 doller part.

Thank you for any help you can provide.

Now you know why I picked that screen name.:)
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: This is going to be a long on....

Let's start with a model number so we know what we are working on. OK, after that, exactly what do you mean by won't fire? Are you saying the starter cranks it over, but it doesn't catch and run? Have you checked for spark? Just assuming it is the kill switch is foolish. You need to do some preliminary troubleshooting to isolate the problem. Will help when we get that model number and more info.
 

deadadrift

Recruit
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
Messages
4
Re: This is going to be a long on....

Let's start with a model number so we know what we are working on. OK, after that, exactly what do you mean by won't fire? Are you saying the starter cranks it over, but it doesn't catch and run? Have you checked for spark? Just assuming it is the kill switch is foolish. You need to do some preliminary troubleshooting to isolate the problem. Will help when we get that model number and more info.

OK lets try again. I do not have model number as it is at the boat doctor. I will getwhen i get it back. it it was something like "30telxxx"

It was not getting spark. would turn over and flood the spark plugs. I checked. So I dont have full model number. might swing by there today. and get it. All grounds and other wire were clean and tight. I did have to wiggle the shifter to get it to even do that. it would make a little whistle when i turn the key. then i got it where it need to be and it would turn over. If I push the start button on the motor it would turn over ever time. again no spark.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: This is going to be a long on....

No spark.... usually a failed powerpack, shorted ignition switch, or shorted kill/stop push button.

If shorted igniiton switch or kill/stop button.... disconnect black/yellow wire from powerpack (Kill circuit).

If failed powerpack.... replace powerpack.

THere are of course other causes but the above are the most common.
 

deadadrift

Recruit
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
Messages
4
Re: This is going to be a long on....

No spark.... usually a failed powerpack, shorted ignition switch, or shorted kill/stop push button.

If shorted igniiton switch or kill/stop button.... disconnect black/yellow wire from powerpack (Kill circuit).

If failed powerpack.... replace powerpack.

THere are of course other causes but the above are the most common.

Thats what I thought. I did not know were the yellow and black wire was. I did not see a yellow and black while looking, but now i know it goes to power pack i will check there when I get it back. going left to right on the power pack do you know what atation it is located. ie. staion one two three ans so on. If I would have known all this I might not have got standed on the water.

Thanks for the quick reply
 

likitvi

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 7, 2011
Messages
138
Re: This is going to be a long on....

If this is a similar model as my E35ECSM ... I installed a connector for similar purpose in the yellow/black wire originating from the 3-prong connector between power pack and coils. Disconnecting that means the kill circuit is certainly not active unless the short wire from the power pack to the connector is somehow worn and grounded.

To start, the key switch disconnects the yellow/black and black in "ON" position, in "OFF" position they are connected grounding the power pack. Then in "START" position red +12V and solenoid wire, cannot remember color right now, are connected to engage solenoid. +12V is connected into the red wire from the solenoid main post through a fuse. With key switch in "START" this is then connected back to solenoid coil side, grounded into engine, to engage the main connection to starter.

If your wiring harness is good, I had problems in mine and had to cut the kill wire first, you can just disconnect the wiring harness connector at the engine. This disconnects the grounded kill line first. Now, to engage start you can connect the battery terminal in the connector with the one going to the solenoid with a preferably long jumper cable. Your jumper cable should include some resistance to not blow the fuse in the circuit. But... Do NOT guess which are the correct terminals in the connector, connecting +12V to the kill wire will kill the power pack, and directly to ground wire you will likely blow the fuse.

Alternatively you can jump the starter directly with start cables and the wiring harness disconnected. That should result in nothing more than a few showy sparks when making the connection and hopefully a running engine.
 

deadadrift

Recruit
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
Messages
4
Re: This is going to be a long on....

If this is a similar model as my E35ECSM ... I installed a connector for similar purpose in the yellow/black wire originating from the 3-prong connector between power pack and coils. Disconnecting that means the kill circuit is certainly not active unless the short wire from the power pack to the connector is somehow worn and grounded.

To start, the key switch disconnects the yellow/black and black in "ON" position, in "OFF" position they are connected grounding the power pack. Then in "START" position red +12V and solenoid wire, cannot remember color right now, are connected to engage solenoid. +12V is connected into the red wire from the solenoid main post through a fuse. With key switch in "START" this is then connected back to solenoid coil side, grounded into engine, to engage the main connection to starter.

If your wiring harness is good, I had problems in mine and had to cut the kill wire first, you can just disconnect the wiring harness connector at the engine. This disconnects the grounded kill line first. Now, to engage start you can connect the battery terminal in the connector with the one going to the solenoid with a preferably long jumper cable. Your jumper cable should include some resistance to not blow the fuse in the circuit. But... Do NOT guess which are the correct terminals in the connector, connecting +12V to the kill wire will kill the power pack, and directly to ground wire you will likely blow the fuse.

Alternatively you can jump the starter directly with start cables and the wiring harness disconnected. That should result in nothing more than a few showy sparks when making the connection and hopefully a running engine.

Thanks a million. that is what I was looking for. I not sure I have it all yet as the motor is not here for me to look at. But if I disconect that wire. and the wire to the console. then take my jumper wire from battiery to starter I should be able to start motor from the start button on the motor. correct.? i will get pics to verify everything when boat comes back.
 
Top