TB5 Chevy 350 Thermostat.

tank1949

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I have an anti-freeze closed cooling v8 that I believe I need to replace thermostat. Will a standard non marine thermostat work. Only antifreeze touches the stat.
 

tank1949

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also, I live in NW Florida and only use boat in warm weather. What is recommended heat range for opening?
 

cyclops222

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Use the automobile part if it will fit & operate correctly. The operating temperature is usually stamped on a thermostat somewhere.
 

tank1949

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I have found 143 and 160s locally. I suspect due to being in a warmer environment, I should install a 143. However, are the sea water cooled vs closed cooled stats. different?
 

Bondo

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I have found 143 and 160s locally. I suspect due to being in a warmer environment, I should install a 143. However, are the sea water cooled vs closed cooled stats. different?
Ayuh,..... As Lou said, use the 160*,....
 

tank1949

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Ayuh,..... As Lou said, use the 160*,....
Thx! I couldn't find any discussion of the best heat range for antifreeze closed cooled systems vs open systems. None of the vendors that I have examined so far differentiate between the heat range of a closed antifreeze system vs closed one. I suspect they were different.
 

Lou C

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I think with a closed system the closer to what would be a normal automotive engine temp the better, a 160 stat in that system will usually run from 160-180* but because it’s a pressurized system it won’t cause localized boiling like it could in an open system. The benefits of warmer running are less water condensation and less fuel dilution in the oil. These are both issues for certain 4 stroke outboards that “make” oil but what it really is happening is water & fuel aren’t burning off in the motor oil. I have experimented with both a 140 and 160 stat in the open cooling in salt water and I found that the 140 took forever to warm up and even after many years of running a 160 here I did not see any significant amounts of mineral build up when I took the heads off 7 years ago. The only place where I saw anything was was the blocked off cyl head ports at the rear of the intake. So at least here in coastal LI I will stick with the 160 & do a de scaling if necessary. My oil analyses show no water or fuel contamination.
 

Scott06

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I think with a closed system the closer to what would be a normal automotive engine temp the better, a 160 stat in that system will usually run from 160-180* but because it’s a pressurized system it won’t cause localized boiling like it could in an open system. The benefits of warmer running are less water condensation and less fuel dilution in the oil. These are both issues for certain 4 stroke outboards that “make” oil but what it really is happening is water & fuel aren’t burning off in the motor oil. I have experimented with both a 140 and 160 stat in the open cooling in salt water and I found that the 140 took forever to warm up and even after many years of running a 160 here I did not see any significant amounts of mineral build up when I took the heads off 7 years ago. The only place where I saw anything was was the blocked off cyl head ports at the rear of the intake. So at least here in coastal LI I will stick with the 160 & do a de scaling if necessary. My oil analyses show no water or fuel contamination.
Wonder onclosed calling if you run a standard 195 stat in the engine if scaling in the heat ex will be more, just moving the issue from block to heat ex
 

cyclops222

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The warmer the engine water. The faster any suspended minerals will build up. On the hotter metal surfaces. Never fails.
 
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