The 'glassing begins...

[JasonJ]

It was a great day, temps in the 70s. I got done with work early, and started glassing in the transom. I went ahead and whipped up a batch of resin and grabbed my precut transom wood and fiberglass mat. I wetted out a layer of mat on the hull, layed in a 5/8th piece of ply for the transom, layed in another layer of wetted out mat, and layed in the second layer of ply, 3/4 inch this time. I ran bolts with large washers through all thru-hull holes, clamped the edges, and braced the bottom areas of the transom wood with 2x4s. Finally, screwed the two layers of wood and mat together with stainless screws. Let it kick out, trimmed the mat that was sticking out around the edges, and thats that. Next step is to finish it by encasing the whole mess in glass, but I will whip up some thickened resin and force it in under all the edges and radius it out so there isn't sharp corners. I'll post pics after it is all glassed in.

 

[NathanY]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

Sounds like you are on top of it. Keep us posted!

 

[DDJ]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

GO Jason GO I"ve been waiting for it to warm up for you to get started. I want to see this thing come together. I enjoy seeing things that take time and talent that people do for the enjoyment and satifaction of just doing it. GOOD LUCK and post the pic's already.

 

[scootyfish]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

Thank God for good weather, huh Jason. I've got a few questions: <br />- If I do the same thing to my tri-hull, how much fiberglass do I need and what type?<br />- How many screws did you use to secure the transom and how did you space them?<br />- The thru hull holes you ran bolts thru are for use as drains later?<br />- What type of resin did you use.<br /> Thanx Buddy.

 

[JasonJ]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

Scooty, I have 30 yards of mat, and 8 gallons of polyester resin (enough to do the job and have extra for mess-ups). You can either use poly or epoxy. Epoxy is easier to use, and is generally stronger, but poly can do just fine as long as you use it right. Poly is more temperature sensative, and is more sensative to catalyst ratio (easy to mess that up). You have to make sure the area is roughed up and thoroughly cleaned with acetone for it to bond with the old poly. Poly is also less expensive, but don't let that be the only factor.<br /><br />I don't know how many screws I used to screw the layers together, but I spaced them about 8 inches apart, throughout the transom area. The through bolts are ran through the tow eye holes, the outboard holes, and the hull and splashwell drains. I also clamped it on the upper edges and braced the lower outer corners with 2x4s hinged so I could push them down and in and lock them in place. That will all stay in place while I sheath the transom in, and when that cures, I will remove the clamps, bolts, and 2x4s and glass those little areas in.

 

[scootyfish]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

Jason, I went to a place today called Eastern Burlap & Trading Co. to price glass mat and resin. The sales guy showed me a variety of different types. The least expensive one was $4.50/yd.,50" wide, but it was just strands pressed together. I saw some woven mat that looked much stronger and was $8.44/yd., 50" wide.<br />The resin was $22.78/gal. I forgot to price the acetone. Are these prices reasonable or expensive?

 

[JasonJ]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

Scooty, the types of fiber you are likely to encounter are mat(the jumbled pattern), cloth(small tight weave), and roving(large tight weave). Most old boat hulls were made of alternate layers of mat and roving. The transoms, stringers, and floors were glassed in with mat and cloth or roving for reinforcement. Mat is good for strength when looks are not important. Roving is good for ultimate strength in key areas like floor-hull or floor-transom juntures. Cloth is good for strength when looks are important. You can just use mat to glass in transoms. stringers, and floors, thats how most of them did it. You can run multiple layers of mat. You cannot run multiple layers or cloth or roving, there must be mat in between layers of cloth or roving. I am using all mat for my project because it gives good strength,, thats how my boat was originally built. Appearance is not important for me because it will all be hidden by paint, structure, or rubberized floor covering. I paid about $20 a gallon for poly resin, and 3.99 a square yard for mat. I bought my stuff from a place that rebuilds boats.

 

[scootyfish]

Re: The 'glassing begins...

Thanx J. for the info. I thought for a project like this inexpensive would be the ticket as long as the finished product was as strong as it should be. If and when I do another project maybe I'll upgrade materials maybe not. I will also look around for better prices before I purchase.